So I just ran into the whole sticky clutch pedal issue. I been looking online for some insight and they all seem to be missing one thing or another. So I'll tell you what I tried so far, I bought a mity vac from autozone and attempted to bleed the system from the top of the reservoir. So I'm no scientist but from what ppl are saying is to literally stick one end into the bottom of the reservoir and start pumping till you see bubbles correct? Now do I have to do anything with the pedal while I'm doing all this? Just need a good explanation on using this mity vac. I also tried cleaning out the fluid cuz it was black. So I did the ranger method of cleaning it out. After all of that my pedal still sticks to the floor. But after a while it will get pressure again and PPP back out. But then soon again if I'm at a light and hold the pedal down for a certain amount of time it'll stick again. So now my next option is to change the master cylinder. So I'll be doing the install myself, when I change that out should to still use the mity vac to bleed it or attempt to do it the old fashioned way with the bleeder screw. Thanks guys.

 

a moderator will likely move this to the manual transmission section. I'm going to assume that the Camaro in the signature pics is the car in question.

There are two causes for sticky pedal, and very often, both happen at the same time. First off, the stock master is garbage, and so are the replacements. There is also that restrictor in the fluid line that doesn't help. You can try the drill bit mod to try to buy some time, but it's hit or miss if it fixes the issue for more than a few months. Likely, the master cylinder needs replacing. If you plan on keeping the car, you should consider a tick master, even though it is far more expensive than a stock replacement. After replacing it three times, it doesn't feel expensive to never have to do it again.

Second, even if the hydraulics are perfect, there is the stock pressure plate, which if you still have the original clutch, is likely the other part of the issue. the stock pressure plate is self-adjusting, which is fine in the early life of the clutch, but as it wears on, the adjuster doesn't provide consistent return pressure, so your pedal randomly returns to different positions while driving.

Typically, the only good permanent fix is to replace the clutch and hydraulics in one fell swoop. I've had very good luck going to aftermarket non-adjustable pressure plates and adjustable master cylinder. In your case, I would consider a monster stage 1 or stage 2 kit from a sponsor like tick performance. you'll get everything you need to do it right and put it past you, including a remote bleeder that will make bleeding the clutch a piece of cake for the rest of the car's life.

You can try to do it piecemail, but I think you'll end up doing everything to get it corrected.

 

+1 on the remote bleeder ! Really everything Darth told you is very good advice.
I had a problem with my clutch not releasing. I thought it was hydraulics and started replacing parts. As it turned out, the "freeze plug" at the end of my crankshaft had become cocked. Engine oil fouled my LS6 clutch. Everything needed replaced, even the flywheel.
This was in a LSx swapped 93 RX7 so the close quarters made the work tough. I used a Wilwood 7/8" master and made a adjustable rod, ala Tick adjustable. Used stock slave. Bought a kit from Texas Drivetrain Performance (sadly out of business) that had a 15lb billet steel flywheel, big composite clutch and pressure plate that they said was good for 550 tq. Tick remote bleeder. 15K miles later and still trouble free. It's easy to slip the clutch for a smooth take-off.
Bleeding takes minutes; no Mity-vac or cutting a hole in your floor. Just extend the line off the bleeder with silicone tubing and put it in your resevoir. Pump the pedal until bubbles are gone.