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Mass Air Flow Question

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Old 02-03-2014 | 07:51 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by soundengineer
thats funny, cause new GM vehicles use a Card style MAF...from the factory. The Card MAF is not the issue.... its the Tuner not knowing how to make it work... you cant just adjust the MAF table alone when you switch from a Wire MAF to a card MAF... theres an entire page of other variables that you have to change.
Move the fan around in the dyno and tell me it doesn't start reading funny.

I'm aware they use them from the factory. Just sharing what I've learned through multiple discussions.

I'm fairly certain Geoff knows what the hell he's doing. I'm simply stating he doesn't like them.
Old 02-03-2014 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
Why have the starightener in front of the card style??????? The card style has nothing in front of them in oe form.
Short distance between filter and throttle body when installed in a f-body. It's such a short run that the straightener will stabilize the flow through the sensor and give you a much better idle. Too many guys are all about wot, that's crap to me. 90% of the time your car is either at idle or low rpm and the straightener in our cars makes things a hell of a lot better. Scan a LS with the card style in one of our cars and you'll see that it will jump between 3-4 cells, then put a straightener in and you'll see it locks into just two. The tighter you can keep it the better the idle quality. At low speed you will also see a huge improvement in the reported hz from the sensor and is a lot more stable. Stable flow measure equals a smooth, consistent ride... it makes a huge difference
Old 02-03-2014 | 08:07 PM
  #23  
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Couple of picks of what Im getting at here. Here is a before and after of a 100mm MAF without and with the straightener in place. This is a test that the boys did on HP site a while back and has been used by many,many guys to fix the problem.
Attached Thumbnails Mass Air Flow Question-beforescreen100mmmaf.jpg   Mass Air Flow Question-afterscreen100mmmaf.jpg  
Old 02-03-2014 | 09:04 PM
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Lots of good info here guys. FWIW, my car (stock with the usual bolt-ons) ran better when I got a screened MAF back in it.

Originally Posted by sepsis
Or you can keep your stock MAF, de-screen it, and use a Saxon honeycomb screen.
What's the point in this?
Old 02-03-2014 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Bell
What's the point in this?
Because you get a LOT more area opened up bc they use larger diameter holes. I used one as well. Where do you think the Haltech "honeycomb" comes from
Old 02-03-2014 | 10:15 PM
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I see. Didn't know they were larger. Strange how the various threads where Saxon is mentioned, it's not stated that the opening are larger. Could I have missed it?

Thanks for the info. I've just fitted a Saxon honeycomb into my new MAF tube.
Old 02-04-2014 | 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Bell
I see. Didn't know they were larger. Strange how the various threads where Saxon is mentioned, it's not stated that the opening are larger. Could I have missed it? Thanks for the info. I've just fitted a Saxon honeycomb into my new MAF tube.
There's a thread somewhere where I posted a pic of my original 78mm screen smashed down to actually show the surface area that's LOST using the stock screen. It was right at a quarter of the surface area when all said and done.

I believe that thread is called "Replacement Airflow Straighteners"

The Saxon screen has larger diameter holes and they're three times as thick.

My 04 Corvette doesn't have a screen, but rest assured ones on the way to replace what isn't there.



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