Headers/ory, Stall, or Intake?
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 2
From: Westminster, MD
I'm hoping the FTI won't hurt my stock transmission, as long as it stays cool of course. I may need to change the trans fluid a little more often also...I've never changed it in the year I've had the car and it probably has never been changed from the factory since it only has 26k miles on it...still red though, didn't appear to have any brown hues.
Ah touche on the sarcasm 
if you have a gu5 rear i wouldn't bother swapping gears. the actual gains aren't worth the investment, imho. the car may feel much stronger, but real world track results will tell you otherwise.
i'd opt for the full exhaust and tune. i had a 373 gear/4k stall only car (for a min). it sucked. even with DRs it was still a slug on the street. i spun away any chance i had at competing with faster cars. the car went 8.0 @ 81 in the 1/8 all over the rev limiter. tuning is definitely needed if anything just to keep you from getting pissed off every time you want to go wot.
all up to you. for the first round of mods: if you spend a lot of time at the track i'd suggest the stall. if you spend more time on the street i'd suggest full exhaust. slow stalled autos are no fun and i don't care what people tell you, bolt-on stalled cars are hardly quicker than stock stall cars from any roll over 20 mph. my bolt-on stall car ultimately went 12.0 @ 111, so it's not like i had a dud.
i'd opt for the full exhaust and tune. i had a 373 gear/4k stall only car (for a min). it sucked. even with DRs it was still a slug on the street. i spun away any chance i had at competing with faster cars. the car went 8.0 @ 81 in the 1/8 all over the rev limiter. tuning is definitely needed if anything just to keep you from getting pissed off every time you want to go wot.
all up to you. for the first round of mods: if you spend a lot of time at the track i'd suggest the stall. if you spend more time on the street i'd suggest full exhaust. slow stalled autos are no fun and i don't care what people tell you, bolt-on stalled cars are hardly quicker than stock stall cars from any roll over 20 mph. my bolt-on stall car ultimately went 12.0 @ 111, so it's not like i had a dud.
so what youre saying is a bone stock car vs a car with just a good converter (nothing else) will be a good race from a roll??? i cant see that being remotely true. the stalled car will pull away much quicker and stay in its power band the entire time thus beating the stock car by a few lengths.
I would say go with a high stall and DRs first you will get more out of them. Then get a wet nitrous kit and forget the rest.
I’ve been running a Yank SS3600 for 10 years and with MT DRs the otherwise stock car turns 8.2 in hot weather. With a 60 shot it turns 7.6.
The circle D converters while giving decent ET results are eating transmissions quickly at our local track.
I’ve been running a Yank SS3600 for 10 years and with MT DRs the otherwise stock car turns 8.2 in hot weather. With a 60 shot it turns 7.6.
The circle D converters while giving decent ET results are eating transmissions quickly at our local track.
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
From: Visalia, Ca
I'm running a Circle D 5c on a stock trans, no problems here. Once in a while it'll bounce, but that's usually after a few hot laps. Just make sure your trans stays cool and you *should* be fine.
Overall, it made the most difference both from a roll and a dig vs any of the bolt-ons I did before installing it.
Overall, it made the most difference both from a roll and a dig vs any of the bolt-ons I did before installing it.
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Omg... Everyone makes it so complicated.
Call PTC out of Alabama.. Order the converter they have for 550$ shipped with a cooler. I recommend a 3600-4000. You can do this swap yourself or a normal shop would charge roughly 150-250$.
It will be custom built for your needs unlike most of these that you would buy off the shelf.
That is BY FAR going to net you better gains.. Hell full exhaust and an intake still wouldn't net you the gains just the converter would.
Gears are a waste performance wise.. And lol on a converter killing a trans.. Get a cooler and don't hot lap it over and over. heat kills the trans.
Call PTC out of Alabama.. Order the converter they have for 550$ shipped with a cooler. I recommend a 3600-4000. You can do this swap yourself or a normal shop would charge roughly 150-250$.
It will be custom built for your needs unlike most of these that you would buy off the shelf.
That is BY FAR going to net you better gains.. Hell full exhaust and an intake still wouldn't net you the gains just the converter would.
Gears are a waste performance wise.. And lol on a converter killing a trans.. Get a cooler and don't hot lap it over and over. heat kills the trans.
Omg... Everyone makes it so complicated.
Call PTC out of Alabama.. Order the converter they have for 550$ shipped with a cooler. I recommend a 3600-4000. You can do this swap yourself or a normal shop would charge roughly 150-250$.
It will be custom built for your needs unlike most of these that you would buy off the shelf.
That is BY FAR going to net you better gains.. Hell full exhaust and an intake still wouldn't net you the gains just the converter would.
Gears are a waste performance wise.. And lol on a converter killing a trans.. Get a cooler and don't hot lap it over and over. heat kills the trans.
Call PTC out of Alabama.. Order the converter they have for 550$ shipped with a cooler. I recommend a 3600-4000. You can do this swap yourself or a normal shop would charge roughly 150-250$.
It will be custom built for your needs unlike most of these that you would buy off the shelf.
That is BY FAR going to net you better gains.. Hell full exhaust and an intake still wouldn't net you the gains just the converter would.
Gears are a waste performance wise.. And lol on a converter killing a trans.. Get a cooler and don't hot lap it over and over. heat kills the trans.
I can't believe people are saying get full exhaust over a stall...
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
This thread REALLY has me wanting a stall now, and it was really something I had always considered a later project...
However...
I drive 45 mins on the highway everyday to work. And someone said before that it'll screw me on the highway.... I've never had a stall so I don't have a huge knowledge of its low rpm effects.
All this talk on stalls has me thinking I can get a helluva bang for my buck... Just someone let me know if this would be a bad decision for me given my usual driving pattern
However...
I drive 45 mins on the highway everyday to work. And someone said before that it'll screw me on the highway.... I've never had a stall so I don't have a huge knowledge of its low rpm effects.
All this talk on stalls has me thinking I can get a helluva bang for my buck... Just someone let me know if this would be a bad decision for me given my usual driving pattern
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 2
From: Westminster, MD
Highway mpg's are not affected by a stall for the most part. If you're cruising at say, 55mph the converter is locked and rpm's will be the same as they would be stock, or at least before the stall. If you have to slow down the converter may unlock and that would hurt mileage until it locks again but you simply play with the throttle (keep steady and let off) to get it to lock again as long as you're over whatever the lockup speed is set for which is part of the tune. Gas mileage in the city or on roads under the lockup speed then your mpg will suffer a bit. Easy acceleration though you can still shift pretty early. My custom 3600 will shift at 2k from 1-2 and 2-3 like 2300
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
ory is off road Y pipe.
Good luck if you get a stall!
