What HP Output for my New Alternator ?
01-29-2017, 09:36 AM
#21
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BAS Hybrid Hi Tristan, I would like you to post that "open area" picture, Top View.
I will send some pictures to your E-Mail if provided ?
Tested ONE of the SIX Star Motor Rear Earth stator sub assembles yesterday.
The input was 12.67 volts, scoped wave form PW measured. (16ms)
The output was 14.87 volts, scoped wave form PW measured. (22ms)
The field, when the Flux collapsed, was measured.
The frequency was 30Hz or 6000 Engine RPM.
This current was DC with Diode in place.
This is with NO Armature Flux added to the Stator.
There was no heat increase in the Stator "steel".
Lance
I will send some pictures to your E-Mail if provided ?
Tested ONE of the SIX Star Motor Rear Earth stator sub assembles yesterday.
The input was 12.67 volts, scoped wave form PW measured. (16ms)
The output was 14.87 volts, scoped wave form PW measured. (22ms)
The field, when the Flux collapsed, was measured.
The frequency was 30Hz or 6000 Engine RPM.
This current was DC with Diode in place.
This is with NO Armature Flux added to the Stator.
There was no heat increase in the Stator "steel".
Lance
01-31-2017, 04:08 AM
#22
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Hello Lance,
As the car was on the hoist when I last saw it and unable to lower it, this was the best I can do. Also top clearance is unhindered, it's side and mostly rearwards with exhaust that is main concern if American/rugby ball shaped.
Have uploaded the photos to http://imgur.com/a/qEi3q
I'm not so good with the numbers you have provided (this is beyond my level of understanding and what I needed to learn for my prior generator experience) but if you're getting good efficiency without armature flux/coil energisation and no heat, this is a damn good sign.
Also agree shielding is not impossible if you know what you're doing and can't design around it. Current electric cars would have a plethora of problems if this was not easily solved.
Main thing I'm worried about is the standalone (a Link ECU), which will be within a yard or so behind the firewall from memory. Cheers,
-Tristan
As the car was on the hoist when I last saw it and unable to lower it, this was the best I can do. Also top clearance is unhindered, it's side and mostly rearwards with exhaust that is main concern if American/rugby ball shaped.
Have uploaded the photos to http://imgur.com/a/qEi3q
I'm not so good with the numbers you have provided (this is beyond my level of understanding and what I needed to learn for my prior generator experience) but if you're getting good efficiency without armature flux/coil energisation and no heat, this is a damn good sign.
Also agree shielding is not impossible if you know what you're doing and can't design around it. Current electric cars would have a plethora of problems if this was not easily solved.
Main thing I'm worried about is the standalone (a Link ECU), which will be within a yard or so behind the firewall from memory. Cheers,
-Tristan
01-31-2017, 11:10 AM
#23
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Emi = ok Yes, great pictures, good work.
As for your Link concern, I could send you one of my Car Covers.
This car cover when installed would protect your car from an high altitude EMP "Nuke" blast.
A simple Faraday Cage.
The Link ECU needs only a case to chassis ground link.
Send me a E-Mail and I will send the .pfd of the casting, the BAS.
I will send the drawing.
Lance
As for your Link concern, I could send you one of my Car Covers.
This car cover when installed would protect your car from an high altitude EMP "Nuke" blast.
A simple Faraday Cage.
The Link ECU needs only a case to chassis ground link.
Send me a E-Mail and I will send the .pfd of the casting, the BAS.
I will send the drawing.
Lance
02-05-2017, 08:02 PM
#24
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after some reading tonight and talking to you seems like an awesome idea. How well do you feel it will hold to higher rpm range like into upper 6000 to 7000 rpm. I would be interested to swap out my alternator from true trac surp to that on an engine dyno when I dyno the new engine for final tuning. If so would like to come up with a set sheet of testing to do while having it on the dyno. I will be discussing that with you anyways so I can be as productive as possible with the current setup from you. After reading only a little on the tech I will do some more studing on the subject. This is very interesting to say the least.
02-06-2017, 10:21 AM
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Armature Speed Hi John, yes I agree the Armature speed needs to be slower.
The GREAT point about this "mod" is the Alt Pulley would be MUCH larger with a lower speed AND the ability to transmit more torque.
