The entire problem is these damn tunnel mounted torque arms. Just not enough room inside the tunnel brace for a nice merge unless you run a drop brace. I am running the BMR tunnel mount with straight brace but its a tight squeeze. My merge is not more than 1/4" away from the driveshaft and the brace but it doesn't touch either so far.

 

 

Is the car lowered at all? The SE true duals have a midpipe that is oval on the driver side like the TSP, it's the SE Y pipe that doesn't have the oval which presents more of a ground clearance challenged on lowered setups.

The lowest point on a SE true dual setup isn't going to be the driver side area after the collector, it's going to be the X member if you have a short tunnel mounted torque arm. But if you get a UMI tunnel mount torque arm with the flat cross member you should be fine.

My setup is more about limiting fuel smell and ability to quiet/free up power while having best ground clearance possible with a shorty torque arm setup while being lowered 1.5 inches. If you have a long torque arm that isn't tunnel mounted, it completely changes the game. Not being lowered also changes the game. Also with SE launching their own TA next week, you may be able to go that route.

The one thing that will still be there even if you have a long torque arm and are not lowered is the loudness. Many try to quiet down the SE true dual by installing bullet mufflers. There's very limited options for trying to quiet down that setup or any true dual setup, so I opted for this Y pipe/cutout setup which gives more flexibility for cats, mufflers, etc to install in the intermediate pipe and after. There's room to put in another resonator in the intermediate pipe even on this setup before the cat.

 

I’m currently on stock springs but I have been considering going with a strano/Koni set up. I have a borla cat back now with stock exhaust manifolds and I’m looking for something louder and deeper. I’m not too concerned about fuel smell or noise for what I use the car for.

Currently suspension is all stock, but I’ve been looking at some MWC parts and possibly one of their torque arms but I’m open to any quality parts.

There is a little hump at the beginning of my driveway that I need to clear. Nothing crazy, but I don’t want to rub every time I pull in and out.

 

In that case, I would just get the SE true duals and long tubes and get a long style aftermarket torque arm when the time comes. Skip the strano/koni setup and save for the UMI/Afco coil over setup. Don't get talked into the Viking coil over setup which is less comfortable on the road. I'll be swapping to UMI/Afco once I get done with my battery relocation and coil pack relocation projects.

 

 

I'd check with Sam Strano on his recommendation of koni/stano vs UMI/Afco for your application. He sells both.

 

 

Idle with cutouts closed and idle with cutouts open. These videos don't sound anything like they do in person.

 

 

There is a loss of 24 rwhp with the cutouts closed.

 

Wow! and you have a pretty good flowing system after the cutouts