fakky

^^^ Didnt format well.

You will see the lists in yellow of what to remove (AC/OIL etc)

fakky

Also see here

Minute 7.00

Kawabuggy

iTrader: (1)

Neat video.. So, yes, I deleted everything A/C related, and the oil level sensor, EGR, EVAP emmisions (gas tank purge solenoid), Engine Coolant level switch wiring, fuel tank pressure sensor, fuel level sensor ground, delivered torque signal, got deleted as well.. I did KEEP the oil pressure sending unit tied to the PCM. I'm hoping that I can make the factory sensor work with my after market gauges, we shall see how that works out. I think in factory form, the pcm uses a single wire to feed all the gauges on the dash. So, instead of voltage, or current, the 1 wire actually sends signals of some sort (serial data), that the gauges on the dash interpret and then display based on the signals received. At least this is how I "think" it works. I will have to dig deeper into this once my gauges get here and I start wiring them up. Otherwise, I will just have to connect the gauges on the dash directly to the specific sensors needed to make the dash gauges work. I'm not quite there yet.

fakky

Cool.
Thats what I was wondering if there was a different voltage of the sensor range or something that doesnt work in aftermarket generally ........ thats interesting about the single data single also --- makes sens for reading the funtions these daya via the OBDII port ...... just not sure which go through that mechanism and which are a direct to gauge if any these days.

What vehicle are you going into and with what engine/trans/combo other etc ?

Kawabuggy

iTrader: (1)

I'm putting a 2000 Chevy Silverado LM7/5.3L, 4L60E, into a 1970 Chevrolet C-10 pick up truck. Today I finished up all of the wiring, and repinning the computer, except for 8 wires from the neutral safety switch-4 that go to the PCM, and 4 other wires that previously went to the bottom of the fuse box. That's it. Then I'm going to start the engine and make sure it all works. I've got the wiring just laying in the engine bay at this time with the PCM laying on the fender. Using a jump box to power everything. If it fires, and runs, then I will unplug the PCM, move to inside the cab, and then run the two connectors through the firewall and plug them back in, then wrap up the wiring, and then.... Move on to installing the new A/C system.

I still need to figure out how to tie the after-market A/C system into the PCM such that the PCM will raise the idle speed when the A/C is "ON", or the compressor running. I see wire Pin 17 DK GRN/WHT A/C REQUEST SIGNAL.. Can anyone confirm if I can accomplish what I'm wanting to do in this manner?