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Seized Pilot Bearing

Old Oct 11, 2012 | 05:49 PM
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Default Seized Pilot Bearing

Since it's in the crank, I assume it belongs here...

The pilot bearing in my engine will NOT come out. I used the slide hammer tool and it wouldn't budge. I had a real mechanic (not me, lol) take a look at it and he said he's never seen that tool not work on something.

I checked on search and I found someone hit it with a dremel at 12 and 6, I tried that but the dremel tool doesn't want to cut through it, at least not very easily. I got through the bearing portion, it's about half as think as it was before on both sides.

Any other recommendations?

I'm putting a Viper T56 (with input shaft) in my swap, so I need the old bearing out so I can use an oversized bushing.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 06:50 PM
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Heat first, then this type of puller:

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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 11:25 PM
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That's the exact tool I tried.

Wouldn't heat cause the bearing to expand?
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 02:03 AM
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Bread and any bolt remotely close to the same size as the ID of the bearing...


this is how I do it....works every time.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Vicinity
That's the exact tool I tried.

Wouldn't heat cause the bearing to expand?
You could try one of the new freeze sprays that's used to loosen stuck parts.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by 99Bluz28
You could try one of the new freeze sprays that's used to loosen stuck parts.
That is actually a damn good idea. I'm gonna go get a can of compressed and break this f**ker out.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 10:57 AM
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The tool didn't work for me, either.
The bread method could work, as long as the punch tool seals the ID of the bearing. Otherwise, you're only going to squirt bread at yourself, through the unsealed ID of the bearing.
A quick shot of nitrous (or, the freeze spray) would allow you to remove the bearing with your gloved finger.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by gMAG
The tool didn't work for me, either.
The bread method could work, as long as the punch tool seals the ID of the bearing. Otherwise, you're only going to squirt bread at yourself, through the unsealed ID of the bearing.
A quick shot of nitrous (or, the freeze spray) would allow you to remove the bearing with your gloved finger.
Really? I picked up the freeze stuff but my guy who has the tool was busy and couldn't meet me. Were you able to just yank it out? I didn't think it dropped the temperature that much.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 11:32 AM
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There are more than a few threads on knocking out the oil plug using the bread/grease method.
Use a puller and maybe a dremel.

http://www.jasperengines.com/pdf/57L...gBushingTB.pdf
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 12:28 PM
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Hit it up with the freeze spray, worked wonders for me!
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Vicinity
Really? I picked up the freeze stuff but my guy who has the tool was busy and couldn't meet me. Were you able to just yank it out? I didn't think it dropped the temperature that much.
Sorry my friend. I wasn't accurate with my statement.
The shot of nitrous allowed me to pull out the bearing with a gloved finger.
The freeze spray required me to still use the tool. It did come out, though.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by gMAG
Sorry my friend. I wasn't accurate with my statement.
The shot of nitrous allowed me to pull out the bearing with a gloved finger.
The freeze spray required me to still use the tool. It did come out, though.
Ah, damn. Gonna try it anyway, though. If it don't work, I'll just run to Autozone and pickup their tool.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 06:26 PM
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It didn't yank out, but with the tool it came out in two blows. That freeze stuff works great.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by garys 68
There are more than a few threads on knocking out the oil plug using the bread/grease method.
Use a puller and maybe a dremel.

you have to hit it pretty hard to knock out the oil plug... it installs like a freeze plug...

with the bread... you just tap it lightly... it doesnt take much usually...
and if it doesnt want to budge, then you usually have to cut it out...

if its seized hard enough, it may have gotten hot and essentially soft welded itself to the engine....it will come out.. but you'll have to really gut it down and then break it out in pieces.

Last edited by soundengineer; Oct 13, 2012 at 07:52 AM.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 08:44 PM
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i bought a blind hole bearing puller from harbor freight and it worked like a charm. my pilot bearing seized while the engine was running and blew up. it knicked up the bellhousing real bad and all kind of pieces were floating around the clutch assembly lol. all that was left was the outer race and it was completely fubar. that $40 tool set i bought literally took less than 30 seconds to remove what was left of the bearing. i'll never try another method again.

glad to hear you got it removed. that is the kind of **** that's a real pita.
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 01:46 AM
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Slam the slide hammer as hard as you can while cursing.

That's how I got my siezed pilot bearing out.
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 01:51 AM
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Welded a long rod inside the center of the bearing. Welded a flap of metal at the other end of the rod and wapped it with a hammer. Cake.
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 07:20 AM
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Yeah, just not sure which would bother me more, the metal plug in the oil pan, or the bread in there

Originally Posted by soundengineer
you have to hit it pretty hard to knock out the oil plug... it installs like a freeze plug...

with the bread... you just tap it lightly... it doesnt take much usually...
and if it doesnt want to budge, then you usually have to cut it out...

if its seized hard enough, it may have gotten hot and essentially soft welded itself to the engine....it will come out.. but you'll have to really gut it down and then break it out in pieces.
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 10:33 AM
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Where are you guys buying this freeze spray? It it something a parts store would carry? I never heard of this stuff until now.

I wonder if freon would work just as well.
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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 11:02 AM
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these cheapasses are prob turning a can of keyboard cleaner upside down and spraying it.
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