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I think I got the right idea, looking for some $0.02
I have (under construction) a 1998 S-10 with a L33 (5.3)... Ed Curtis Cam, Ported Polished, LS6 Intake, Circle D 3k - built 4L60, 8.8 w/3.73
I am running the Stainless Works 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers.
If I got this right, the best path would be run an X-pipe and tails.
In order for me to run an X pipe I will have to crossover from the drivers side to the passenger side, run the X, then run both pipes down passenger side (Fuel Tank Reasons)
Does the unequal length before the X-Pipe have a negative effect?
Would true-duals or a Y-Pipe be better?
ALSO, Keep everything 3" from the collector to the bumper or should I drop/increase diameter somewhere?
I attached a picture I found where somebody ran a similar setup so you can see the unequal length before the X I'm referring to.
I don't see a problem with the exhaust set up as pictured. I can't imagine that the unequal length will sacrifice much power, if any. Keeping it 3" all the way should be more than adequate for your build.
x-pipe placement is actually somewhat critical if you're really looking for it to do something, but for a street application it usually doesn't matter much because fitment takes precedence over proper placement.
it will sound nice and perform well, so i wouldn't worry about it.
On a street driven 5.3 I'd go with a dual 2.5" instead of 3. It'll keep your power band a bit lower which makes for a nicer around town ride.
this is actually a false statement, engine masters did a direct comparison same engine dyno, back to back and 3inch did not lose anywhere and gained over the 2.5
this is actually a false statement, engine masters did a direct comparison same engine dyno, back to back and 3inch did not lose anywhere and gained over the 2.5
Not false at all. Try to find a dyno run that starts below 3k rpm. Looking at dyno numbers is the biggest problem in hot rodding. For a street car you want torque off idle. High rpm hp is basically useless around town. Too much exhaust hurts low end torque.
Not false at all. Try to find a dyno run that starts below 3k rpm. Looking at dyno numbers is the biggest problem in hot rodding. For a street car you want torque off idle. High rpm hp is basically useless around town. Too much exhaust hurts low end torque.
Lol that is just ridiculous, even though the graph starts at 3k there is peak gains of 15.7 TQ and 13 HP and those are just peak the gains all threw the curve the 3in just has massive gains over the 2.5in maybe around 1k rpm you MIGHT give up a couple hp but there is not even any proof of that so in your overall buy your exhaust once and leave nothing on the table and then you know your system will never hold you back
Heres the graph I was talking about you can see even though the graph is starting at 3k there is no real difference between the 2 so why would you want to run the 2.5 and give up all that power threw the curve if you're "hot rodding" around town and end up racing someone dont you want to make more power than that other person? also if you end up racing someone from a dig who isent putting there foot on the break an spinning the rpm up a little bit? no one is racing from a dead idle to 2,500 rpm if that is where the 2.5 is suppose to out perform the 3in
Also somthing to mention OP said he has a 3k converter
Heres the graph I was talking about you can see even though the graph is starting at 3k there is no real difference between the 2 so why would you want to run the 2.5 and give up all that power threw the curve if you're "hot rodding" around town and end up racing someone dont you want to make more power than that other person? also if you end up racing someone from a dig who isent putting there foot on the break an spinning the rpm up a little bit? no one is racing from a dead idle to 2,500 rpm if that is where the 2.5 is suppose to out perform the 3in
Also somthing to mention OP said he has a 3k converter
I agree with your view in general. Got dual 3 inch if at all possible. Power wise it's the better choice.
The dual 2.5 should be better than a a 3 inch Y pipe set up, I think too.
I would like to point out the 2.5 should give a hair more ground clearance if the fitment is good. I went with a 2.5 dual x pipe set up on my 416 TA because giving up 10-15 hp up is acceptable to get another 1/4 of grounds clearance on my lowered car. Wanted to avoid scrapping when pulling in or out of my driveway etc. The dyno test you referenced was why I picked the 2.5 set up - the power loss wasn't 50 hp etc. The dyno showed the loss was small enough I was OK with accepting it. For my car street able ground clearance was more important. That might be true sometimes for other folks too.
So on a 600 hp race motor you'll see a 20 hp increase which has nothing at all to do with a street driven 5.3. Here's a write up for the average person
Headers are very open in stock car racing, despite the RPM's they turn, many use tri-Y stepped headers for the short tracks, and not many run long tubes on the big tracks, most run a mid length stepped header with boom tubes. (Random observation which may have no point whatsoever... )
For my Jeep YJ my plan was almost identical to the pic above,, same issues, fitment/sound/fuel tank... there just are not that many options one a jeep and remain stealth enough to get through the DEQ testing where I live. I was planning on dual 2.5 to the front of the mufflers, then a 2-1 to a 3" out the back.. Maybe not perfect but I am not racing or doing any bolt ons, just a swap and tune.. I'm still going from 125 to 300+ HP, doubt I'll care..
