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coolant temperature sensor broke off into head! Need advice!

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Old 06-01-2012, 10:07 AM
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Default coolant temperature sensor broke off into head! Need advice!

Ls1howto torque specs must be wrong, it said 15ftibs, I set the torque wrench to that it never clicked and now its broke off into my head, I'm just going to buy a new coolant sensor and swap it to the passanger side head, but do you think the broke sensor will be a good enough seal and won't leak? Man this sucks.
Old 06-01-2012, 10:52 AM
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The metal part snapped off thought there's nothing to grab on to
Old 06-01-2012, 11:07 AM
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You can try and leave it, or you can drill it out and take it out with an easyh out. Not many other options.....
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Old 06-01-2012, 11:07 AM
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Time for a new set of AFR's...
Old 06-01-2012, 03:06 PM
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I really don't know what to do...
Old 06-01-2012, 03:24 PM
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Yikes... I would have just hand snugged it... brass is unforgiving. I would bet that 10 ft/lb would have be more than enough.

Take it to a mechanic, they can get that out for you no problem.
Old 06-01-2012, 03:49 PM
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thats weird...i torqued mine to that
Old 06-01-2012, 03:55 PM
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That's the bad part lol, iv been a technician for a year and even I am not sure how I'm going to go about fixing this. I thought maybe some one else had done this already. Im just going to leave it there put a new sensor in the passanger head, solder some wire to it, and find the pin in the pcm and re pin it there. Man this sucks.
Old 06-01-2012, 04:20 PM
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damn and i thought i had it bad when i accidentally broke the plastic connector part of mine off the other day.
Old 06-01-2012, 04:30 PM
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i had the same thing happen, we ended up using an easy out and it worked.
Old 06-01-2012, 04:34 PM
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I'm scared to drill into it to be honest, I have no idea how deep I need to go.
Old 06-01-2012, 04:35 PM
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you could start the motor up and let it get a little hot then take a chisel or something and try to move the brass piece out. aluminum expands a lot faster than the brass i believe. just be careful.
Old 06-01-2012, 04:42 PM
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Knowing my luck a piece if metal would fall in the coolant passage.
Old 06-01-2012, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 703 CAMAROSS
I'm scared to drill into it to be honest, I have no idea how deep I need to go.
I use easy outs all the time at work and you don't have to drill that far... just enough for the easy out to get a nice solid bite.
Old 06-01-2012, 05:00 PM
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What size easy out are you guys using?
Old 06-03-2012, 07:29 AM
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Get a reverse drill bit it will turn it out before u go through it. Do it slow so it can grab
Old 06-03-2012, 09:11 AM
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If you're afraid to do it, pull the head and take it to a machine shop. They can get it out no problem. Whenever I put those back in, I just add a little pipe thread putty to the threads and tighten it just snug by hand.
Old 06-03-2012, 10:08 AM
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I'm not pulling the head! No way lol. Just got done putting arp head studs in lol I don't feel like doing that all over again. I'm just going to leave it and move it to the passanger head. I might try taking a chissel and seeing if I can get a bite on it and back it out with a hammer by hitting down. If that works il be so happy, but iv already cut the connector off and soldered some wire to it. I can always just cut it back though and put it back where it was if that happens to work.
Old 06-03-2012, 02:01 PM
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Drill and eazyout should take about 15 min.

You are overthinking this it is basic stuff

Tim
Old 06-03-2012, 07:52 PM
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like was said, drill and easy out and itll take you half hour max since your scared lol. not hard at all


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