Busted LS6 intake...fixable?
I think so. Use an epoxy for plastics and it should be good. Just be sure to clean it properly so the epoxy can stick good. If your able try to push the inner part back flush with the other side of the crack before fixing.
I'll be curious to see what epoxy you use and what the results are. I have an LS6 intake on my shelf with a hole in it. I have piece to put back in but I haven't seen any successful repairs. apparently this Nylon 66 plastic is hard to get anything to stick to. Please share your results.
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Just an update:
My father in law has a Seelye plastic welder. We called the company to see which rod we should use to try to fix it. They've never had anyone inquire about this application, so we sent them a junkyard intake plenum to experiment on. If they are successful, they'll send us the proper rod and we'll give it a shot.
If that doesn't work out, I'll try to epoxy over it.
My father in law has a Seelye plastic welder. We called the company to see which rod we should use to try to fix it. They've never had anyone inquire about this application, so we sent them a junkyard intake plenum to experiment on. If they are successful, they'll send us the proper rod and we'll give it a shot.
If that doesn't work out, I'll try to epoxy over it.
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 625
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...rag-strip.html
Post #'s 10 and 11.
I used the Loctite plastic bonder acrylic based adhesive on my LS1 intake when I removed the MAP port from my intake. It's pretty cheap from Home Depot or Lowes, or Target, etc. It's working OK, but the operational temp is only 180F, which means the adhesive will probably be subject to higher temps than the max rating at some point.
If I were bonding an expensive component, I would use the Reltek Bondit45 or Bondit45TH. It is expensive but it works on PA66 material pretty well.
Post #'s 10 and 11.
I used the Loctite plastic bonder acrylic based adhesive on my LS1 intake when I removed the MAP port from my intake. It's pretty cheap from Home Depot or Lowes, or Target, etc. It's working OK, but the operational temp is only 180F, which means the adhesive will probably be subject to higher temps than the max rating at some point.
If I were bonding an expensive component, I would use the Reltek Bondit45 or Bondit45TH. It is expensive but it works on PA66 material pretty well.
I have been doing so research of my own and found a product that claims to bond Nylon 66 so for about $25 I think I will try it. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...tionassistance
I got the info from the manufacturer (page 31 in the pdf and 177 on the document)
http://www.on-hand.com/Manuals/How%2...ndPlastics.pdf
Here are some pictures of my broken LS6 intake but I have all the pieces. I have $0 in it so its worth a try to fix.
Yes its very very dirty.
I got the info from the manufacturer (page 31 in the pdf and 177 on the document)
http://www.on-hand.com/Manuals/How%2...ndPlastics.pdf
Here are some pictures of my broken LS6 intake but I have all the pieces. I have $0 in it so its worth a try to fix.
Yes its very very dirty.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 625
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
I have been doing so research of my own and found a product that claims to bond Nylon 66 so for about $25 I think I will try it. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...tionassistance
I got the info from the manufacturer (page 31 in the pdf and 177 on the document)
http://www.on-hand.com/Manuals/How%2...ndPlastics.pdf
Here are some pictures of my broken LS6 intake but I have all the pieces. I have $0 in it so its worth a try to fix.
Yes its very very dirty.
I got the info from the manufacturer (page 31 in the pdf and 177 on the document)
http://www.on-hand.com/Manuals/How%2...ndPlastics.pdf
Here are some pictures of my broken LS6 intake but I have all the pieces. I have $0 in it so its worth a try to fix.
Yes its very very dirty.
http://www.itwplexus.co.uk/images/uploads/tds/310.pdf
If I had found that before I bonded my intake I probably would have bought that instead of the 180F rated Loctite material. The extra $20 in price would have been worth it.
One could even use superglue (cyanoacrylate) but it would eventually fail due to temp and humidity.
I have been doing so research of my own and found a product that claims to bond Nylon 66 so for about $25 I think I will try it. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...tionassistance
I got the info from the manufacturer (page 31 in the pdf and 177 on the document)
http://www.on-hand.com/Manuals/How%2...ndPlastics.pdf
Here are some pictures of my broken LS6 intake but I have all the pieces. I have $0 in it so its worth a try to fix.
Yes its very very dirty.
I got the info from the manufacturer (page 31 in the pdf and 177 on the document)
http://www.on-hand.com/Manuals/How%2...ndPlastics.pdf
Here are some pictures of my broken LS6 intake but I have all the pieces. I have $0 in it so its worth a try to fix.
Yes its very very dirty.
It got damaged in shipping and the back part got shoved into the intake. The ebay seller just sent me a new one for free and included a 2nd set of rails, injectors, throttle body, sensors, and bolts. Plus he didn't want it back so it and everything attached to it was free. I think people forget these are fragile when they get shipped because he didn't pack the first one well. That plastic part on the back gets broken a lot.
The dirt is because it came from the desert and the seller had 26 of them on a shelf so I assume it had been sitting collecting dirt for a while.
The dirt is because it came from the desert and the seller had 26 of them on a shelf so I assume it had been sitting collecting dirt for a while.
If you want an epoxy that absolutely won't fail, it's called Marine Tex. It's expensive and it takes forever to cure (24hrs), but once it does, it's officially bonded to whatever you're working on. I've heard stories of it repairing cracked engine blocks.
So the OP must not be coming back to let us know his progress. It seems like all these intake repair threads end with someone getting advice and never coming back to report results.
I got the epoxy I ordered. If it works $30 will be a cheap price to pay. As a recap, this epoxy is listed by the manufacturer to bond to nylon 66 (what the intake is made of). Its the only epoxy I have found that says it can bond to the Nylon 66 thermoplastic material. It just can't fill large voids or holes, its for bonding and has to stay only a few millimeters thick. Anyway, this is just a spare intake that I have nothing in so I will try it out and report on the results.
My results will be slow since A)its been to cold to turn my outside water on so no pressure washer to clean the nasty intake and B) My swap won't be in a place to run until fall. I'll get around to doing the repair once it warms up. Worst case I'm out $30.
Here is a question for you guys though. The rear map port isn't designed to come out very easy and it has the o-ring for a seal. Could A guy just use the epoxy to bond the MAP port into the intake and ditch the oring. It would be just a more ridged mounting. I don't see a problem with it but I want opinions. Because of the way mine broke I'm concerned with the o-ring seal.
I got the epoxy I ordered. If it works $30 will be a cheap price to pay. As a recap, this epoxy is listed by the manufacturer to bond to nylon 66 (what the intake is made of). Its the only epoxy I have found that says it can bond to the Nylon 66 thermoplastic material. It just can't fill large voids or holes, its for bonding and has to stay only a few millimeters thick. Anyway, this is just a spare intake that I have nothing in so I will try it out and report on the results.
My results will be slow since A)its been to cold to turn my outside water on so no pressure washer to clean the nasty intake and B) My swap won't be in a place to run until fall. I'll get around to doing the repair once it warms up. Worst case I'm out $30.
Here is a question for you guys though. The rear map port isn't designed to come out very easy and it has the o-ring for a seal. Could A guy just use the epoxy to bond the MAP port into the intake and ditch the oring. It would be just a more ridged mounting. I don't see a problem with it but I want opinions. Because of the way mine broke I'm concerned with the o-ring seal.