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Porting a Dorman LS6 reproduction intake

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Old Dec 23, 2016 | 01:07 PM
  #21  
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I mean a GM OEM LS6
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Old Dec 24, 2016 | 09:45 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Mike Morris
I mean a GM OEM LS6
Well any experience he may have with oem intake maybe helpful but the Dorman LS6 is quite a bit different its more like a FAST in design .That's why I say it needs to be opened to reach its full potential . Unlike the LS1/LS6 intake which is one piece lost core mold. The Dorman is a 3 piece design.
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Old Dec 25, 2016 | 12:17 PM
  #23  
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Actually this Dorman is 2 piece desingn like old FAST 78mm. Bottom part is copy from FAST but top half is Dorman own desing, so we cant be sure of total runner volume and shape exactly compared to fast.
I wonder nobody yet have cut those runners half and see whats inside from broken manifolds. Im meaning LS1 and LS6. Between those intakes i doubt there is no more difference than plenum volume, othervise they are same. It would be nice to see cut versions of them both side by side.
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Old Dec 25, 2016 | 02:06 PM
  #24  
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Speculation never stops if nobody make real science of this after all.
My opinion is Dorman LS6 is most less restrictive and cheapest intake what you can buy when ported behind stock 75mm TB, period.
What comes to this new LS2 dorman, , , i think its going to do well what it costs.

These LS heads is farely easy to port to flow about to 90% from best of market heads (same volume) if you are familiar with porting somehow. If you buy one third of a money these potential flowing intakes and port it for your purpose they are good.
There is going to be better ones always but if you aim low these are good for DIY guys. Best bang for the buck as you say.
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Old Dec 25, 2016 | 04:43 PM
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So measuring the front of tb opening I get 78.3 or so. The back edge of the tb opening measures 85.4, so I don't see a reason one couldn't use an 85 tb. Now my ports clean up at 26.39 width at opening manifold side, 25 head side. In the manifold port as far as I can go about 2.5 inches in I get 32 and it's still transitioning bigger. Any further and the arms touch the sides. Their is definitely room to straighten things out draw taker down gradually, maybe get the port mouth opened up some, and match the head side too. I am doing 317's with removed stud boss, narrowed guide boss and completely removed ramp. Going to mill .040 for a 98 ls1. Would really like to open it up and bell the plenum side openings... just not sure how to go about it.
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Old Dec 26, 2016 | 06:46 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by fsvaasam
Actually this Dorman is 2 piece desingn like old FAST 78mm. Bottom part is copy from FAST but top half is Dorman own desing, so we cant be sure of total runner volume and shape exactly compared to fast.
I wonder nobody yet have cut those runners half and see whats inside from broken manifolds. Im meaning LS1 and LS6. Between those intakes i doubt there is no more difference than plenum volume, othervise they are same. It would be nice to see cut versions of them both side by side.
Do you have pictures to verify the Dorman as 2 piece design ..... the FAST is a 3 piece design.
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 01:20 PM
  #27  
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Sorry no pics i ported one year ago and took some pics but i cant find them anymore.

I educate myself more on this. I thougt you call 3 piece when its individual runners and 2 piece when runners are not coming apart.

I have never taken apart FAST but i search some pics and can see Dorman must have built same way. My bad.
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Old Dec 27, 2016 | 08:18 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by fsvaasam
Sorry no pics i ported one year ago and took some pics but i cant find them anymore.

I educate myself more on this. I thougt you call 3 piece when its individual runners and 2 piece when runners are not coming apart.

I have never taken apart FAST but i search some pics and can see Dorman must have built same way. My bad.
I have had a few Dorman LS6 but have not opened one up. I would like to see it separated and open . It is possible that the spine is fused to the upper shell and someone could argue that makes it a 2 piece. But if their Truck intake 615-183 is any indication of design, its similar to the FAST 78.
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 11:27 AM
  #29  
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Anyone know what this intake is constructed of! Nylon 66? If I could get that answered I would be willing to open mine up. Or if we could find out what TPIS used to bond the 90mm snout on. I don't have faith in "otc" adhesives for the material, and environment it is in.
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by TT427
Anyone know what this intake is constructed of! Nylon 66? If I could get that answered I would be willing to open mine up. Or if we could find out what TPIS used to bond the 90mm snout on. I don't have faith in "otc" adhesives for the material, and environment it is in.
Im pretty sure its Nylon 66 , most all composite intakes are . The only exception is the LS2 and LS7 they are Nylon 6. Both will plastic weld , but Nylon 66 has a higher melting point and tensile strength and flexural. Do it be the first with gonads to cut it open and post pics.
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 12:51 PM
  #31  
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I thought I saw they were 66 in a thread but I can't find it now of course. I believe that would be the best method to put back together. Thinking I could use a dremel carbide wheel, as it's probably the thinnest and cleanest cut you could make. If I have some time this weekend I just might separate the 2 pieces.
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 01:43 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by TT427
I thought I saw they were 66 in a thread but I can't find it now of course. I believe that would be the best method to put back together. Thinking I could use a dremel carbide wheel, as it's probably the thinnest and cleanest cut you could make. If I have some time this weekend I just might separate the 2 pieces.
I don't like dremel for this kind of work . A thin cut off wheel works ..... I like to use a Oscillating Multi tool it cuts like butter and does not remove much material at all. There are many ways to skin the cat , do what works best for you.
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 02:22 PM
  #33  
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It would be a cutoff wheel or rotary but, I don't have an oscillating tool.
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 02:33 PM
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Harbor Freight has them , when they are on sale I think they are less than $20 if iirc
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 12:51 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by TT427
I thought I saw they were 66 in a thread but I can't find it now of course. I believe that would be the best method to put back together. Thinking I could use a dremel carbide wheel, as it's probably the thinnest and cleanest cut you could make. If I have some time this weekend I just might separate the 2 pieces.
Hey just wanted to let you know , I did verify the material today and it is confirmed it is Nylon 66.
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 09:15 AM
  #36  
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After really examining the intake and where it's fused together, I am not comfortable with separating the 2 pieces. I will likely buy an 85mm tb and open up the snout and use the paper gasket/rtv to seal it.
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Old Jan 11, 2017 | 05:42 PM
  #37  
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So I couldn't let well enough alone. I ended up cutting a big rectangle out of the bottom. I have a few pics I will try to get posted to show where their are more intrusions into the port, like on the head side. The mold seems pretty thick and their is a good bit of removal that can be done. I can see why a FAST can pick so much up now in the right hands if this is similar to a 78
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 05:41 AM
  #38  
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That's interesting, can you post a few pictures please?
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 07:21 AM
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In the next few days I will post some need a Photobucket account. Most problems are at the bell mouth, or entry not actually in the port.
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Old Jan 12, 2017 | 11:30 AM
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