Poly motor and trams mounts...
Poly is also a lot less susceptible to dry-rotting out, so the overall longevity should be significantly longer - which is a pretty big plus, as swapping engine mounts is about as much fun as changing spark plugs with one hand and an adjustable wrench in the middle of a tornado.
Poly mounts flex less, meaning you transfer power to the ground better. It also limits how much the engine and transmission can twist during acceleration, due to the opposite reaction of the engine generating torque. A lot of 6-speed cars with stock engine and transmission mounts wind up with the shifter moving all over the place during hard acceleration.
Poly is also a lot less susceptible to dry-rotting out, so the overall longevity should be significantly longer - which is a pretty big plus, as swapping engine mounts is about as much fun as changing spark plugs with one hand and an adjustable wrench in the middle of a tornado.
Poly is also a lot less susceptible to dry-rotting out, so the overall longevity should be significantly longer - which is a pretty big plus, as swapping engine mounts is about as much fun as changing spark plugs with one hand and an adjustable wrench in the middle of a tornado.
to that. I will never do it again either, will just pay someone to do it next time! The passenger side was not bad and I did not mind removing the alt and steering shaft out of the way for the driverside, it fought me something fierce to get lined up. 
Yep that is what Ill be doing, not tackling that with 1 7/8 headers in the way..
I left my LTs on, however I have UMI Tubular-K with tubular engine stands for the motor mounts. I had a fair amount of room to work with, even with headers left on, it was just a bitch to line up!
This is what I am going to, on poly MM and rubber trans now, but my 1 7/8 ARH are still hitting when I get a good bite from a dig, and its tripping the knock sensors. How would you describe that setup? Obviously know there is gonna be more vibrations and noise but I dont have to drive it everyday, just when I want to.
Another plus to this setup is Im going to go duals, and this would let me tuck that setup very close to the body.
Another plus to this setup is Im going to go duals, and this would let me tuck that setup very close to the body.
I love it, myself. I bought a pony car, not a sports car. If I wanted power & comfort, I would have went with the CTSV or Vette. I want to "feel" the car and feel in tune with it. This set-up gives you that.
If you're going duals, and want GOOD clearance, I recommend going to an exhaust shop to install them. Spend the 50 bucks and let them do their thing. We trimmed and welded here and there and I can tell you with my duals I have better clearance than I did with my TSP Y.
It's got some vibe at idle... like "inside the door" buzzs and stuff, but it isn't BAD at all. Once you take off it goes away instantly. If you have a cam, you won't just hear the lope anymore. You'll feel it.
I love it, myself. I bought a pony car, not a sports car. If I wanted power & comfort, I would have went with the CTSV or Vette. I want to "feel" the car and feel in tune with it. This set-up gives you that.
If you're going duals, and want GOOD clearance, I recommend going to an exhaust shop to install them. Spend the 50 bucks and let them do their thing. We trimmed and welded here and there and I can tell you with my duals I have better clearance than I did with my TSP Y.
I love it, myself. I bought a pony car, not a sports car. If I wanted power & comfort, I would have went with the CTSV or Vette. I want to "feel" the car and feel in tune with it. This set-up gives you that.
If you're going duals, and want GOOD clearance, I recommend going to an exhaust shop to install them. Spend the 50 bucks and let them do their thing. We trimmed and welded here and there and I can tell you with my duals I have better clearance than I did with my TSP Y.
Do you have good clearance on the torque arm? my stock one always hit it, so I couldn't really lift the car.