Lance
The GREAT point about this "mod" is the Alt Pulley would be MUCH larger with a lower speed AND the ability to transmit more torque.
Lance
02-06-2017, 10:52 AM
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Hmm which arises one other issue then more have your cake and eat it too kind of deal. When in the lower rpm range of a street car where it spends most of it's time will it be efficient enough?
Or is it a compromise based on application? Example Race car road race/Rally Car any car trying to save on fuel and get that little extra edge running a larger pulley cause they are running mostly all out while a street hot rod car that is redlined at 6500 and only sees those RPMs once in a great while could run a smaller pulley to see better gains. Such as a street strip application.
Just trying to get more of an understanding also would a separate belt be needed or would the serpentine be enough to transfer the energy efficiently.
Could you be better off using a toothed drive belt like used in a supercharger application!!
Or is it a compromise based on application? Example Race car road race/Rally Car any car trying to save on fuel and get that little extra edge running a larger pulley cause they are running mostly all out while a street hot rod car that is redlined at 6500 and only sees those RPMs once in a great while could run a smaller pulley to see better gains. Such as a street strip application.
Just trying to get more of an understanding also would a separate belt be needed or would the serpentine be enough to transfer the energy efficiently.
Could you be better off using a toothed drive belt like used in a supercharger application!!
02-06-2017, 01:01 PM
#28
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BAS Hybrid Hi John, the GM OEM BAS uses a tensioner on BOTH sides of the belt, both Pull/Push sides of the ALT.
The PMM/PMG will produce much power, just controller by the PLC at the drive limit.
The chance to use a HTD is fine/easy for those who want more POWER.
Lance
The PMM/PMG will produce much power, just controller by the PLC at the drive limit.
The chance to use a HTD is fine/easy for those who want more POWER.
Lance
02-16-2017, 12:36 PM
#30
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Hello Lance, have emailed you earlier in the week after being away helping family and with no net for quite some time during this period. Looking forward to hearing more about this system. Car has been delayed so a bit more time now, be great to check this out.
07-24-2017, 01:49 AM
#31
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Bump.
Keen to see if you have any progress on this Lance, noticed you mentioned fall release elsewhere.
Any way to run BAS setup with HTD? Figured can try run it with a longer belt that's used also for dry sump pump.
Electric assist for a larger cammed LS would be an interesting trick to reduce overlap related efficiency losses when cruising to track/around town.
Also, any chance of regenerative braking or just not enough power via belt?
Edit: also have to re-locate coils, so thinking might just get new ones if there is much of an advantage over stock LS3 coils. Have seen you mention 15-20hp in other threads and not sure if that applies to LS3 also. If you want to make a sale for some upgraded ones there is an opportunity for you there. Do you do the plugs at same time e.g. Brisk RSK? Have seen some *very* interesting results from others with boosted spark/huge plasma, dual coaxial anode injector/plugs with direct water injection, to the point hydrogen embrittlement becomes an issue down the track but that's probably a discussion for an entirely different forum
Also looking at a trunnion/bearing upgrade kit so could do two birds with one stone if you can source and ship em both.
Cheers
Keen to see if you have any progress on this Lance, noticed you mentioned fall release elsewhere.
Any way to run BAS setup with HTD? Figured can try run it with a longer belt that's used also for dry sump pump.
Electric assist for a larger cammed LS would be an interesting trick to reduce overlap related efficiency losses when cruising to track/around town.
Also, any chance of regenerative braking or just not enough power via belt?
Edit: also have to re-locate coils, so thinking might just get new ones if there is much of an advantage over stock LS3 coils. Have seen you mention 15-20hp in other threads and not sure if that applies to LS3 also. If you want to make a sale for some upgraded ones there is an opportunity for you there. Do you do the plugs at same time e.g. Brisk RSK? Have seen some *very* interesting results from others with boosted spark/huge plasma, dual coaxial anode injector/plugs with direct water injection, to the point hydrogen embrittlement becomes an issue down the track but that's probably a discussion for an entirely different forum
Also looking at a trunnion/bearing upgrade kit so could do two birds with one stone if you can source and ship em both.
Cheers
Last edited by S2KIWI; 07-24-2017 at 01:56 AM.
07-25-2017, 10:45 AM
#32
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Motor Traction Control Hi Tristan, YES you are correct, the motor term is Traction, with the use of "negative" braking.
