Not entirely sure if this is where this goes, but anyway...

Drove the car home yesterday, cut it off to move the truck so I could wash the car. Got back in the car and it wouldn't start. Won't turn over. Starter makes no noise at all. No clicks or anything from it.

Had starter checked today, it's fine. Check all the wires leading to it that are near the headers and everything seems okay. Reinstalled starter, still nothing.

When I turn the key on, like I would to just roll up my windows or something, EVERYTHING works. Fuel pump primes, radio comes on, dash lights come on, headlights work, blinkers work.

THERE IS NO SECURITY LIGHT. Clutch switch is in position, and not throwing a code.

Most of what I've seen is on LT1 cars, and even then people are so back and forth on what means what.

I currently have an intermittently failing left blinker that started a couple days ago, and my cruise control works, but sometimes stops working for just a second when I use my turn signal. I don't know if this is related. Also in the past I have gotten in the car, depressed the clutch pedal, turned the key, and nothing. It starts right up once I release the pedal and do it all again though.

What do you guys think?

 

id start simple like ignition relay..thats what fixed mine

 

I've been swapping relays around like crazy. Unless all my 7236 relays were bad, that's not the issue.

 

I personally think it could very well be the ignition switch, having zero responce to your ignition while your fuel pump primes leads me to believe it's not getting told to spark. It could also be a computer issue (ECU), and without your VATS alarm light not responding, it doesn't sound like the issue. Easiest thing would be to use a test light on your ignition coils and see if they are sparking, or just pull out the plug and see if it sparks while you try the ignition. I really am leaning toward ignition swtich given the symptoms, but computer failure/shorts could lead to similar problems.

 

So the ignition switch signals both the ignition system and the starter? The engine isn't even trying to spin.

 

the ig switch is not reading the key chip........get a new one

 

The ignition switch is the device that relays the starter, electrical distribution, fuel and other electrical components to work as it recognizes when the car should be "on". If it is bad, it will refuse to tell the system what and where should be working, including telling the motor when to turn over.

Here is what wiki said:
An Ignition (or starter) switch is a switch in the control system of an internal combustion engined vehicle that activates the main electrical systems for the vehicle. Besides providing power to the ignition system components (the starter solenoid and ignition related components such as the engine control unit, spark coil and distributor) it also usually switches on power to many "accessories" (radio, power windows, etc.).
The ignition system is used to ignite the fuel-air mixture in the engine.
The starter system is the ignition system, plus the battery, and starter switch, relay, solenoid & electric starter motor.
The ignition switch usually requires a key be inserted that works a lock built into the switch mechanism. It is frequently combined with the starter switch which activates the starter motor.

 

This exact thing happened to me last month, every detail is exactly the same. Only thing I didn't notice was if the security light was blinking on the dash or if the security was showing in my gauge cluster. I checked every fuse, swapped all the relays, opened the relays up to see if they fried, found nothing. I disconnected the battery that night and pushed my car into it's spot for the night and started my many hour search on tech to figure out what to look for.

I came up with Vats, or ignition switch. I checked the ignition switch to see if it was loose and out of adjustment since I had the column out about 5 times a month earlier. Also had the lock cylinder out multiple times so maybe the fires were messed up. Found nothing wrong. I then read about bypassing the vats. I didn't have a resistor so I did what another member did and cut the connector off of another lock cylinder I had and electrical taped each wire end to either side of the resistor on my spare key. Reconnected the battery and bypassed vats and used my other key and car fired right up. Then took the bypass out and reconnected the vats wire like it originally was and the car fired up that way to. So I could not get the problem to happen again so I didn't fix anything. Now I am paranoid to turn my car off and leave it running even when I fill my tank. I cannot figure it out, and with it not happening again, cannot fix what I cannot find.

But... every detail about everything working, no starter clicks, relay swapping, fuel pump engaging, exactly what my car did. I guess just disconnect the battery like I did, or bypass vats and see if it fires up. I wish I could give you a definate answer.

mark jr.

 

I'll try a key first, since it's easiest, and I could use a spare ignition key anyway. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

But I'm heading to Pensacola for the weekend, so I'll get started back on this monday.

 

My car is doing the same thing including the left blinker. I didn't see if you ever figured out what it was. Can you give us an update?

Thanks
Justin

 

If you disconnect the battery without that resistor in there it will do it again

 

waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaiiiiiit for it

 

What ???? LOL