FCar2000TA

iTrader: (7)

I am pulling my motor mounts to install ploy bushings... anyone wanna offer me some advice/lessons learned?

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

I would get a set of extra mounts so you dont have as much downtime if its your only ride..

ggino85

iTrader: (1)

I did one side at a time, i think i remember reading if you take out both mounts at the same time its much harder to get them back in place.... take your time (when installing the new mount, in can be a pain) and i used a jack on the k member to support the engine when putting in the new mounts. My old mounts were so bad once i drilled the stock mounts apart the rubber fell out in pieces and some rubber was melted to the metal. I scraped and sanded this rubber out before putting the poly bushing in. Good luck, it's really not that bad of a job.

FCar2000TA

iTrader: (7)

Should be able to do it with the car just on 4 jack stands, or do I need to have the fronts on ramps so the suspension is sitting at ride height?

Mappinsj

Motor mounts was worse than anything I have ever done on this car. And at 300k I have replaced everything.

Did it on a lift, had no transmission in the way either. It sucked ***.

Mappinsj

So get a polyurethane motor mount so it never has to be replaced. I wish I did

FCar2000TA

iTrader: (7)

That's what I got. From what I have been reading....


1. Remove the plumbing between throttle body and lid.
2. Do one side at a time
3. Remove the whole mount, pedestal and bushing, replace the bushing, reinstall the whole thing.

Can't find solid info on what size sockets/wrenches I will need. I have seen 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, and 18mm. I think I need 10mm and 15mm. I think 13 and 18 are for people who remove the engine accessories to just swap the busing, instead of pulling the whole mount.

5_litre_eater

I did mine on 4 jack stands. I'm not going to lie, it was not fun to do, but as long as you have patience, it's not that hard. There is a sticky that outlines the major steps, I'd check that out for sure.

FCar2000TA

iTrader: (7)

the sticky that I saw says to take the engine accessories off... I saw somewhere else that none of that is necessary if you just remove the whole mount/pedestal

Mark01Ws6

Do one side at a time. Have an extra jack or two and wood. Be very careful using wood on jack to support the engine as you most definitely don't want a busted oil pan. Get your trusty swearing notebook handy as you will invent new words and ways of cussing. Might wanna remember a few words invented as it is that much of a PITA. Also have a friend or 2 help.
I did not remove any accessories. Don't recall what all sizes are needed for sockets and wrenches. There is a heat shield on driver side mount that royally sucks. I did not reinstall that POS. No issues with heat from the headers.
TBH I would pay someone else to do it if I had to do it again. One side would line up fine but the other mount would not line up until I used a big prybar and had my Brother-in-Law lay underneath and start the bolts as I forced the mount into position. Even still it was good spending time with my teenage son and new Bro-in-law since still we laugh and cuss about it 2 yrs later. Good luck

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I think you have oversimplified this in your mind. Gaining access to those four mount bolts - especially on the passenger side is tough. While thou have them off you'll want to Waller out those four bolt holes going back to the block. I caught pure hell getting those four bolts back in until I pulled it back off and wallered them out. The poly mounts slightly change the geometry under there. You'll see what I mean.

I would suggest doing it on jack stands to get the wheels off and out of the way. I would also suggest removing the exhaust manifolds / headers - whichever you have.

You may not need to remove accessories if you're removing the pedestals, but getting bolts to line back up - holy smokes!

And also, protect that oil pan at all costs. I would rather do a full heads, cam, and motor mount swap before doing another oil pan.

And I see you asking about wrench sizes, but I honestly hope you're kidding. You'll need sockets, swivel joints, ratchet extensions, etc. speed wrenches are helpful but sometimes you can't get rotation with a wrench and need the sockets, swivels, and extensions.

Mappinsj

It is a effing Bitch. Anyone who says it's not that hard was trained to work on cars by Jesus.

FCar2000TA

iTrader: (7)

Just got under there to start.... **** that. I will pay someone.

On to replacing the knock sensors.

ggino85

iTrader: (1)

FCar2000TA

iTrader: (7)

Yoda is more believable

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

I plan on doing mine in the springtime.. although I do have an extra set of mounts that I can open up to reduce downtime...


I also dont have A/C so no compressor in the way.. just gotta remove alternator and then when I get them installed I will flip the bolts so I dont need to take off a bunch of crap anymore if I ever need to remove them again.

MikeZ28TA

iTrader: (3)

some guys claim to be able to do them without removing headers but I don't see how that's possible. Remove headers,ac compressor,alternator and i had to loosen the pedestials a little to line back up.