Guys need a lot of help bought a ws6 that has several cosmetic issues but want to takle the main ones
1. Suspension is really really rough awkward like all shaky i feel every bump, I can't launch the car at all it just shakes violently
2. Someone cut the wire or took out the SES bulb because i could pull codes current and no light??? I see a green wire cut under the radio close to were the center console meets the radio under
3. Have several codes tps sensor, ignition coil 1, AIR (but i remove it so i know thats the reason) a lot of oxygen sensor codes but car has longtubes and dumped exhaust
4. Have an oil leak somewhere maybe rear main or oil pan??
5. Have high idle its an M6 and after driving for a while and putting on neutral it stays around 1200 rpm






Thanks

 

That thing looks hacked! You didn't bring it to a mechanic before you bought it? I would start working on getting your 02 sensors fixed. The rear lower control arms can be had pretty cheap as well.

 

High idle could be a vacuum leak. Id just start fixing things one by one. Hopefully you bought it knowing this was wrong and got it for a good price

 

Wow whoever owned it before sure beat on it with no remorse to upkeep.I see new motor mounts,trans mount,rear control arms/bushings to be replaced.not sure if someone tried to silicone around the bell housing to mask the oil leak.

As mentioned before..hope you got the car cheap..your about to put some overdue maintenance funds into it..and that's just to get it to a point of being driveable..Im sure more will follow the deeper you look.

 

That thing looks roached man, someone ripped on that car ALOT all those bushings look shot and neglected. Silicone around the bell housing is a bad sign of hack mechanic/owner trying to mask a rear main seal or oil pan leak. Also looks like whoever owned it didn't know wiring very well. All I can say is good luck, I hope you got it cheap cause it needs lots of tlc and money.

 

I didnt know all of this until i got it its pretty beat up the price was high considering all of this issues but now i cant really do anything about it just try and fix it i fixed the high idle and a lot of sensors problems with proper maintenance but my concern is the suspension right now

 

Ok fixing it anyone else want to chime in

 

I'd start by pull the transmission and check the rear main seal, and while the trans out see it the pilot bearing needs replacing, along with the clutch, slave cylinder, throw out bearing, and output shaft seal.

 

damn that think was abused and not cared for at all. If I were you, Id do the suspension/mounts first which is going to suck but its worth it. If youre interested, I have a stock rear control arm as well as a trans mount that are both in good shape. PM me if youd like them.

 

1. suspension being bumpy is common but can be helped by new shocks. I have adjustable tokicos with low miles sitting in the garage but not even sure how I would get them to you. $100. note the shocks would help the launch and ride. but this is not a lexus. my upgraded koni/stranos handle better but the ride is still not smooth. the violent shaking is probably just a tranny mount. also have one of them.new stock. I opted to go polyurethane, then stock then polyurethane while chasing vibrations in drivetrain. some are still there. I'm really not just trying to sale parts because honestly I've got a garage full of ws6 parts just sitting in there that I've never posted because I don't have time.
2. not sure about green wire.
3. find a friend with with similar car. its easy to clear codes swap the tps and ignition coil drive a few miles and see if they were actually bad.
if so, replace.
4 oil leak likely rear main, very common just keep it topped off
5. high idle is likely a simple fix there is an adjuster in the throttle cable thats leading back to firewall. the idle will likely fix with a few turns of a screw.

 

for the wiring, i'd hook up a voltmeter to it... with whatever that passive setting is... to try and figure out if it's some sort of power wire (or ground) or if its purpose is to send a digital signal somewhere. i have wires like your chopped green one, but i put them there myself. they were my TPS signal and RPM signal for a nitrous controller. if the key is in ON, but engine not running, you will still get a TPS signal. a lot of the others, like RPM (obviously) you'll need the engine running.

my one and only leaky engine problem wasn't the rear main seal, but the galley plug on the left side of the rear main. either way the transmission had to be unbolted and pulled out of the way

 

Ok fix several stuff, suspension was a collapsed strut on the passanger side got ss springs and struts low mileage dirt cheap on craigslist, fixed the rear main (havent checked if it still leaks) welded some of the loose exhaust car seems to ride smoother just order the motor and tranng mount set the poly one and just got new 02s will see how it goes

 

I need several parts if u guys have any left overs let me know just want to have it running good

 

Good luck! Its just a diamond in the rough bro!

 

Not too bad, just a few bad previous owners. Just fix everything up and show her what maintenance actually it's.

What are the miles on her? If they're not to high I wouldn't worry too much, I would swap every fluid in the car, and all main wear parts. You're off to a good start

 

Ok here is my list so far:

02 WS6 trans am expenses

$390 title change
$24.00 plugs
$75.00 gas
$17.09 car wash
$4.32 degreaser
$8 flasher
$50 tie rods
$57 02 sensors
$15 sway bar links
$5 mis screws
$60 strut setup
$16 sway bar bushings
$10 sway bar middle bushings
$101 poly engine mount and tranny
$250 rear main
$65 fix pipe
$50 alignment
$80 plug wiress, tranny mount, fuel filter
$35 oil change
$18 lca
$8 header bolts
$60 fix header leak

Ok problem right now is that it seems the drivers header bolts are stripped any fix without taking out the head?

 

I would soak the hell out of the bolts with liquid wrench spray or something similar. If you have access to a mechanic friend I am sure they have a tool to help. I vice grip bolts if I don't care.

 

No like i can take the header out i just cant bolt it

 

You will probably have to try and Heli-Coil them.

 

got them header bolts were not the correct size and were going in wrong, found some and they went in right and no more header leak difference in power is really noticeable, feels strong and can't keep does tires to grip too much power in first and second