ASP Pulley FELL OFF!
ASP Pulley FELL OFF! I had my ASP pulley installed at the Hot Rod Store of Texas about 3 weeks ago. They reused my stock original Crank Bolt. I thought nothing of this at the time. Seemed simple enough, right? remove old crank...install new Crank. Right? .... Wrong. I was pulling into an Exxon on Saturday and all of a sudden, my Power Steering Failed. I immediately shut her down and popped the hood. There laying up against my radiator was the ASP Pulley. Bolt nowhere to be found. Cost me $125 to tow her back into town as it was pretty late on a saturday night and I had my 8 year old son with me. I read last night that ASP advises the use of a brand new GM Crank Bolt (not the old one which they used). My question to you all is this:
Do you think that the people that installed the pulley are at least liable for my $125 tow? Liable for the price I will pay another shop to "reinstall", and last, but not least, if there is actual damage to the pulley, do they owe me another? I have to figure out how I am going to approach this by 2PM CST today before I go over there. They are at least gonna get a piece of my mind.
James Coker
PS sorry so long winded
Do you think that the people that installed the pulley are at least liable for my $125 tow? Liable for the price I will pay another shop to "reinstall", and last, but not least, if there is actual damage to the pulley, do they owe me another? I have to figure out how I am going to approach this by 2PM CST today before I go over there. They are at least gonna get a piece of my mind.
James Coker
PS sorry so long winded
I'd go after them for the towing, refund on installation, and any possible pulley replacement if required. Three weeks isn't very long, especially if you don't put alot of miles on the car.
You should always use a new bolt, since GM uses "Torque-to-yield" crank bolts on the LS1. That means the bolt is over-tightened on purpose to the yield point, causing bolt stretch. They shouldn't be reused since they have been to the limit on their original installation.
Don't use loc-tite on that crank bolt either, you want to be able to remove it later. Sounds like they didn't get it on far enough or torque the bolt properly.
You should always use a new bolt, since GM uses "Torque-to-yield" crank bolts on the LS1. That means the bolt is over-tightened on purpose to the yield point, causing bolt stretch. They shouldn't be reused since they have been to the limit on their original installation.
Don't use loc-tite on that crank bolt either, you want to be able to remove it later. Sounds like they didn't get it on far enough or torque the bolt properly.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,780
Likes: 7
From: Mi./Al.
See what they say before blowing your top, because they installed it they may make it right with you ( and in fact they should ). When we installed a friends ASP pulley I think he bought the ASP bolt, I'd go with that instead of a new G.M. bolt. JMO
Al
Al
Yea, get the ARP bolt.. its NOT torque to yield and can be used over and over again.
I would think the shop responsible since they should know that you need a new GM bolt whenever you R&R the crank pulley.
I would think the shop responsible since they should know that you need a new GM bolt whenever you R&R the crank pulley.
Last edited by Steve1969LS1; May 10, 2004 at 07:31 PM.
the good news is there is no crank damage according to alamo performance. Pulley should be able to be reused as well. They are getting me an ARP bolt to put the crank on and am sure they will do it right. As for the other guy, I am going to politely explain what happened. point out that they did not follow the instructions to use a "new" bolt, therefore it is their fault it happened and expect them to at least pick up my tab for the 125$ tow....
Originally Posted by DARK AGE 53
See what they say before blowing your top, because they installed it they may make it right with you ( and in fact they should ). When we installed a friends ASP pulley I think he bought the ASP bolt, I'd go with that instead of a new G.M. bolt. JMO
Al
Al
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Verdad Gallardo well.... Benny (Hot Rod Store) showed genuine compassion and confusion at how the balancer ever even could fall off. If my car was not already being fixed by Alamo, the impression that I got, was that he would have done anything to correct it. When he learned that i spilled 125 on a tow he offered to reimburse at least the tow. With how polite, understanding, and genuinely compassionate he was, I let him off the hook with splitting the tow with me and calling it even. Basically, his money will pay for a new seal, bolt and labor to put the piece back on the Z. I just eat the tow. Not acceptable, but I expect these thing with racing and the high stress.... **** happens sums it up best I suppose
James Coker
James Coker
He offered and that was what I was going for to be quite candid. He is not a bad guy and proved that when he offered that and was disappointed I did not give him the chance to fix it. I actually just realized the real deal a few minutes ago and made him aware that the guy that installed my crank (i was standing there with the car when he did it) actually tightened my crank bolt with the air wrench, not specific torque. I am sure that it was not torqued to specs using the air gun. I realized this after I got home and typed the last thread. I called him not to get anyone in trouble, but wanted him to be aware of what the employee had done just so he knew. I am not letting him install it, but he said he would hook me up on the NOS LS1 dry kit for 400, and then I will take it to Alamo and let them install it.... sounds good to me
Originally Posted by Nine Ball
Good deal James, glad to see that the shop worked with you. I'd have made them pay for the tow though 
that shop sucks.ive had my pulley off once already and just had a new GM crank bolt put in and have had no problems.
unless the shop has done tons of these installs i always supply directions if possible.not to be insulting but to helpful and to avoid situations like this.
unless the shop has done tons of these installs i always supply directions if possible.not to be insulting but to helpful and to avoid situations like this.
The pulley is an INTERFERENCE FIT. It requires a lot of force to send it home or at least it should. First of all the bolt should NOT have backed itself out that soon after the install if it was torqued down properly even if the bolt is a torque-to-yield and was streached somewhat. Additionally even WITHOUT the bolt the pulley shouldn't walk off of the crank like that so quickly because of how tightly it fits on the crank or at least how tight it is supposed to fit. I'd be real leary about this pulley when it is reinstalled. Since there is no key on the crank to keep it from spinning your pulley had to spin to walk off of the crankshaft. That's a cause for concern. You saw the crank shows no signs of wear so you better look REAL CLOSE at the ID of your ASP pulley. You better mic the crank and ID of the ASP pulley to be sure the crank OD is slightly larger than the ASP pulley ID or your going to have more problems even if you use a new bolt. I installed my a couple of years ago with no problems at all using a new bolt 120X16X2. Longer than stock which is 103mm to help get the pulley started on to the crank without putting undue strain on the first few threads of the shorter bolt which I didn't use anyway.
