99 LS1 TA Surging and P1133 P1153
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Teching In
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Illinois
99 LS1 TA Surging and P1133 P1153 Hey Guys,
The Car drives fine and then sets off both codes
P1133
P1153
And then surges for a while but does straighten itself out after a few minutes
I did have recent voltage issues but have replaced my Alternator and Battery.
What would cause both to set off code together like that? Last time i had a surging issue was with racing gas but went away with a fresh tank last year.
I did recently seal my collectors (after the o2's) with high temp silicone that was not sensor safe. But wouldn't that just kill them and make them trip the codes all the time right away?
Help Please!
The Car drives fine and then sets off both codes
P1133
P1153
And then surges for a while but does straighten itself out after a few minutes
I did have recent voltage issues but have replaced my Alternator and Battery.
What would cause both to set off code together like that? Last time i had a surging issue was with racing gas but went away with a fresh tank last year.
I did recently seal my collectors (after the o2's) with high temp silicone that was not sensor safe. But wouldn't that just kill them and make them trip the codes all the time right away?
Help Please!
Last edited by LazyEyeMcFly; Jul 17, 2014 at 04:55 PM.
I believe those codes are for slow switching of senor 1 bank 1 and 2. I got these codes after I installed LT's. The sensors seemed to be bad so I replaced them and cleared the codes, but the codes just came back. My tuner ended up tuning them out.
Search the codes here and you will find some more info.
Search the codes here and you will find some more info.
Switching and heater codes are your warning that the
O2 sensors can't be relied upon to work right. When
they sit there cold and low, you false-trim th run rich.
When you idle rich, your motor responds slow to IAC
stepping and the idle RPM control loop becomes unstable.
This is pretty normal for long tube headers even if the
O2 sensors themselves are fine. You can bet it will suck
much worse when the weather turns cold.
O2 sensors can't be relied upon to work right. When
they sit there cold and low, you false-trim th run rich.
When you idle rich, your motor responds slow to IAC
stepping and the idle RPM control loop becomes unstable.
This is pretty normal for long tube headers even if the
O2 sensors themselves are fine. You can bet it will suck
much worse when the weather turns cold.
