BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Do I need a different adapter then what the Automter guage kit came with? I read some stuff that said you need a different adapter but I got confused whether it was talking about a non-autometer sensor.

I am going to pull the stock sender out and see if the automter fits before attempting to get all the way back to the one near #8. Thanks in advance

NHRATA01

iTrader: (10)

No, the adapters you get with the gauge do not fit! You have to buy the Equus fittings, hopefully someone has the link to the place that sells them online, give me a bit and i'll see if I can dig it up.

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Damn, I was hoping I didn't need them. I found them at Auto Barn. Would be nice if the local Autozone or Pep Boys had them. Oh well, Thanks bud

jruss

autometer part #2268 adapt this part to the block pass side right under starter, best place for temp sender hook up

Kevin 276

Yeap, it wasn't for the metric system, everything would work fine right off the shelf...

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

So autometer has the adapter too?

OK another question. I know I am supposed to get a fused 12V and a dim but how do I get to the wires in the back of the fuse box? I don't just want to pinch it under the fuses. Help?

ddelallata

iTrader: (2)

you don't have to cut wire in back of the fuse box. I forgot exactly what they are called.... you buy them at RadioShack. and what they do is allow you to get some power from one of the blades on your fuses. They slip over one of the blades and you can attach one of the wires to a little hole on the end(solder it there if possible). Your ground wire you can just put anywhere you want on the chassis.

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

I'll have to check that out. I had these wire taps that crimp around a wire allowing for a male disconnect to slip in the middle but those were crap. It split my wire right in half today.

Mike K.

You might also try wiring it into the stereos harness. I did this with 2 guages

Here is the diagram


Headunit wiring harness
Pin#............Color.................Function
1...............Grey..................Front Left Speaker -
2...............Tan...................Front Left Speaker +
3...............Dark Green............Front Right Speaker -
4...............Light Green...........Front Right Speaker +
5...............Black.................Ground
6...............Brown.................Illumination
7...............Grey..................Dimmer
8...............Pink..................Power Antenna
9...............Yellow................12V Ignition
10..............Orange................12V Constant
11..............NA....................NA
12..............NA....................NA
13..............NA....................NA
14..............Dark Blue.............Steering Wheel Controls
17..............Light Blue............Right Rear Speaker -
18..............Dark Blue.............Right Rear Speaker +
19..............Yellow................Left Rear Speaker -
20..............Brown.................Left Rear Speaker +

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

I put mine in the fuse block, so the fuse will blow if there is a short, or put in an in-line fuse.

And for the adapter, if you are going to put it in the block above the starter, you need an M16x1.5 adapter, avaliable at Jegs, Summit Racing, or E-gauges.

APeteSS

Don't pull the stock sender, the PCM needs to know the coolant temperature. Use the passenger-side drain **** and the appropriate adapter.

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

How did you guys tap into the back of the fuse box? I don't think I can get the soldering iron back there and I don't really trust those line taps(Well the ones I have anyway). I would like to do a proper job that would provision for future hookups. The back of the TCS switch seems to have the switch 12 and the dimmer. Could I tap into that? Has that been fused already if I connect to it?

So I take it there are two places to install the sender? One in the head right above cylinder 8 (M12 x 1.5 1/8") and one near the starter somewhere(M16x1.5 1/8"). I haven't seen the one near the starter but I'll assume its easier to get to. What the difference in the reading accuracy? Thanks again

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

The one in the block is a MILLION times easier to get to than the one in the head. Even with the header, coil packs, and valve covers off, I still had a hard time seeing it. For the one in the block, you just have to unbolt the starter and this black plastice piece, 3 bolts. Yes, thats the right adapter for the job. My gauge readings were right on, probably only about 1 degree off what AutoTap said.