Hey guys my mods are in sig and so far I have almost full bolt ons by my standards. The only thing I can think of besides a fast would be an EWP.

I had the chance to get one but I drive back and forth from college every couple of months which is 200 miles and the last thing I need is one failing on me. Plus 500 for a used one and 5-7whp is hard to justify.

The I'd like to keep the motor in the car stock internals.I've got friends with cammed cars and while its fun I'd like to keep mine on the low key and see where I can get with a good bolt on LS6 setup.

I know a FAST on a stock ls1 isnt worth much but then again I dont have a stock ls1 long block, people still want stupid amount of money for FAST 90/90 setup but I figure if I wait I can find a good deal and or just get a cheaper 78mm FAST and port it to 85.

Whats everyone's thoughts?

Oh and btw I'm working on a copy of the Chrs1313 ram air so that should also be done this weekend....

 

Do you already have a LS6 intake? If so I would just keep that since you are only staying with bolt on mods. You might gain a few hp with a FAST, but not enough to justify the cost IMO

I'm curious about your Chris1313 copy. Do you have pics, or can you explain it a little? I'm installing my SSRA today myself

 

unless you plan on adding decent heads and a cam i wouldnt bother with a fast on a bolt on car for what the cost vs. hp is. save the money and put it elsewhere.

 

A bolt on ls6 car can do well, but it's going to cost a lot more than just camming it and enjoying the car

In your shoes I would start piecing together stuff for a cam swap and then toss in a smallish cam.

You can get a decent price for your ls6 stuff to make it even cheaper.

 

Yes the car is an 02 so it came with one and I just carried it over to the ls6 motor. Also I just went under the car and took the measurements, my box ended up being around 15.25 wide and the hole at the bottom is 3.5" evenly tapered to 1.25-1.4" at the top. Chris system is about 1.5 with the ac but I used a little thicker alum. I just need to figure out a top plate to keep it sealed and anchored to the rad support. I'll hopefully get that figured out over the Easter weekend.


Well it isnt exactly just a bolt on ls1 but then again I cant find much info on people putting a fast on a bolt on c5 z06 or cts-v so I'm at a loss. I know hiossilver gained a bit with his but he also has 1.8 rockers and some other little things.

Ya I know what you're saying but to me there's something about having a car that looks and sounds like a bolt on car but can keep up with a cammed one.

My ls6 put down 370 on a mustang dyno through an Auto. At that time it had BBK 1-3/4 lt's and a mac catback 3". Now its an m6 with bassani td's and ARH 1-7/8" tubes. I'd expect it to put down around 390 on that same dyno now.

So I'm just trying to get all the "free" hp I can out of it without delving into the engine. I think if I find a fast 78 for a deal I'll pick it up port it to 85 and have pretty much a 90 at a much cheaper price, slap an 85mm Prof Product TB on it and let her fly with a new tune of course.

 

You can easily sell your LS6 manifold for $300 all day. I wound up doing that and buying a fast 90/90 for $600. $200 investment doesn't seem bad if it comes with throttle body.

 

If your ls6 intake is in good condition i'll buy it

 

Hey red. I gained 13rwhp and almost equal tq at peak and almost 20 in places threw the middle with a fast 90 that I ported. This is over my ls6 intake that I had also ported and modified the tb on. You are far better off with a full bolt-on ls6 vs a cam no matter what some will tell you.

Most all of my mods I have did @ separate times. The intake changes were done on the dyno. The rockers I did at a separate time but I also made a change to a fast 102 then. The fast 102 is not worth the extra cost to you over the 90 or 92. Don't fool with a 78, it's not worth it.

 

That depends on the goals and budget for the car.

More than one way to skin a cat, but the ls6 cam leaves a lot on the table for a simple swap and a couple hundred bucks with a couple more for springs.

 

If your dead set on bolt ons only then go for the Fast. Your almost to your limit on bolt ons so what you add won't be a huge difference but every little bit counts in the bolt on game. Plus like it was said before you can sell off your stock ls6 intake & ported TB and not be out too much toward the fast & 92mm TB. Grab some suspension mods too! All the power in the world isn't worth beans if you can't keep the tires planted.

 

I would say just go with a ported LS6 intake and the rest of the money should go to suspension mods. Thats just my opinion. If you ever decide to go boost or maybe swap out the heads for some better flowing ones then thats when you could go with a FAST Intake.

 

Doesn't matter the budget. A cam/springs will cost him more. That would be near $1000 buy the time he got everything as I would shy away from used cams. He could watch on here and get a used fast 90 for ~$700 then sell his ls6 intake netting him about $400 in the fast of which he will need for the cam later down the road. I have outran lots of h/c cars with a simple smooth idleing ls6 just like he has. His next mod should be like a Circle D converter or another reputable converter in the 4000-4400 range. If he can get the car about 200lb lighter with a dr on it that thing should run bottom 11's and drive really good w/o all the lopey crap.

Then a udp and a ewp. With a little more weight reduction I could see a auto full bolt-on ls6 running in the `10's pretty easily since he would holeshot me pretty good.

 

Thanks guys, Doug, the auto has been gone a long time lol. I toasted the 2-3 clutches and decided I wanted to have fun on the street more so I converted the car to a t56. I know its not winning me 1.4 races but overall its more fun on the street and was def faster than the auto with a stock stall. Not that dyno number mean everything but with the less parasitic loss of the t56 and the few bolt ons is why I'd guesstimate it at 390... I dont have any dyno grpahs of the new arh's. But when i got in the car I could immediately tell the car pulled harder from 3500 on up than it did with BBK 1-3/4.

