If the bolt backed out, but still had a few threads engaged, the pulley flying off at 5K rpm would have enough mass and intertia to shear a grade 8 bolt, leaving some threads in the crank snout.

But, 275ft/lbs and then another 140* turn is a LOT of freaking torque to just back out ...

 

Former buddy of mine set his car on fire because he couldnt make the payments. He neded up telling onhimself, breaking down for some reason. They never suspected a thing before he confessed point is: it's not worth it. if] anyone gets serious about doing it

 

yes it is, just dont tell on yourself

 

I've never had work done where the tech didn't give me back or show me the old parts. But it's one reason why I always request him. I have read on this Forum where a tech told a member it was okay to use old stretch bolts.

 

Sorry to hear of your troubles...

But consider this... if you had it installed by the dealership, how do you KNOW for sure it was installed correctly? I know for a fact that many dealerships and shops will use the ol' "good enough" line when doing work instead of taking the time and effort to do it exactly right.

After you get the new pulley, I say do it yourself with a friend helping... that way you know for sure if it was done right.

 

I'm willing to bet they re-used the stock, used TTY bolt, this is the incorrect procedure, regardless of what mechanic tells you this. A TTY can not be re-used once it's been stretched to it's final torque, period. If any mechanic tries to tell you otherwise, regardless of how many times it's "worked" for them, run and take your car with you.

There's no debating that

I agree with the above, get a new bolt and install it yourself, it should fix it (assuming no serious motor damage was done) no problem. However, you'll now need two brand new bolts, one to seat your pulley with (torque it to 240 lb/ft), remove, insert the new one, torque to 36 lb/ft then stretch 140* clockwise, done.

 

ARP balancer bolt...worth every penny Of course proper installation is still required. My car will never get within a mile of a dealership service department again - those wizards cost me $10k in damages that I can't prove they did! My advice would be use a good F-Body only shop that specializes in these cars! Or do it yourself!

 

sorry to hear chad . i know you'll get your setup squared away though, good luck with it.

 

just because you brought to the dealer dosnt mean it was done right.Next time got to LS1 how to and do it your self.

 

you guys are killing me with your dealership tech threads. Not every dealer and every technician is the same. I understand there are good and bad ones everywhere, but a smart tech will get the job done right the first time, because if it doesnt get done, and the car comes back, the tech WILL NOT get paid for re-work. But in most situations it is not best to have a dealer install aftermarket parts unless you know one of the techs or get a reference from someone. They work at the dealer for one reason: warranty work j/k My husband is a tech at a local dealer and he has done all the work on my car flawlessly. I also have an ASP pulley (for about 1 1/2 years) and have never had any of the problems you are speaking of. There are other techs (auto trans guy) at his dealer that he would let touch my car because he knows what they can do and they have worked on other LS1 cars.

You still have not answered any of the questions. Have you gone back to the dealer and asked to speak to the tech??

 

CamaroCain, I will have to disagree with you on this one. I agree there are good ones and bad ones, but even the good ones are paid on commision. The quicker they can turn a job the sooner they can start on another one. In addition, in the cases I have seen they still get paid for come backs but at a much lower rate. However, even if they didn't get paid again, if they only had 1 out of 20 jobs that they cut corners on come back it would still be worth it to them. Now I realize many of these are good techs, and would never cut those corners on their own cars, or even a buddies car, but at work it is about flag hours and odds. By the way, the good ones that will not cut corners do not last long because they can't make enough money for themselves and can't turn enough jobs for the bosses. That said, the stock TTY bolt is on the verge of failure everytime you install it (even when new), that is why it can not be reused. That is also why I would upgrade to a good bolt (ARP) as soon as the stocker was removed. Just hope the balancer coming off did not screw up the crank snout as well.

 

The pulley was installed by myself and my friend. It was torqued down correctly and a new crank bolt was used. It is at the dealer now for the sake I didn't have any other place to take it or work on the car. I am going to try and see if I can't get away to replace it by myself where it sits and go from there. Thanks for the replies.