Headers are very open in stock car racing, despite the RPM's they turn, many use tri-Y stepped headers for the short tracks, and not many run long tubes on the big tracks, most run a mid length stepped header with boom tubes. (Random observation which may have no point whatsoever... )
For my Jeep YJ my plan was almost identical to the pic above,, same issues, fitment/sound/fuel tank... there just are not that many options one a jeep and remain stealth enough to get through the DEQ testing where I live. I was planning on dual 2.5 to the front of the mufflers, then a 2-1 to a 3" out the back.. Maybe not perfect but I am not racing or doing any bolt ons, just a swap and tune.. I'm still going from 125 to 300+ HP, doubt I'll care..
Trying to get engine swapped cars and trucks through inspections can be a nightmare. I always found it was easier to have a friend in the business and pay in cash along with a small tip for his good service. I ended up moving to a state without inspections so mods are a lot easier to deal with now lol
this is actually a false statement, engine masters did a direct comparison same engine dyno, back to back and 3inch did not lose anywhere and gained over the 2.5
i didn't watch this episode, but 600+ hp? not a stock motor. Was it even an LS?
you start needing 3" duals around that point... the amount of exhaust gas volume and power you are making matter with exhaust size.
at least a H/C LS? I say 3" duals all day long. stock or bolt-on? nah. 2.5" duals, 3" from the header collector up until the x-pipe or h.
i've seen posts of a dyno with a 6.0 LS2, no other mods, 3" exhaust, and it lost a little low end, and made around the same peak power. 3" can be too large, depending.
Not sure what OP has done to the motor, but it's worth considering.
all the same, he'll be fine with 3" all the way back duals. at the very least it will give him room to grow. the most he will lose is a few ft-lbs of torque on the low end. however, I wouldn't go larger unless a nice amount of boost is added.
So on a 600 hp race motor you'll see a 20 hp increase which has nothing at all to do with a street driven 5.3. Here's a write up for the average person
okay so lets take a look at this set up 9.9:1 compression, stock untouched heads, baby cam, a crap performer intake and probably the worst choice ever as far as carbs go quad junk carb on a GEN 1 355 and they lost only a couple at 4k your recommendation on op's build set up is a bad one just accept it......
op says he is getting a custom spec cam which with a 3k converter id imagine being bigger than the cam they used in that dyno pull along with an ls6 intake which flows more than the tiny perfomer intake and he made a comment about port and polish which i would think hes talking heads all out of a GEN 3 or + motor which these things love to breath hes wanting to make the most power with his set up so once again to op keep your 3in set up and dont look back you will never have to mess with the exhaust again
I agree with your view in general. Got dual 3 inch if at all possible. Power wise it's the better choice.
The dual 2.5 should be better than a a 3 inch Y pipe set up, I think too.
I would like to point out the 2.5 should give a hair more ground clearance if the fitment is good. I went with a 2.5 dual x pipe set up on my 416 TA because giving up 10-15 hp up is acceptable to get another 1/4 of grounds clearance on my lowered car. Wanted to avoid scrapping when pulling in or out of my driveway etc. The dyno test you referenced was why I picked the 2.5 set up - the power loss wasn't 50 hp etc. The dyno showed the loss was small enough I was OK with accepting it. For my car street able ground clearance was more important. That might be true sometimes for other folks too.
right on i mean if ground clearance was the issue here i would say sure 2.5 would be a better option but OP is wanting the best performance overall and is driving an s10 pick up and already has 3in so for someone to recommend him to goto 2.5 from already having a 3in is just dumb also i think you maybe right on the 2.5 duals being better than a 3in y depending on how the merge collector is designed
right on i mean if ground clearance was the issue here i would say sure 2.5 would be a better option but OP is wanting the best performance overall and is driving an s10 pick up and already has 3in so for someone to recommend him to goto 2.5 from already having a 3in is just dumb also i think you maybe right on the 2.5 duals being better than a 3in y depending on how the merge collector is designed
You love to keep saying 2.5 is dumb but you really have nothing to base it on. He's building a mild performance 5.3. There's a good chance of finding a bolt in kit or having a shop fab up a 2.5 since it's a common size. It also keeps the low end torque. It also has a better chance of fitting. I've had s10s and it's amazing how tight certain areas can be. There's nothing from the original post that makes the extra work or cost of bigger pipes necessary. If it's getting a turbo later than definitely go bigger.
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