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Deleting ac, need help.

Old Apr 20, 2013 | 04:22 PM
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Default Deleting ac, need help.

Ok so last summer my AC compressor seized up. No big deal, just cut off the belt. Never really needed it, except on one road trip it was kinda hot, but I have t tops, and the car is barely driven. So I ended up buying the megamouth ssra, that deletes ac. Pulled the lines, condenser, and the canister thing. Compressor is still there, and the box is there. My heat still works, so I'm wondering what else can I remove, yet still have intact heat? Any or the box on the firewall? Also how many bolts hold in the ac compressor, and how much does it weight? Thanks in advance!

And no I'm not gunna replace it, so please no "just keep the ac" comments. I have windows, t tops, and a truck with ac. All my other cars haven't had ac, I can live without it lol.
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 04:48 PM
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There's 4 bolts that go through the compressor to a bracket attached to the block. Remove them. You'd be surprised at the weight of the compressor.

As for the firewall, I'd just leave it alone. I did. I still have those 2 lines that come out of it just capped off. I will NOT lose my heat.
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 05:49 PM
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Are those the 4 that are on the top? I feel like I can see 4. There's nothing I can take off the firewall and retain heat? Oh well, I'll just cap the open ends. Thanks!
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 08:29 PM
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mine is deleted as well. Those lines are going into the heater box, leave them in place and cap off per the Dr....

from recent head/cam swap, left those ac lines just sticking out of the heater box.

Last edited by 03Sssnake; Apr 20, 2013 at 08:36 PM.
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 08:34 PM
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They currently aren't capped, but I'll get caps in the morning.
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 12:09 AM
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I just got done removing the rest of the A/C in my car, I left the heat... It was a pain in the ***, the entire dash had to come out.

Here is some pics of the process.







Here is what comes out.



Cutting the A/C radiator box... Need the back side of the box for the blower motor and duct box mounting.



I used weather stripping to seal the heater box to the block off plate.



Block off plate drilled for heater core pipes.



Block off plate in.



Dash going back together.



Final product.




Last edited by conan; Apr 21, 2013 at 12:20 AM.
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 12:22 AM
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That seems like a ton of work, but it would free up so much space.... Hmmm.
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 07:03 AM
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When my motor comes out I'll attempt that, but holy CRAP what a lot of work!
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 07:44 AM
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How much extra weight do u think was removed? Just curious
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Sail Hatan
That seems like a ton of work, but it would free up so much space.... Hmmm.
It was way more work than I thought it was going to be when I started. I'm glad I did it, and kept the heat. We have a lot of cold mornings and nights here in Park City, UT, so getting rid of the heat was not an option for me but I wanted that space freed up in the engine bay.

This took me about 16 hours from start to finish BTW.

Originally Posted by dr_whigham
When my motor comes out I'll attempt that, but holy CRAP what a lot of work!
Your right, having the engine out helped but the dash removal was the biggest bitch


Originally Posted by rdcamaro
How much extra weight do u think was removed? Just curious
What I just did only saved 5-8 pounds. The big weight savings is removing the compressor, front radiator, ect. I just made more room this time around.
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 09:54 AM
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I did mine with the dash in. You just need a 3 pound hammer and a dremel with a cut off wheel
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by babbage1109
I did mine with the dash in. You just need a 3 pound hammer and a dremel with a cut off wheel
so you basically just cut and beat the hell out of it till its all out?
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 10:31 AM
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Yeah. Lol it's soft so it breaks easily. Then you can remove the rest of the ac portion and cut the edges clean so the plate fits over it. I put weather stripping around the edges so it's sealed up
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by babbage1109
Yeah. Lol it's soft so it breaks easily. Then you can remove the rest of the ac portion and cut the edges clean so the plate fits over it. I put weather stripping around the edges so it's sealed up
simple is best!
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 10:42 AM
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DeF better than pulling the dash! You can undo all the bolts besides one at the top which I just cut and left.
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by babbage1109
DeF better than pulling the dash! You can undo all the bolts besides one at the top which I just cut and left.


That does sound much easier than what I did
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 11:56 AM
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I wouldn't have thought of it by myself. I have a buddy that had done it before the way you did it and the hammer way. The hammer way is much easier if you want to retain heat
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 05:13 PM
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It's a shame that GM stopped offering true 1LE options which DELETE the air and radio right from the factory.
I DEFINITELY would have ordered my hardtop that way if I could have.

I wonder if they are going to offer this FULL delete option on the new, 5th gen Z28 with the LS7 in it, as they seem to be really trying to get it's piggish weight down.
Sadly, it starts soooo damned heavy that even lightened, it is STILL ~500 # more than my car!!
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
It's a shame that GM stopped offering true 1LE options which DELETE the air and radio right from the factory.
I DEFINITELY would have ordered my hardtop that way if I could have.

I wonder if they are going to offer this FULL delete option on the new, 5th gen Z28 with the LS7 in it, as they seem to be really trying to get it's piggish weight down.
Sadly, it starts soooo damned heavy that even lightened, it is STILL ~500 # more than my car!!
yeah that platform is just too damn heavy for starters...The switch to the ATS platform should bring curb weights down to 3400lb range....
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