Many replace the muffler in the SLP loudmouth catback. There are also some over the axle single exit exhaust systems (hawks sinister, mufflex...) not sure if any can be ordered with a dynomax bullet. Take a look through this thread for some single exit options https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...t-muffler.html

 

Could always get the pre-bent Dynomax OTA and Intermediate pipe and put a bullet on that. It’ll be similar to the Mufflex or Hawks setup.

 

Cheap way is just cut off your current muffler and put the new one in its place with a single drivers side outlet.

If you want it to look a bit more polished get a y in your pipe size and run it after the muffler. Then you can run some pipe across to the passenger side to provide you with dual tips like factory. The drop in overall size between the stock type muffler and the bullet will give you the space to run the passenger pipe across.

 

You're gonna have to fabricate your own. Dynomax used to have this muffler delete pipe that replaces the actual muffler in the rear. I dont know if they still make them. You're gonna have to cut the intermediate pipe and weld in the muffler there. I bought my exhaust system in pieces for example I made my own y pipe over the stock one using a 2 1/2 to 3 inch flowmaster merge, 3in and 3out Dynomax racing bullet #24222 and I used the Dynomax #53365 muffler delete.

 

This'll be a long post but I have gone through a couple of exhaust systems so I have a lot of info to share. Dynomax bullet is just a perforated glasspack. Nothing special. So given your situation, what I would do would depend upon your circumstances. If you wish to go the route of a glasspack with these cars it can quickly become a disaster. First of all the nature of the y-pipe induces a small problem called rasp. This particular really shows up in the 3500 RPM range and up. Using catalytic converters and a turbo style Muffler greatly reduces the amount of rasp that you here. Whether you cut out the cats or you keep them, using a bullet muffler will greatly increase the amount of rasp you hear from the exhaust system as well as drone.

​​​​​​Now keeping that in mind there are few more things I would like to say.

You claim that your MagnaFlow exhaust is Rusty, this I find strange because I had their system on my car previously and it was a 304 stainless Muffler which is known not to rust. It may discolour through neglect but it shouldn't rust. The pipes should be 409 stainless which may turn a strange brownish colour. I found the this kit is actually pretty good. But if yours is rusting that I am not quite sure what kit was installed on your car. The kit that I had on my car was part number 15684.

Posting a few pics here would help us determine what system you have and what we have to work with.

If the pipes are all rusty than I really don't see a reason why you would keep the exhaust has a whole anyways. In my opinion it is time for an upgrade.

If all you really want is just to change the muffler then you can simply bring it to any reputable shop around you and they will take care of you. Although just thinking about it it seems like if you want to run two tailpipes, it will cost you a pretty penny to Fab it up. They would likely just build you a true dual system that would have to Route over the axle which would require a upper panhard bar relocation kit so that the two pipes can run over the axle. I would then run small bullets just before the tailpipes. Or just like the muffler on it now they will have the one pipe route over the axle and then split off into two pipes and then attach bullets either to those two pipes just before the tailpipe or one bullet in the I pipe.

Now I would do it this way. If you don't live in commiefornia, I would get some Stainless longtube Headers from Texas speed or speed engineering. Then I would just grab Speed Engineering true dual exhaust. They sell a dumped version for $289. You would be in the whole system less than $700 and all of this would net you a great increase in torque. There are a couple ways to deal with the 02s. You can either use simulators or tune it out it's up to you. This setup will net you a very deep aggressive town that will not have any rasp. Of course if you use any dumped system you must ensure that the tips are turned 45 degrees away from the ground. I have this system on my car and there is no drone while cruising on the streets and there is no drone while cruising on the freeway. Of course even light acceleration is very loud and aggressive. Once the car kicks into 4th gear it becomes comfortable.

Going through that sort of work doesn't entertain you, I do know that lots of people are very happy with the loud mouth 2 system. Just make sure you do not buy the loudmouth 1, that system is ridiculously annoying. The proper part number for the loudmouth 2 would be 31043A. Stock y-pipe will not fit into the 3-inch pipe on that system.

 

I believe I've got a nice set-up for my previous dillema.

It's the Hooker Blackheart True Dual Exhaust System paired with their 1 3/4" x 3" Midlength Headers. I'll obviously be getting the cats tuned out. Is there any issues that people are known to have with this setup/any of these parts? I'll leave part numbers below for clarification

Exhaust Catback: 70501413-RHKR
Exhaust Headers: 70201301-RHKR

Thanks again.

 

Why would you run midlength headers.

 

Is there an issue with midlengths?

 

Its not a longtube. You're leaving power on the table.

 

You can get Speed Engineering Stainless Headers and their true dual dumped exhaust for around $600 total and you will have a huge increase in power and attitude.

 

RPM counts on the header package, TriY steppers will give have a really great power band, and I think sound a little better on a street car.. Plus WAY easier to install than a longtime setup on some configurations..

Heads+cam+Intake+tune+header design to get the full end result, with the wrong cam long tubes can kill the engine output... Same as most block huggers really don't beat a factory cast exhaust manifold by enough to be worth it..

In my experience long tubes kinda rule the pin it and go till you hit the trap, mid tube or try-y's own the low to mid range punch/torque zone.. YMMV..

 

I have a Dynomouth and its ok. I did it because I already had the loudmouth system. Once I added headers and off road y it had a lot of rasp. The dynomax helped. I have been thinking about redoing my exhaust because it is really loud. If I do it or had to do it over again I would like to try a TSP system with a cutout

 

Hopefully got it figured out. Going to get the Speed Engineering longtube 1 3/4” Headers along with their true dual rear exit exhaust. I like the look, but don’t really enjoy having to relocate the Panhard bar :/. I know I can get dumps to avoid this issue, but again, I prefer seeing nice big tips out the end of my cars. I’ll order the parts here in about a week and get them on and (hopefully) remember to update this. Thanks everyone for the suggestions and help!

 

You've made an excellent choice. The panhard relocation is easy and looks better anyways. Make sure you take your time when adjusting the pipes to get it to tuck up nicely. I had to mess with it for a few days before I got my where I liked it and that was just with the dumped exhaust. There is plenty of info on one of these threads for the Speed Engineering kit. Some lower guys were very successful with adjusting the pipes in such a way but there were no clears issues with their lowered cars.

 

The first thing I want you to do when you get that kit is you need to take the bolts and go to Ace Hardware and get the equivalent bolts in grade 8. Make sure you also get lock washers and the Nuts for the bolts. The clamps are fine but the hardware that came with them isn't too good. It shouldn't cost you much at all. I have not had any issues with any bolts backing out of my system. Everything is nice and tight and my only tool was a half inch ratchet and whatever socket size the bolts were. Please do not try to run the stock Hardware that comes with the clamps that will just give you headaches.

 

 

Do their new kits provide the additional hanger? If not they sell them separately. It was a revision that may not have made it into their product line yet but I'm sure that would help. Although some people have had success without the additional hanger. Just play with the pipes until you get it right. I had to sit back and study the pipes for a minute so I knew exactly what would happen as I rotate each one.