LS1 Motor Mounts... advice/lessons learned?
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 224
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From: Sierra Mountains and Stockton Ca.
I did one side at a time, i think i remember reading if you take out both mounts at the same time its much harder to get them back in place.... take your time (when installing the new mount, in can be a pain) and i used a jack on the k member to support the engine when putting in the new mounts. My old mounts were so bad once i drilled the stock mounts apart the rubber fell out in pieces and some rubber was melted to the metal. I scraped and sanded this rubber out before putting the poly bushing in. Good luck, it's really not that bad of a job.
1. Remove the plumbing between throttle body and lid.
2. Do one side at a time
3. Remove the whole mount, pedestal and bushing, replace the bushing, reinstall the whole thing.
Can't find solid info on what size sockets/wrenches I will need. I have seen 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, and 18mm. I think I need 10mm and 15mm. I think 13 and 18 are for people who remove the engine accessories to just swap the busing, instead of pulling the whole mount.
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 546
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From: Wichita, KS
Originally Posted by FCar2000TA
Should be able to do it with the car just on 4 jack stands, or do I need to have the fronts on ramps so the suspension is sitting at ride height?
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Verdad Gallardo the sticky that I saw says to take the engine accessories off... I saw somewhere else that none of that is necessary if you just remove the whole mount/pedestal
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 59
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From: Cumberland Md
Do one side at a time. Have an extra jack or two and wood. Be very careful using wood on jack to support the engine as you most definitely don't want a busted oil pan. Get your trusty swearing notebook handy as you will invent new words and ways of cussing. Might wanna remember a few words invented as it is that much of a PITA. Also have a friend or 2 help.
I did not remove any accessories. Don't recall what all sizes are needed for sockets and wrenches. There is a heat shield on driver side mount that royally sucks. I did not reinstall that POS. No issues with heat from the headers.
TBH I would pay someone else to do it if I had to do it again. One side would line up fine but the other mount would not line up until I used a big prybar and had my Brother-in-Law lay underneath and start the bolts as I forced the mount into position. Even still it was good spending time with my teenage son and new Bro-in-law since still we laugh and cuss about it 2 yrs later. Good luck
I did not remove any accessories. Don't recall what all sizes are needed for sockets and wrenches. There is a heat shield on driver side mount that royally sucks. I did not reinstall that POS. No issues with heat from the headers.
TBH I would pay someone else to do it if I had to do it again. One side would line up fine but the other mount would not line up until I used a big prybar and had my Brother-in-Law lay underneath and start the bolts as I forced the mount into position. Even still it was good spending time with my teenage son and new Bro-in-law since still we laugh and cuss about it 2 yrs later. Good luck
I would suggest doing it on jack stands to get the wheels off and out of the way. I would also suggest removing the exhaust manifolds / headers - whichever you have.
You may not need to remove accessories if you're removing the pedestals, but getting bolts to line back up - holy smokes!
And also, protect that oil pan at all costs. I would rather do a full heads, cam, and motor mount swap before doing another oil pan.
And I see you asking about wrench sizes, but I honestly hope you're kidding. You'll need sockets, swivel joints, ratchet extensions, etc. speed wrenches are helpful but sometimes you can't get rotation with a wrench and need the sockets, swivels, and extensions.
I plan on doing mine in the springtime.. although I do have an extra set of mounts that I can open up to reduce downtime...
I also dont have A/C so no compressor in the way.. just gotta remove alternator and then when I get them installed I will flip the bolts so I dont need to take off a bunch of crap anymore if I ever need to remove them again.
I also dont have A/C so no compressor in the way.. just gotta remove alternator and then when I get them installed I will flip the bolts so I dont need to take off a bunch of crap anymore if I ever need to remove them again.
some guys claim to be able to do them without removing headers but I don't see how that's possible. Remove headers,ac compressor,alternator and i had to loosen the pedestials a little to line back up.