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overheating problem???

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Old Jul 8, 2016 | 02:28 PM
  #21  
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Please post a link to the filter that you will be using.
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Old Sep 2, 2022 | 12:36 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by mikesimpalass
Hi guys, my car is starting to have an overheating problem that I'm having trouble diagnosing. It is an ls swapped gbody monte carlo. Up until now, my car never had a problem cooling. At idle, the temp would climb up to around 205-210, my electric fans would kick on, and the temp would drop right back down. But now, at idle, the temp climbs up to 225 with no sign of stopping, and then I just shut the car off.

I have a massive 4 row copper brass radiator. The previous owners of my car had it custom made and I inherited it with the car. It previously cooled a 600 horse iron headed big block WITHOUT a fan shroud.

I have bled the system for air a few times with no avail, I have front and rear steam vents that I've opened up and bled coolant out of.

My Taurus fans are running, and I've confirmed that they are freely flowing air through the radiator.

I replaced my thermostat and it did not make a difference.

Here are a few observations I've made. *while the engine is starting to overheat* , my upper radiator hose is hot, while my lower hose is pretty cool......and, when my engine temp climbs up close to 220, if I Rev the engine to around 2500 rpm, the engine cools down very quickly to 205.....

This makes me believe that either my waterpump is on its way out, it's a relatively new ls3 water pump with just a few hundred miles on it, or my radiator is clogged up. Any advice on how I can diagnose my problem going forward?

As always, thank you!
if one hose is hot and one is not the radiator is not flowing properly take it and get it rodded out and cleaned
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Old Sep 2, 2022 | 12:39 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by LS6427
Water pumps never stop pumping water/coolant......unless the shaft is sheared. They spring leaks in their seals, thats why we have to replace them. But if it was sheared then you would overheat immediately, every time.

Take the t-stat out and bolt the housing back up.....see if both radiator hoses get hot. If they do, then there's no obstruction. Obstructions and clogged radiators is almost an impossible thing, unless you drop a rag into the radiator.

I would guess you purchased a bad "new" t-stat....and the old t-stat was the problem.

But first check for flow the way I described.......

.
uumm no! Clogged radiators are ABSOLUTELY a thing I have been a repair shop mechanic and heavy equipment mechanic for 35 years and have come across several radiators that would not flow and a new radiator fixed it they can totally clog up with sediment and not flow properly. Another person chiming in that works on a car once a year speaking as an authority. That's the only thing that bothers me about forums, you got a lot of great guys on here that know what they're talking about but the other 70% is armchair mechanics that have changed their oil and front disc brakes a couple times and all the sudden they are master technicians giving bad advice to entry-level young people
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Old Sep 2, 2022 | 12:59 PM
  #24  
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You do know you're replying to a six-year-old thread, right? Usually that means anyone you're replying to is long gone, diffusing any point made.
But you might get lucky here. Mikesimpalass was here last June so he MIGHT catch this.
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Old Oct 14, 2022 | 06:04 PM
  #25  
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Armchair Lenny replying to a 6yr old post and blessing us with his knowledge. ROFL.
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