Polished valve covers for ls1
#1
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Polished valve covers for ls1
I seen alot of talk about the Holley valve covers but I don't want to have to do any fabing to get them to work with my stock coils. What's the best polished valve covers that won't break the bank? That i can throw on and have my brackets and coil packs bolt up to.I don't wanna polish my stock ones
#2
Proform: http://www.proformparts.com/category...S_Valve_Covers
You will need the coil bracket too, but they don't cost much. Choose the correct coil size.
You will need the coil bracket too, but they don't cost much. Choose the correct coil size.
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anyone? are there any good polished or chrome vavle covers besides the holly's that under 200 dollars that seal good. i want to be able to bolt right up and not have to fab anything
#6
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I realize that you've stated that you don't want to polish, but it's not that big of a deal.
Over time, they will fade from dirt & heat. It's easy enough to re-polish.
A polishing wheel & some very fine grit...then some metal polish applied with the polishing wheel, will get you this...
Over time, they will fade from dirt & heat. It's easy enough to re-polish.
A polishing wheel & some very fine grit...then some metal polish applied with the polishing wheel, will get you this...
#7
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Proform: http://www.proformparts.com/category...S_Valve_Covers
You will need the coil bracket too, but they don't cost much. Choose the correct coil size.
You will need the coil bracket too, but they don't cost much. Choose the correct coil size.
Cheapest aftermarket quality ones I have seen that have an option for no coil mount brackets.. Next option is the ebay and they leak.
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#8
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I realize that you've stated that you don't want to polish, but it's not that big of a deal.
Over time, they will fade from dirt & heat. It's easy enough to re-polish.
A polishing wheel & some very fine grit...then some metal polish applied with the polishing wheel, will get you this...
Over time, they will fade from dirt & heat. It's easy enough to re-polish.
A polishing wheel & some very fine grit...then some metal polish applied with the polishing wheel, will get you this...
#9
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I'll reply as soon as I can locate the info.
EDIT:This process is pretty much what I did. Any good metal polish can be used on the second step.
In addition to the grinder buffing wheel, I used a smaller buffing wheel, & a pointed buffing 'bit', both on the end of a drill. Of the smaller wheel, it needs to have a large enough diameter to reach the base of those tall protrusions, when the wheel is turned somewhat sideways.
The small wheel gets into the tight spots, like the bases of the bolt holes, & other protrusions. The large wheel on the grinder can finish the flatter portions.
Because it's aluminum, it can be easy to overdo one area and cause valleys to be created, if you don't move the wheel. You can also clearcoat them, afterward.
Eastwood should have all of the materials.
EDIT:This process is pretty much what I did. Any good metal polish can be used on the second step.
In addition to the grinder buffing wheel, I used a smaller buffing wheel, & a pointed buffing 'bit', both on the end of a drill. Of the smaller wheel, it needs to have a large enough diameter to reach the base of those tall protrusions, when the wheel is turned somewhat sideways.
The small wheel gets into the tight spots, like the bases of the bolt holes, & other protrusions. The large wheel on the grinder can finish the flatter portions.
Because it's aluminum, it can be easy to overdo one area and cause valleys to be created, if you don't move the wheel. You can also clearcoat them, afterward.
Eastwood should have all of the materials.
Last edited by gMAG; 02-16-2013 at 12:21 AM.