@ Thunderstruck. I know a cam would put me way up in the hp rankings but as hio said I like having a stock idle and keeping up with a cam only ls1.

Where is anyone finding a fast 90/90 with a tb for 600? Lol i would be all over that. My buddy just got a 92 off craigslist for 500... but thats a once ina lifetime thing lol. The reason I was thinking about a 78 is its cheaper and it seems once its hogged out to an 85mm snout its very similar to a 90 in power no?

I had a chance to get a good deal on an EWP a few weeks back but ultimatley turned it down because as I said I drive to and from college for holidays and its 200 miles and I'm a little afraid of the meziere taking a crap on one of those trips leaving me stranded. Oh and the car already runs an ATI underdrive so I dont think itll get much better than that lol.

Car is 3480 now without me in it so its not too bad but could lose a few lbs I have a small sub in the back so taking that out at the track would take off another 40 or so with the box and amp.

Doug, how was the tuning on yours when you switched to the 90? Did you tune it? I know I'll need a retune but I was wondering if its something I could get nailed down with hp tuners just driving around on my own time or if I'd have to take it back in for a wideband and dyno session?

The car hooks very well suprisingly. Wheels are about as light as you can get for 18's (c5 magnesium) and they're wrapped in 295 bfgs. I can break them loose in 1st anywhere. But theres no wheel hop so I dont see it getting better with a torque arm or anything. Its got lca's and relo brackets now on bilsteins. The DR idea is nice but not so nice for a DD to and from school in all weather.

 

brand new cam is $400, springs are $230, sell his stock cam and springs for $200+ if in decent shape...but buying used on the cam is fine and cut the price in half, not a whole lot different than buying a used FAST, in fact I would be more worried about getting a warped intake or other issues than I would buying a used cam

you forgot to factor in a TB with the Fast unless prices really have come down that much

I was also factoring in the high cost/low hp ratio parts like high lift roller rocker and an EWP he would need to be true full bolt on and come close to the power gain from the cam alone

His signature said M6 and I missed where he said after it was an auto. But I still think bottom 11s or high 10s is optimistic for the setup in most cases. Your car is much more of an exception than a rule.



But if a cam is not what he wants that's perfectly fine too, just putting the information out here

 

I screwed us up on the auto thing. I thought red had a stick but but when he listed his hp #'s it said threw a auto.....my bad guys.

There are fast 90 out there for less than 700 w/tb's. I have bought 2 that way....just keep your eyes open. Yes you should retune with it and it should be ported. I could/would port it for you for a couple hundred. It's amazing how far off they are and still make better power than oe stuff. A good tuner will get you upwards of 15-20 hp and tq threw the middle...maybe more since your ls6 is not ported like mine was. I did not tune mine but I do have the software and have tuned on it a bit. If you have access to efi live I would share it with you. But I also have 42lb injectors.

You should be able to run into the 11's with what you have. I went 11.8 @ 119.8 with very basic bolt-ons after the ls6 on 18's w/o a dr. I never even put a dr on the car to run a 11.5 on the 18's. Car was only about 250lb lighter there, thats pretty to do on these cars.

Thunder my car is no exception to the rule. I could duplicate it easily. The only real crazy thing about my car now is the weight. But I know what it did before and during the weight reduction. It's the little things that add up like getting rid of that neck down after the y to go into the cat back.....or better yet modify the y to make it bigger where the pipes come together. Modifying the airbox and I actually made my own carbon airlid with more volume. Now others are starting to catch up to one of my best mods....the clutch.....I was years ahead of the curve there

 

Sorry for any confusion guys, originally when I swapped in the ls6 it had the stock 4l60 e which it promptly destroyed. After that I turned it into an m6. And recently swapped to the Tds and arhs. So with those 3 things I don't see an issue with it gaining 20whp and being at 390 with the above over 370 base line from the auto.

And Thanks Doug, If I go that route ill def take it to the dyno and have them retune for the fast. I was gonna ask you about the clutch. Not that it's something is do before the intake but what clutch do you run? I've heard those quarter master clutches are good for maybe 5k at best before the **** the bed?

Also they say they can't be driven on the street? What all did u need for it and what exact clutch is it

 

I use a tilton 5.5" button clutch. Once you get used to it the thing drives fine. It lasts fine too. I have always used the used clutch discs and plates out of the race car until the year before last. I used a qtr master hydrualic release bearing and their tri lite adapter that I modified. It all sounds pretty hard core but I have dd it since 06 or 07. The worst part is the initial cost. The best parts are how it revs only weighing 17lbs, you always have clutch pedal and it only cost $600 for new discs and plates.

 

No marginal gains of going with a FAST intake over the LS6 intake. That's something the '98-'00 LS1 guys might consider doing. Stick with yours and save the money for something else.

 

I would get one but wouldn't bother with a 78mm. I picked up a good bit of power when I had my ls1. It was just a simple cam only setup then the fast 92 combo went on and it ran so much better.

 

Well again it isnt a stock ls1 motor. Normally I'd agree on a bolt on car but I'd really like to see more results of it being swapped on a bolt on ls6 motor.

Thanks detoxx any numbers before and after the fast? I figure these 2 engines will make similar power but I dont know how the gains would compare seeing as I have a small cam but better heads whereas you had a bigger cam but stock ls1 heads.

Dan-