The Dry Sump Belt would work perfect.
The controller has a TPS input, some digital, and AUX inputs at this time.
Yes we have coils, both GEN-IV AND the IGN-1A, with similar prices.
The HP increase is common with a LARGER SPG AND the difference in coil AMPS.
The GM LS coils are 10 AMP with the IGN-1A at 25 AMPS
The Brisk, God No, as I have tested many models of these plugs in my CO-2 Pressure chamber.
This is an Eight Channel, eight plug position, chamber with easy back/back spark plug test using one "standard" plug, then the other types.
I found MAJOR miss-fire with those "trick" Brisk designs, then "cut" one in 1/2 finding the Ceramic on the chamber bottom.
I use CHE with great prices AND you should Time-Sert the rocker arm head bolt location. (I could send that kit also with the CHE's ?)
Lance
The Dry Sump Belt would work perfect.
The controller has a TPS input, some digital, and AUX inputs at this time.
Yes we have coils, both GEN-IV AND the IGN-1A, with similar prices.
The HP increase is common with a LARGER SPG AND the difference in coil AMPS.
The GM LS coils are 10 AMP with the IGN-1A at 25 AMPS
The Brisk, God No, as I have tested many models of these plugs in my CO-2 Pressure chamber.
This is an Eight Channel, eight plug position, chamber with easy back/back spark plug test using one "standard" plug, then the other types.
I found MAJOR miss-fire with those "trick" Brisk designs, then "cut" one in 1/2 finding the Ceramic on the chamber bottom.
I use CHE with great prices AND you should Time-Sert the rocker arm head bolt location. (I could send that kit also with the CHE's ?)
Lance
07-25-2017, 07:00 PM
#33
As best I can tell he is trying to design an alternator that provides high output under high load, that is controlled remotely by an external controller. He is trying to increase output to increase supply to the coils for high horse power applications only, road racing I assume, or a huge application would be an ls powered boat or air plane
Though I didn't comprehend any of that until the bottom of page 1
Though I didn't comprehend any of that until the bottom of page 1
04-24-2018, 09:34 PM
#34
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Lance any more progress on this? would love a better alt to power more than just factory stuff... E.G. a electric power steering pump from a mini or a MR2.... and a electric water pump the 1A coils along with a more efficient ALT would work wonders on a C5 vette (want the hydraulic PS pump for proper road "feel"
04-25-2018, 06:55 PM
#35
1 HP = 746 W
At 14.00 V, 746 W = 53.3 A
Given that nothing is 100% efficient, let's assume (yes I know) that 80% of the mechanical input to the alt, comes back out as electricity...
53.3 × .80 = 42.6
So, for every 42.6 A, the alt consumes 1 HP.
Now of course that doesn't include friction in the bearings, the power it takes to drive the cooling fan, or friction in the brushes (if any), or the power consumed by the electronic commutator. Let's assume that that's equal to the actual mech/elect conversion load, at full load. In that case, the alt will use 1 HP for every 21 A of alt output, or thereabouts, at full load.
But as we all know, things like bearing friction are largely load-independent, and the cooling fan certainly is... so the REAL alt load probably goes from the about the 1 HP for 42.6 A of CAPACITY at 0 load, to about 1 HP per 21 A of ACTUAL load at full capacity. So for a 160 A alt, the load is probably around 4 HP at no-load and rises to 8 HP at full load.
At 14.00 V, 746 W = 53.3 A
Given that nothing is 100% efficient, let's assume (yes I know) that 80% of the mechanical input to the alt, comes back out as electricity...
53.3 × .80 = 42.6
So, for every 42.6 A, the alt consumes 1 HP.
Now of course that doesn't include friction in the bearings, the power it takes to drive the cooling fan, or friction in the brushes (if any), or the power consumed by the electronic commutator. Let's assume that that's equal to the actual mech/elect conversion load, at full load. In that case, the alt will use 1 HP for every 21 A of alt output, or thereabouts, at full load.
But as we all know, things like bearing friction are largely load-independent, and the cooling fan certainly is... so the REAL alt load probably goes from the about the 1 HP for 42.6 A of CAPACITY at 0 load, to about 1 HP per 21 A of ACTUAL load at full capacity. So for a 160 A alt, the load is probably around 4 HP at no-load and rises to 8 HP at full load.