Running w/o damper?
If you're really broke, I'm sure you could get a used stock crank pulley for cheap or free. Otherwise, go with SLP/Proform or ASP for under $200.
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I see no reason for Schwanke to mislead me in this as I may potentially purchase the parts from them. They are a extremely reputable company and build a lot of ls1 road race engines . I was hoping someone from Lingenfelter might chime in on this.

(As even the MOST perfectly balanced build STILL produces {2nd order?} crank harmonics just due to the nature of the cylinder firing pulses, which could eventually/potentially crack even a forged crank.
)But I guess if they say it happens.
If any shop told me to run any engine without a damper, it'd be the last thing they told me. I'd turn right around and walk out never to consider them a "proper" shop again.
Suffice to say, there's plenty of reasons that a damper is required on an engine.
As you're on a tight budget, at minimum run a stock damper and keep your revs below 5,500 RPM.
I see no reason for Schwanke to mislead me in this as I may potentially purchase the parts from them. They are a extremely reputable company and build a lot of ls1 road race engines . I was hoping someone from Lingenfelter might chime in on this.
I would tend to agree with Paul far as never going back to a vendor who said such a thing.
Last edited by 96capricemgr; Mar 10, 2013 at 02:17 PM.

Also talked to Jason Haines from Lingefelter and this is what I got back....
Needing a damper depends on the engine. What RPM range. The higher the RPM range (the broader the RPM range) the more likely you are to need it. For drag racing it becomes less of an issue since you don't tend to sit at one RPM for long. For durability applications it is more important (circle track/road racing/marine).
The more horsepower you make, the more likely you are to need it.
The heavier your driveline is, the more you will need it.
We did a test for GM during the ASA program when they were going to switch over to the LS6 engines (just before ASA went out of business). On a lightweight circle track car with a small diameter, lightweight clutch (low inertia) and lightweight transmission etc. on a basically stock LS6 engine (with headers making a little over 400 hp and going to 6400 RPM) a damper was found not to be needed.
The heavier the driveline and the more hp and rpm range you have, the more likely you are to need one.
Quote:
HOWEVER!!!! I have a heavy steel driveline, stock steel flywheel, and i sit at 6200 rpms till my tires blow sooooooo...... ATI Damper it is! When it comes to the safety of my motor i will errrr with the side of caution. One missed race and i could be out of running for my professional license, and thats the dream so i consider the 400$ as a insurance premium for my dreams..plus i just won 500$ in the weekly poker game
Guess god wanted me to have one
Cost: If you can't afford a balancer, you shouldn't be trying to build/drive a race car.
Space: So, you'd cut off the crank snout to save space?
Mass: It's this very mass that reduces harmful harmonics for the crankshaft.
if you can't swing a damper your racing career will be short and heartbreakingI can get the idea of reducing rotating mass. I have thought of putting mine on a lathe a cutting down the ac pulley since I don't have ac. However I can't see the point of investing in a motor and not having the insurance of a nice damper.
Last edited by 1320Chicken; Mar 17, 2013 at 08:24 PM.






