Adjusting TPS
Adjusting TPS Just upgraded throttle bodies, and I've been trying to adjust my TPS within parameters. The issue I'm having is when I get the tps to .5v at idle, WOT only reaches about 4.05, a far cry from the suggested 4.5. And likewise, when I adjust it to reach 4.5 at WOT, idle reads 1.12v. Just looking for some quick ideas if anyone has had this issue before. The TPS came brand new with the throttle body, but I guess that doesn't rule out that it's bad. Thanks again for any advice in advance.
You are gonna have to have it right at idle because you have idle specific tables to run in. As far as WOT check and make sure there is not a set screw or some other type of stop that limits the travel of the throttle cam. Speaking of cam... some throttle bodies may have a different cam with a different opening rate and not allow full travel so you may have to reuse your original.
First off, verify that your blade goes from full closed
to dead center open. Use a ruler across the TB face.
Many F-bodies had not-enough pedal draw to get to
full open.
If you're mechanically right, the odds of the TPS being
the problem are slim. It's a simple mass produced piece
with no real challenges in life.
You might look at the feed voltage, though, since TPS
output is ratiometric. Best have 5.0V in, wire to wire,
if you want 4.6V out.
to dead center open. Use a ruler across the TB face.
Many F-bodies had not-enough pedal draw to get to
full open.
If you're mechanically right, the odds of the TPS being
the problem are slim. It's a simple mass produced piece
with no real challenges in life.
You might look at the feed voltage, though, since TPS
output is ratiometric. Best have 5.0V in, wire to wire,
if you want 4.6V out.
First off, verify that your blade goes from full closed
to dead center open. Use a ruler across the TB face.
Many F-bodies had not-enough pedal draw to get to
full open.
If you're mechanically right, the odds of the TPS being
the problem are slim. It's a simple mass produced piece
with no real challenges in life.
You might look at the feed voltage, though, since TPS
output is ratiometric. Best have 5.0V in, wire to wire,
if you want 4.6V out.
to dead center open. Use a ruler across the TB face.
Many F-bodies had not-enough pedal draw to get to
full open.
If you're mechanically right, the odds of the TPS being
the problem are slim. It's a simple mass produced piece
with no real challenges in life.
You might look at the feed voltage, though, since TPS
output is ratiometric. Best have 5.0V in, wire to wire,
if you want 4.6V out.
I had to fiddle a lot with the throttle cable & cam
when I went to the PP 85mm setup. I ended up having
to bypass the ASR gizmo because it was the final bind,
limiting cable pull below what the throttle cam needed.
Since the cams (pulleys) are swappable you might
be able to cobble something using a stock one or even
a smaller one off some other vehicle, you just have to
match the mounting hole and initial orientation.
when I went to the PP 85mm setup. I ended up having
to bypass the ASR gizmo because it was the final bind,
limiting cable pull below what the throttle cam needed.
Since the cams (pulleys) are swappable you might
be able to cobble something using a stock one or even
a smaller one off some other vehicle, you just have to
match the mounting hole and initial orientation.
I had to fiddle a lot with the throttle cable & cam
when I went to the PP 85mm setup. I ended up having
to bypass the ASR gizmo because it was the final bind,
limiting cable pull below what the throttle cam needed.
Since the cams (pulleys) are swappable you might
be able to cobble something using a stock one or even
a smaller one off some other vehicle, you just have to
match the mounting hole and initial orientation.
when I went to the PP 85mm setup. I ended up having
to bypass the ASR gizmo because it was the final bind,
limiting cable pull below what the throttle cam needed.
Since the cams (pulleys) are swappable you might
be able to cobble something using a stock one or even
a smaller one off some other vehicle, you just have to
match the mounting hole and initial orientation.
