Meziere EWP or stock pump? Help me decide!
09-12-2017, 10:01 AM
#21
That's the direction this is heading.
Now I just have to figure out how I want to wire it. I'm considering a two relay system, with one relay being the "main" running relay, which I can trigger via an ignition 12v or with the fuel pump trigger.
The second relay would tie in after the "main" relay and be triggered manually via a switch in the cabin.
I'm also going to wire in a led indicator showing power is being sent to the pump. Ideally, I'd like a light to show that the pump is actually running, but I'm not sure how to go about that.
09-12-2017, 12:32 PM
#22
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That's the direction this is heading.
Now I just have to figure out how I want to wire it. I'm considering a two relay system, with one relay being the "main" running relay, which I can trigger via an ignition 12v or with the fuel pump trigger.
The second relay would tie in after the "main" relay and be triggered manually via a switch in the cabin.
I'm also going to wire in a led indicator showing power is being sent to the pump. Ideally, I'd like a light to show that the pump is actually running, but I'm not sure how to go about that.
Now I just have to figure out how I want to wire it. I'm considering a two relay system, with one relay being the "main" running relay, which I can trigger via an ignition 12v or with the fuel pump trigger.
The second relay would tie in after the "main" relay and be triggered manually via a switch in the cabin.
I'm also going to wire in a led indicator showing power is being sent to the pump. Ideally, I'd like a light to show that the pump is actually running, but I'm not sure how to go about that.
Be careful how you wire the dual relays. I've seen guys double wire the trigger wire and accidentally run the fuel pump and the water pump together with the cabin switch.
09-12-2017, 01:43 PM
#23
I don't know about showing the pump is actually running, but you can easily do an indicator to tell you you have 12V on the switched side.
Be careful how you wire the dual relays. I've seen guys double wire the trigger wire and accidentally run the fuel pump and the water pump together with the cabin switch.
Be careful how you wire the dual relays. I've seen guys double wire the trigger wire and accidentally run the fuel pump and the water pump together with the cabin switch.
I had thought about that. If I run the relay in the cabin switched circuit off a BAT. 12v and the "main" relay off of an ignition 12v trigger or fuel pump trigger it should be good. The "main" relay would have to be open with the cabin switch closed to prevent cross feed however.
09-12-2017, 11:55 PM
#24
I don't know about showing the pump is actually running, but you can easily do an indicator to tell you you have 12V on the switched side.
Be careful how you wire the dual relays. I've seen guys double wire the trigger wire and accidentally run the fuel pump and the water pump together with the cabin switch.
Be careful how you wire the dual relays. I've seen guys double wire the trigger wire and accidentally run the fuel pump and the water pump together with the cabin switch.
Also no need for "complicated" redundant relay set up, easy to wire/install a manual over ride switch..i think your over thinking it and doubting the reliability of a quality EWP.
09-13-2017, 09:02 AM
#26
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only way to know/display the pump was actually running would be to measure its currant draw. Could be done with a ammeter with a shunt or perhaps that make fancy amp guages with a inductive pick ups now days.
Also no need for "complicated" redundant relay set up, easy to wire/install a manual over ride switch..i think your over thinking it and doubting the reliability of a quality EWP.
Also no need for "complicated" redundant relay set up, easy to wire/install a manual over ride switch..i think your over thinking it and doubting the reliability of a quality EWP.
I probably am overthiking the over-ride switch, but I have seen where guys have done a single relay and their fuel pump sits there and runs with the water pump.
09-13-2017, 10:16 AM
#27
I'm not doubting it at all. The street pump is supposed to be rated for 2000 hours. Converting to miles, that's close to 100,000 assuming mixed driving.
I probably am overthiking the over-ride switch, but I have seen where guys have done a single relay and their fuel pump sits there and runs with the water pump.
I probably am overthiking the over-ride switch, but I have seen where guys have done a single relay and their fuel pump sits there and runs with the water pump.
09-13-2017, 10:52 AM
#28
This is essentially the plan i was leaning towards. The only difference is I was planning on having the manual switch activate a relay to run the pump. That's were the second relay was coming in. The first relay could be activated by the same wire that activates the fuel pump relay as you suggested.
09-14-2017, 09:00 PM
#31
standard 12V 1-3amp diode. Your just using it so that your over ride switch for the EWP dosnt backfeed the fuel pump relay wire from the PCM. The driver from the PCM to the fuel pump relay is a low currant so the diode dosnt need to handle lots of currant(1/4-1/2 amp at most)
09-17-2017, 11:35 AM
#33
what? I've never a herd if a blocking Diode as that what a Diode does....it blocks the path of one or the other polarity or in the case of a Ziener Diode blocks currant flow unit a voltage threadhold is obtained.
09-18-2017, 04:57 PM
#35
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Man you guys are really over thinking the wiring of a ewp.
I simply went off a circut already in my fuse box that was switched. Use a funky fuse connector thing i could plug directly into for power. Bam.....wired and fised almost in one shot.
I simply went off a circut already in my fuse box that was switched. Use a funky fuse connector thing i could plug directly into for power. Bam.....wired and fised almost in one shot.
09-26-2017, 06:45 PM
#37
Finally got this pump in and running. I employed what used to be the air pump relay. Used an ignition 12v for hot side of trigger. Ran the ground side of the trigger through a cabin mounted toggle so that I can shut down the pump in situations where I want key on but not the pump. While I was in there, I added a toggle so that I can force on my fans.
With this pump the motor definitely runs cooler in cruise and idle situations. Before I left the garage I let it idle for close to half an hour while watching the temp, looking for leaks, burping the air etc. Never climbed over 180 and never kicked on high speed fan. With the mechanical pump it would have fluctuated between 195 and 205 ish, alternating between low and high speed fans.
During the initial test drive, I did a good hard pull to 100. Coolant temp jumped up to 200 right after, but came down to 180 quickly. Hard to say if the car gained any power, it felt like it did but could just be my imagination as I've been driving my bone stock ws6 which is much less powerful.
Overall I'm happy with the pump so far.
With this pump the motor definitely runs cooler in cruise and idle situations. Before I left the garage I let it idle for close to half an hour while watching the temp, looking for leaks, burping the air etc. Never climbed over 180 and never kicked on high speed fan. With the mechanical pump it would have fluctuated between 195 and 205 ish, alternating between low and high speed fans.
During the initial test drive, I did a good hard pull to 100. Coolant temp jumped up to 200 right after, but came down to 180 quickly. Hard to say if the car gained any power, it felt like it did but could just be my imagination as I've been driving my bone stock ws6 which is much less powerful.
Overall I'm happy with the pump so far.