westxwitesnake05

iTrader: (17)

Alright, I need a little help figuring out the pcv system routing. The harrop intake has provisions for stock ls6-ls1 style at the vacuum and pcv lines at the back of the intake. One barb goes to the brake booster one for that small vacuum line and one for the pcv. There is also a hose barb on the front of the intake (drivers side) that i think was for the factory EVAP system. There is a chamber on the underside that runs the length of the intake and connects to each runner. I have an ls2 valley cover with internal pcv valve. So basically how would you run pcv system on an ls1/6 intake with ls2 valley cover? The fabricated valve covers have no provisions except the one I added on passenger side cover but these will not be used. I'm looking at getting some Katech carbon fiber valve covers which have provisions on each cover but I need to know what and where everything runs before I order anything. I'd like to run a catch can or possibly dual catch cans as well. I've searched and searched but haven't found anything to help with my situation. Any help is much appreciated.

Katech_Jason

iTrader: (19)

Valley cover to vacuum source after throttle body
Valve covers to fresh air source. Normally after the MAF but in your case it won't matter because you'll be calibrating for that intake anyways. Probably SD anyways.

westxwitesnake05

iTrader: (17)

Thanks Jason. It will be an SD tune. What would the fresh air source be in this case? Would a vacuum pump be a better idea?

Katech_Jason

iTrader: (19)

The fresh air source would just be filtered air.

The valve cover side is fresh air in. The vacuum side is the valley to intake line.

COSPEED2

iTrader: (7)

Correct! With a SD tune as long as fresh side is filtered air your fine. We offer the Elite dual outlet system with a billet cleanside spearator for the fresh side that stops oil on both the foul and the fresh sides.

A belt driven vacuum pump would be the best, but have never seen one last long on the street. And you always want a adjustable vac relief valve on the fresh side and add a filter to it if your going to try it.

A proper dual outlet system will provide constant evacuation suction and retain a closed system. Let me know if you need more details. NICE build, and love the Harrop system!

PS, make sure you have a good baffle under those valve covers or you will have oil slinging from the rockers into any fittings on them. The Elite cleanside unit can come with a billet screw in style for your valve covers.

westxwitesnake05

iTrader: (17)

Thank you! Yes, I'd like to get some details on the dual outlet system you mentioned. Id really like to go with the Katech cf valve covers. I'm not sure if they have baffles or not?

COSPEED2

iTrader: (7)

Just pop off a valve cover and look underneath to verify. If they do not, not difficult to tig weld some in place.

For a NA build like yours, use this system:

http://www.coloradospeed.com/?main_p...ha_filter_id=0

How it works is the primary outlet from the can will run to your vacuum barb on the Harrop. This has an inline checkvalve that only flows away from the can and when you accelerate and the vacuum falls to zero, that valve closes and the second outlet valve opens and uses the suction present just upstream from the throttle body mouth (not any closer to the air filter as that suction drops rapidly the closer to the air filter) taking over so you always have proper evacuation (most will stop evacuating anytime intake manifold vacuum falls due to reversion pules, but those pules will not reach past the TB unless you exceed 8-9,000 RPM). Then, the center of the main separator will connect to your valley cover, or preferably the rear of the drivers side valve cover to prevent any stagnation on that bank as the valley cover only draws from the center of the crankcase not giving a good cross flow evacuation/flushing. If you go to the valve cover, then an inline PCV valve will be needed to control flow so volume is not to great). Use part# ECC76-2730 for a good inline PCV valve. If using the valley, it should have a fixed orifice already that will restrict flow.

Then on the passenger side, you install the billet cleanside separator in place of the oil fill cap (specify billet screw on style for those valve covers I believe, and that adds like $25 to it) and the line from in will run to just post MAF so that incoming air is metered by the MAF for ease of tuning. This provides a closed, EPA compliant system that evacuates at all times, and addresses both the foul/dirty side and the fresh/clean side of the system for the most complete oil control as well as ensuring maximum engine life by removing the damaging combustion byproducts as soon as they enter as a gas with blow-by.

Did that help? Ask more if needed. Don't mind at all. I am Tech Support, not sales.