TII_Arekusu

Seems more in depth than ignition, accessories and headers; so I posted it here.

Ok, I searched, and the last post that came close was from 2010 with no follow up from the original poster.

-1983 Monte Carlo, in the process of finishing the swap.
-Lq4 and T-56. The starter came with the LQ4
- PSI harness (if that matters)

I have the purple wire (80's g-body) connected to the starter.
My battery was at 12.2 volts and the starter was receiving 12.1 volts.
No pcm connected, all I'm looking to do is see if the engine cranks.

Right now the starter just makes a solid "clang". I've turned the harmonic balancer by hand and tried again, same result. I un-bolted the starter and tested the starter through the car wiring, the starter does indeed turn. So this makes me think it's not shimmed correctly.. but this is a d*mn LSX, who shims a starter anymore?!

Car has a ZO6 clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel kit on it.. all new. I put that on almost a year and a half ago. I want to say the shim on the LQ4 was removed, pilot bushing installed. Transmission is completely bolted up.

I guess the reason for this post is to try and save my arms and back from pulling the transmission to look at this starter. If that's the end result, fine, but this is my last ditch effort before things get serious. Sorry if I posted this in the wrong spot, please move as appropriate if needed. Thanks for the read

Alex

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Is the engine grounded properly? Run a ground strap from the battery negative terminal to the engine block. I’ve ran into this before.
If grounding is good, make sure your battery is good. 12 volts is one thing, the ability to produce enough cranking amps is another.
If that checks out good, pull the spark plugs and make sure engine turns over easily with a socket/long breaker bar.

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

And I suppose that the starter could be faulty under load at the end of the day...I’ve NEVER shimmed a starter on an ls engine.

TII_Arekusu

Hi Che70velle -

The battery is located in the trunk and is grounded directly to the frame. I'll pick up a couple grounding straps from the parts store and run one from the block to frame and from body to frame. I'll try that later tonight. Thanks for the quick reply.

Alex

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Battery in trunk for me also. My ground goes all the way to my engine. Jump from there to frame. Jump from there to firewall bracket. Most of mine and your electronics...requiring a good ground...are the engine sensors. The required grounds to run the rest of the car, most of them are under the dash.
I did jump a #8 ground from my battery to my trunk floor, to help eliminate a bad stereo whine.
Let us know how this is going.

G Atsma

Not only with the hitech stuff we have now. My '80 ford F-150 always had instrument fluctuation problems. Changed the IVR (instrument voltage regulator) a few times, still had issues. Finally someone said grounds were the cause. I found some large gauge scrap wire and proceeded to put grounds between EVERYTHING practical. Problem solved.

TII_Arekusu

Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately I've been more busy with work this week than I anticipated. Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to give this a shot. Tonight I picked up a ground cable from the parts house. But from how these replies are reading, I may need two or three more. Hey, whatever works right? haha. I'll let you know how this goes. I'm sure I'm not the only one this has happened too.

Alex

TII_Arekusu

Well Che70velle was right, it needed another ground. I ended up putting a ground from the frame to the back of the passenger head and now IT CRANKS! I plan on also putting one from the body to frame after I run to the store again.

I'm sure most knew this would solve the problem but I thought it'd be necessary to follow up in case someone else searches for an answer like I was. Thanks guys!

Alex

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the follow up.