Hey guys I have been doing a lot of research on catch cans for a few hours now and I need some advice. I've seen a lot of people highly recommend catch cans such as the revxtreme, but then I can't find anyone who sells them and a few post on here saying a lot of the guys who build the various cans are out of business now. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place but the only can I can find is the Norris can from WS6store. Any help guys is very much appreciated. I'm not too overly concerned with price but more concerned with it working. Thanks.

 

I love my Norris catch can. Comes with everything you need, excellent instructions (not that I needed them, but clear and concise none the less) and was priced great.

Norris... can't go wrong.

 

I have always ran the Norris can also and have always had good luck with.

This year for the turbo set up I am going to try on the MightMouse catch cans. They seem pretty nice.

 

Just installed the Norris can a few days ago and am digging it. Simple as pie to install. I would suggest re-working the PCV system while you are at it.

 

How should I re-work it if i install a Norris can. I think that's the can I'll get.

 

Where can u buy the Norris kit?

 

Mike Norris makes the can. Google it

 

I have run the Norris can for years and it is a quality piece. I actually just purchased a second one and am getting it powder coated for a custom dual can setup I have been making.

Should be able to find it on the Norris website, and i know for sure that WS6Store is selling them.

 

The stock PCV system is junk pre-shaped hard plastic tubing that is prone to cracking/breaking. I bought some 3/8 fuel line, the new style PCV valve and some brass fittings to fab up what is a much better system in my opinion than the stock one.

I used:

From Advanced Auto:
Dorman valve cover grommet #42056
Dorman 90* male elbow #785-430
Around 4' of 3/8" 30R6 fuel line
About 3 inches of 3/4 heater hose
2 worm clamps that fit the heater hose
New style PCV valve #12572717

From Home Depot:
SharkBite PEX 1/2"x1/2"x1/2" brass tee connector
Watts brass hose barb #LFA-300A 3/8" ID x 1/2" MIP

All said and done, about $30. I have pictures of all the parts over on my blog at:
http://carblog.signaturepcservices.c...he-pcv-system/
If you want a visual of what all the parts look like and how I put the valve together. Then you basically run it like the old one was hooked up, only with better parts. The grommet and 90* fitting go to the back of the driver's side valve cover, run the hose behind the intake, put the tee on and a short piece of hose to the rear of the passenger valve cover then another piece into the remaining tee connection and along the fuel rail toward the front, insert the new PCV valve setup then another short piece to the top of the catch can. Then a short piece from the side fitting on the can to the intake.

This should pretty much be the end of having oil in your TB and intake.

 

Ebay. $20

 

$36

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLEMISHED-Ba...fa206c&vxp=mtr

 

Is a dual can setup better?

 

i dont think it would make much of a difference other than you wouldnt have to drain them as much

 

So what's the purpose of some of the dual cans I've seen? Just trying to figure it out. I know there is one line that has the valve in it and there is one that just goes straight from the cover. If you have a single can that has just the one line going to it wouldn't the other one that doesn't go to a can just completely defeat the purpose of having a catch can in the first place?

 

I could drive a year before I would need to empty the can. It holds a lot. And anyways if you fill it, you have bigger probems. The reason I am running a second is because When opening my TB, the vac port that is at the top of the TB is still getting some oil vapor going through and getting oil in my intake. I can see this because when I cleaned the intake it was nice and light grey and now it's orange w/ oil directly at that opening in the intake. The first can is still collecting oil between the valve and the lower intake port. So the second can will now go between the front of the pass valve cover, and the point at the top of the TB (fresh air side) I am hoping that this will eliminate what is left.

So how I have mine set up is:

-Back of driver valver cover to pcv valve, pcv valve to the top of can 1
-Side of can 1 to bottom of lower intake.

-Front of pass valve cover to top of can 2
-Side if can 2 to top of throttle body

I have spent many hours over the years reading all over the net, made posts, tried numerous ways and I have drastically reduced the oil problem in my car. This way is just the last point that I have found that could uses some help. There are some threads on here about dual can setups. I could have purchased a dual setup but I like the Norris can the best so I went with another one. They are at the powder coater now so they will match and look better soon. This was just cut up / bracket mock up. I do consume some oil still and that is expected. I did a heads / cam change and I drive my car hard so it's expected. I have read a ton of posts on people saying swap to an LS6 valley cover, then a lot still have the same problem, just in a reduced capacity. Hopefully this way will work out for me, I will just have to wait till April / May when it comes out of hibernation and test it. Some need a dual setup, some only need 1, some valley cover changes work. All cars are different.

I noticed that the newer Norris can is about 1/4" shorter than the old version.


Here is a thread on a dual can setup w/ a nice diagram that illustrates what I wrote out above that roninsonic made awhile back.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ll-w-pics.html

 

I really like the Norris can as well. I just feel like I'm defeating the purpose of having the can if I don't have another one for the line that runs directly from the front of the passenger valve cover the throttle body. Can you just merge both of the lines together before going into the one fitting on the top and then split the one line coming out of it to fit both the throttle body and the intake ports?

 

on my old setup i ran my pcv and pass valve cover to 1 vented catch can. my tb hose barb is plugged so no pressure comes out of there. i guess the ideal setup is to run your pcv to an oil seperator or catch can of some sort then run it back into the intake so it can vacuum out the crank case without putting oil back into it but thats really hard to do. and then you vent your valve cover/covers into 1 vented catch can. i just prefer not to have that much clutter in the engine bay and i dont want any oil going back into the system so i put one vented can in there and run my pcv line along with both of my valve covers to it. not ideal but works.

kinda like this with a vented catch can (although it say unvented)

 

The ws6store sells the norris catch can. I bought a red one. It is very nice. I like it alot

 

http://www.andersonperformance.net/DSCN4836ww.jpg

This picture was posted from a previous PCV catch can thread. The installation seems relatively simple, and effective. I am going to install the LS6 valley cover, which eliminates the need for a "dirty side" catch can, and just a "clean side" (VC to TB) catch can.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...outing-ok.html

Heres a link to the thread if you want to read up on the PCV system and why to use 2 cans.

 

Wrong. I've got an LS6 valley cover and still drain my catchcan....