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Removing the Harmonic Balancer has to be easier than this

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Old May 13, 2014 | 10:16 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by TMLoftis
I can get you some pictures tonight to show you. But you put the 2 larger silver things from the kit behind the balancer facing out (like a butterfly). Then thread the posts from the kit into the silver things then the bar that looks like an X spans the two posts. Then you thread the large rod that does the pushing through the middle into the center of the balancer bolt.
Don't worry, since the pic I saw didn't really show the 2 claw like parts, I was confused. I went by tonight and they had one open and noticed what was included and went ahead and purchased one, on sale for $39

I did the rust treatment tonight, will try tomorrow with the new puller.
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Old May 13, 2014 | 11:43 PM
  #22  
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I find it easier to use a tie down strap, tighted around the pullers arms to steady it from moving around. Plus using an impact gun with good air pressure instead of a big 1/2 drive rachet and socket makes it super easy....
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Old May 14, 2014 | 12:30 AM
  #23  
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http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/p...s/?product=537
Best one I have used. Can be found at quite a few places and even your local Oreillys can order it by part number. No need for the socket on the crank as the rod seats into the crank and you can pull the balancer right off. So easy and comes in plastic shell to hold everything. Super good kit.
http://www.coloradospeed.com/hawk-ls...3-p-10976.html
that is what i use to install them
never do an install without one now. One piece so never lose something to it. I use them so much, I actually have 2 of them because you ALWAYS misplace it when you need it and it blends in like a ninja, so I have backup.
Used to use the ARP LS7 bolt way back there, but ever since this style of installer came out, i found the error of my ways and have had good luck ever since.
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Old May 14, 2014 | 07:44 AM
  #24  
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I used this OEM brand three jaw puller that's available from Pep Boys and AutoZone. They'll loan it to you for free-or you can buy & own it like I did.

As noted above, the center point can go on the stock damper bolt turned out a bunch. I first drilled a shallow hole in the center of the bolt head so the puller's bolt had a spot to push on.

Looking at the stock damper, you'll see three notches in the hub. This is where the three arms of the puller go.

You'll need to grow one more hand to hold everything in place until the puller is snug enough to not fall onto your feet.


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Old May 14, 2014 | 08:25 AM
  #25  
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A 3-jaw puller for a Chrysler with a force rod is what you want. Or use the stock bolt. I used a wide socket to jam the puller into, and it ate into my ******* crank. Everything is fine as it was the tip, but I couldn't believe it.

The stock balancer is very difficult to get on and remove. The ATI balancer I have now is a breeze to install and uninstall by comparison.
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Old May 14, 2014 | 09:37 AM
  #26  
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Thanks everyone, like I said before, I have never had such a problem removing one, but there is always a first for everything.. I treated yesterday to help loosen the rust and weather permitting, will be trying again tonight. ill try my 3 jaw first, if nothing then the new puller.
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Old May 14, 2014 | 09:58 AM
  #27  
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That puller i posed it alot more compact and you dont have to hold the whole assy in place and have it wobble about and make you use curse words.
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Old May 15, 2014 | 10:09 AM
  #28  
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well took a few times with the new puller, but the balancer is off the car now, timing cover bolts removed, cleaned and ready for reinstall.

Now to get time to actually continue working on the car.
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