No problems so far. I dropped .6 after the first batch of mods: LT's, true duals, LS6 intake, ported TB, SSRA. Best run to date is a 13.08(2400 DA). I beat the late model 5.0 by a full second.
Already ordered a SS3600.... about to be mid 12's.

 

Very nice! I am facing the same issue. Went to install my Hooker BH system, but on the passenger side broke the rearmost bolt. I have a cheaper (don't remember the brand) 110v wire feed welder. I started trying to drill for an EZ out, but it's taking forever and I've barely made a dent. I am going to heat it up with a propane torch and try to hit it hard with a large LH drill bit. I've heard those can sometimes back the bolt out.

If not, I'll try to weld a nut to it. I am basically brand new to welding, so it'll be interesting. From what I have read, and what you've mentioned, sounds like you just really need to get some good globs on there with good penetration and get a nut tacked onto that well....doesn't seem like it needs to be very precise and pretty, so maybe my novice *** can handle it. I'll have to see if I can get up there with the welder that I have though, it is damn tight.

 

I feel your pain brother. I took a broken bolt screwed it into a piece of AL to practice on. There are some excellent Youtube vids on welding a nut to a broken bolt and they motivated me. The biggest challenge is of course WHERE the bolt is. First thing I did was to figure out how I was going to access the welder gun to the broken bolt. I was able to to mine totally by myself which presented a bit more of a challenge. Having a helper to hold the nut(longnose vice grips worked great for me) at the moment of truth will be helpful. Also be mindful of splatter and cover any areas to prevent it. I used wet cardboard in some places.

Good luck and keep me posted on how it goes.

 

Thanks, man - will throw out an update once I have one. Hell, if I manage to get this thing out you'll probably hear my victory cry all the way from MI!

 

don't see why this wont work on a Camaro...

http://www.dormanproducts.com/digita...17-107_DOR.PDF

 

I don't either. Great to know there is an alternative. I would try to remove it first. Funny to say this but it may be the greatest accomplishment so far on this car yet.

 

That's an interesting solution for sure! Good to know that's an option.

So, my plan of the propane torch and the LH drill bit didn't get me anywhere. Looks like I'll be taking a crash course in welding and trying that.

 

So, I am throwing in the towel on trying to extract the bolt and going with an alternative solution...

I checked that one out, and it looks like it could work - interesting solution. It seems like a PITA to get to the back of the block though. In researching this, I did happen to come across another solution. Thanks for posting this, I never would have found an off the shelf solution.

When the bolt first snapped, I noticed the other bosses in the heads and honestly thought about picking up some bar stock to make something almost identical to the product below. Looks like Dorman had the same idea...

It's not listed to work with the LS1, but it works with other LS heads, which leads me to believe it'll work fine. I picked it up for $28 shipped off Amazon and will report back with how it fits later this week:

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-917-14.../dp/B00OZVPC2G

I really wanted to remove the bolt and have it done "right", but eff it. If this works, it'll save me a bunch of time and grief. Time is at a premium now between work and two ankle biters.

 

Sorry to see that, but for $28 it's worth a try to get you going.

I'm curious how you were able to drill in such a tight spot. Left handed drill was a good idea. I've removed quite a few studs over the years using left handed drills. When I removed the rear most stud on my drivers side, It seemed impossible to drill it out even with an angle drill.

 

I was using a small Dewalt 90* adapter, and I had to cut the drill bit length down to fit. It's damn tight. Thing is, on the passenger side, you don't have to contend with the steering shaft

 

that looks like it would work too, but only if a bolt between two snaps. it's usually the rear most manifold bolt that breaks. and FWIW, I've seen a ton of rear bolts broken with zero exhaust leaks. mine of-course leaked...

you might get away with copper coating your OEM manifold gasket and torqueing the bolts back down. good luck!

 

Update - so, the rear passenger bolt broke on mine. I have the header on the driver's side installed. The Dorman clamp linked below arrived today.

First off - this is a pretty massive and beefy cast piece. I wasn't expecting it to be this robust. I'm impressed.

So, I threw it on the driver's side front of the head as a test fit, since that'd be a mirror image of the passenger rear. Luckily, it fits like a glove - clears everything including the header flange with little room to spare. I am very pleased with how easily it went on and think it'll do the job well.

Only time will tell - I'll get the passenger header on this week and clamp it down.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-917-14.../dp/B00OZVPC2G

 

best part is that since its on the back of the head nobody will be able to see it.

 

Great news. Glad to hear that.