Alternator regulator keeps dying
To set the record straight, this was a classic case of user malfunction. Everybody should ignore all my theories from earlier in the thread. I had bad wiring, end of story.
The excitation circuit had a flaky connection at my dash. Never had a problem after fixing the wiring. I could have kept using the L terminal, I just found it more convenient to use the F terminal because I have an LS swapped car with Holley EFI.
The excitation circuit had a flaky connection at my dash. Never had a problem after fixing the wiring. I could have kept using the L terminal, I just found it more convenient to use the F terminal because I have an LS swapped car with Holley EFI.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2022
Posts: 1,032
Likes: 389
From: Alaska
Find a LOCAL alternator rebuild shop. Have them build an alternator for your application.
Normal race car trick is to install the LARGEST DIAMETER Alternator pulley that will maintain charge voltage at idle.
My Ice racer used a 4-1/4 inch deep v belt pulley to slow down the rotor speed, still made 35 amps at idle.
On my supercharged 4.8 LS that likes to REV, I use a conventional 145 amp DR44 truck alternator, but spin a 68 mm pulley to slow down the rotor and avoid belt screech when upshifting at 6500 rpm/
Alternator still puts out 90 amps at idle, even with the big pulley.
SLOW down to accesories, get more power to the wheel.
Normal race car trick is to install the LARGEST DIAMETER Alternator pulley that will maintain charge voltage at idle.
My Ice racer used a 4-1/4 inch deep v belt pulley to slow down the rotor speed, still made 35 amps at idle.
On my supercharged 4.8 LS that likes to REV, I use a conventional 145 amp DR44 truck alternator, but spin a 68 mm pulley to slow down the rotor and avoid belt screech when upshifting at 6500 rpm/
Alternator still puts out 90 amps at idle, even with the big pulley.
SLOW down to accesories, get more power to the wheel.
