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another ?, intake removal

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Old 03-14-2017, 08:17 PM   #1
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Default another ?, intake removal

when you remove the intake after all the bolts are removed (except the back 4 of course), do you lift up as high as you can and then pull forward about 6 inches or so (to get the MAP sensor and small vacuum hose removed) I'm pretty sure since this is my first time removing the intake, I'm going to break the OPSU. Also upon reinstalling, maybe have the OPSU socket on the sensor to help prevent breaking the sensor until I get the routing of the brake booster hose in place.
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Old 03-14-2017, 08:40 PM   #2
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Yes, you do lift the intake and pull it forward to remove the lines in the rear. I don't think there is much danger of damaging the OPSU if you're careful. It's actually well behind the intake and out of harms way. Just take it slow and try not to bump things when working. Reinstall it the same way. Once the hoses and connections are back in place, set it back into position and bolt it down.
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Old 03-15-2017, 08:19 AM   #3
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I just removed my LS6 intake and replaced it with a FAST intake, and it was my first time removing the intake. It really wasn't too bad. You are correct in that you will need to lift up and pull the intake forward in order to reach the MAP sensor and vacuum hose. I didn't even realize there was good chance of breaking the OPSU until after I had already done the swap. I guess I got lucky and didn't break mine because when I started the car up after the swap, my oil pressure gauge is working like a champ.

It was a pain in the *** trying to get the last 4 back bolts to stay up when trying to remove/pull the intake forward. If you have a couple big rubber-bands, you can put them on the bolts (one rubber band will go from one bolt to the bolt directly across from it, hence why you'd need two). This will allow tension to be placed on the bolts and keep them from dropping back down.
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:45 AM   #4
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It was a pain in the *** trying to get the last 4 back bolts to stay up when trying to remove/pull the intake forward. If you have a couple big rubber-bands, you can put them on the bolts (one rubber band will go from one bolt to the bolt directly across from it, hence why you'd need two). This will allow tension to be placed on the bolts and keep them from dropping back down.
I've done mine twice so far, it's not too bad, but that is a great idea about using the rubber bands to hold the bolts up.
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Old 03-15-2017, 11:31 AM   #5
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I've done mine twice so far, it's not too bad, but that is a great idea about using the rubber bands to hold the bolts up.
I didn't think about doing that until after I already got the intake off. I fought with it for a few minutes, but it wasn't too bad. It would definitely help though.
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Old 03-15-2017, 07:20 PM   #6
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thanks for all the help, just when I saw pics of an LS1 engine from the rear, it looked like when looking at it from the front, it was the intake, the OPSU and then the brake booster hose. Here is a pic I just found, pic credit goes to 97ss497

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Old 03-19-2017, 10:31 AM   #7
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Do like I did and get the $60 parts from jegs to do remote mount for the sensor. I did this three years ago and never have to worry about breaking it again
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Old 04-11-2017, 02:53 PM   #8
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getting there
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Old 04-11-2017, 06:56 PM   #9
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I pulled up and to the left for the hose to clear the Oil sensor.
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Old 04-12-2017, 08:05 PM   #10
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getting ready to make my cut on the block so my LS6 valley cover will fit. I read on LS1howto you cant cover the bay up good enough to do this. I wiped the inside of the valley where I'm going to make my cut, stuff some shop towels in the 2 holes in the valley; taped it off right around where I'm making the cut, added plastic, taped that down; added another sheet of plastic and then added some shop towels on top of that. Excessive?, maybe, but I can understand why you wouldn't want ANY metal shavings getting in the valley.
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Old 04-12-2017, 08:34 PM   #11
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In hindsight i did a poor job of covering up when i made that cut. Luckily nothing ever came of it.
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Old 04-12-2017, 08:47 PM   #12
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Excuse my ignorance but I never seen or heard of cutting the boss down. What block and intake combo would require this?
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Old 04-13-2017, 09:53 AM   #13
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Clothes pins work better than rubber bands

Never had a problem with the oil pressure switch. I always disconnected the hose at the booster and then would lift the intake slowly to make sure everything was good.
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Old 04-13-2017, 10:24 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Excuse my ignorance but I never seen or heard of cutting the boss down. What block and intake combo would require this?
I believe it's mainly for fitting the LS6 valley cover on an LS1 and possibly the truck motors as well.
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Old 04-13-2017, 01:50 PM   #15
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yes that is correct, I'm installing a 2004+ LS6 valley cover, doing the PCV upgrade. and chrysler kid, never thought of that, ill do that on the reinstall, the rubber bands worked but it was still kinda tight getting them on.
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Old 04-13-2017, 03:50 PM   #16
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A-ha. thanks.

The last couple times I had an intake on and off I used electrical tape to hold the bolts up. Going back on, once the intake is in place just pull the tape and easy to remove. I leave them like a flag so they are easy to get to.
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Old 04-14-2017, 02:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrysler kid View Post
Clothes pins work better than rubber bands

Never had a problem with the oil pressure switch. I always disconnected the hose at the booster and then would lift the intake slowly to make sure everything was good.
Thats the method I always use. Clothes pins FTW
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