Help Me Turbo My Truck
06-26-2018, 07:18 PM
#1
Help Me Turbo My Truck Like the title says, I'm in the planning stages of putting a turbo on my truck. Truck is a 2002 Chevy Silverado Single cab. Currently has an LQ9 in it that is *okay*, but I need more.
I have lots of questions, but I'll break it down into 3 segments; Engine, Turbo Kit & General ???'s..
Engine: I have a LQ4 w/317's sitting on my shop floor complete from intake to pan. I plan on boring the block .030", running some type of forged pistons, factory floating pin rods, factory crank-balance the entire bottom end. Home port the 317's, and put double springs in. ARP head stud kit. I will probably run the Sloppy Stage 2 cam/Elgin E1840P cam. What should my target compression be? Can you guys recommend a decent set of forged pistons to get me close to the desired compression ratio?
Turbo Kit; I found this kit: http://www.vsracing.net/catalog/prod...76c8dbd87cff00 on the sloppy mechanics web page. I will do the injector, Walbro pump, and 3" piping kit upgrades. What do I use for exhaust manifolds? I have several sets of truck manifolds and have a TIG welder. I think I can cut up and weld together some factory cast manifolds to use with this kit. Any other upgrades I need to think about?
General ??: What side of the engine bay should I mount the turbo on? Instead of the kit above, would it be easier for mounting, and pipe routing, to buy 2 smaller turbos and have one on each side of the engine bay for simplicity? When the exhaust gasses exit the turbo do you route them through a regular exhaust with mufflers? This is a street truck so I don't think just dumping the exhaust is going to work.
I don't plan on running more than 10PSI/Lbs. of boost (which is correct PSI, or Lbs??). I am just wanting a truck that will put down 500+RWHP under 6000 RPM. I don't want to twist the crap out of the motor RPM wise trying to make decent power and that is why I'm wanting to go turbo.
I'm really just planning it all out right now. I plan on buying everything first, mocking as much of it up as I can with an engine on an engine stand (fully dressed with accessories so I can see how close everything will be) and only dropping it all in once I have it all pretty much worked out. I have HPTuners and will tune it myself with an improved 2, or 3 bar, sensor.
I'm open to any, and all suggestions. Seriously.. Any tips, or advise would be greatly appreciated. If you guys have any links with pics to other peoples projects doing turbo installs, I would appreciate those as well.
I have lots of questions, but I'll break it down into 3 segments; Engine, Turbo Kit & General ???'s..
Engine: I have a LQ4 w/317's sitting on my shop floor complete from intake to pan. I plan on boring the block .030", running some type of forged pistons, factory floating pin rods, factory crank-balance the entire bottom end. Home port the 317's, and put double springs in. ARP head stud kit. I will probably run the Sloppy Stage 2 cam/Elgin E1840P cam. What should my target compression be? Can you guys recommend a decent set of forged pistons to get me close to the desired compression ratio?
Turbo Kit; I found this kit: http://www.vsracing.net/catalog/prod...76c8dbd87cff00 on the sloppy mechanics web page. I will do the injector, Walbro pump, and 3" piping kit upgrades. What do I use for exhaust manifolds? I have several sets of truck manifolds and have a TIG welder. I think I can cut up and weld together some factory cast manifolds to use with this kit. Any other upgrades I need to think about?
General ??: What side of the engine bay should I mount the turbo on? Instead of the kit above, would it be easier for mounting, and pipe routing, to buy 2 smaller turbos and have one on each side of the engine bay for simplicity? When the exhaust gasses exit the turbo do you route them through a regular exhaust with mufflers? This is a street truck so I don't think just dumping the exhaust is going to work.
I don't plan on running more than 10PSI/Lbs. of boost (which is correct PSI, or Lbs??). I am just wanting a truck that will put down 500+RWHP under 6000 RPM. I don't want to twist the crap out of the motor RPM wise trying to make decent power and that is why I'm wanting to go turbo.
I'm really just planning it all out right now. I plan on buying everything first, mocking as much of it up as I can with an engine on an engine stand (fully dressed with accessories so I can see how close everything will be) and only dropping it all in once I have it all pretty much worked out. I have HPTuners and will tune it myself with an improved 2, or 3 bar, sensor.
I'm open to any, and all suggestions. Seriously.. Any tips, or advise would be greatly appreciated. If you guys have any links with pics to other peoples projects doing turbo installs, I would appreciate those as well.
06-27-2018, 12:52 PM
#2
Why not turbo the existing 6.0? In stock form they take boost very well
Mount the turbo on the side that the kit is made for and check the kit to see which manifolds it uses. A lot of kits keep the driver side manifold and give you a new log manifold for the passenger side that the turbo mounts to
I'd go for around 9.5-10:1 ish compression
PSI is pounds per square inch. So when people say 10 pounds they mean 10 psi
Personally I'm fine with running boost on higher than average compression, i've done it at 10.5:1, but most like to go lower compression, makes them feel better, but the higher compression motor feels better and is more responsive out of boost.
Mount the turbo on the side that the kit is made for and check the kit to see which manifolds it uses. A lot of kits keep the driver side manifold and give you a new log manifold for the passenger side that the turbo mounts to
I'd go for around 9.5-10:1 ish compression
PSI is pounds per square inch. So when people say 10 pounds they mean 10 psi
Personally I'm fine with running boost on higher than average compression, i've done it at 10.5:1, but most like to go lower compression, makes them feel better, but the higher compression motor feels better and is more responsive out of boost.
06-28-2018, 08:22 AM
#4
I think you might be better off running a kit actually made for your truck. Huron Speed makes one as does Trick Performance and kbracing. This way all the guesswork is done and its closer to bolt on and go. Another good source of information is performancetrucks.net which has a forced induction section with lots of builds like this so you can pick the brains of people that have been there and done that.
06-28-2018, 06:34 PM
#5
All great information folks. I sincerely appreciate you sharing your thoughts & opinions.
00pooterSS asked-Why not turbo the existing 6.0? I'm currently over 11:1 compression. I'm actually probably close to 11.4:1. I have milled (.030") 799 heads, flat top pistons, & Cometic .041" head gaskets. I can only run 93 octane right now to avoid pinging. Plus, I think I'm going to gift the existing motor to my son for his truck. He currently has a mildly built 5.3L and of course he is begging for more power. Plus, the engine I have now has hyper-eutectic pistons in it and I really want forged.
PSI is pounds per square inch. So when people say 10 pounds they mean 10 psi. Thank you for that!!! I was so confused because boost gauges always show PSI, and yet every time I hear someone talking about turbos they are saying "lbs/pounds".. Makes sense now.
I think you might be better off running a kit actually made for your truck. I'm actually trying to do this entire swap-including the engine build, for under $3K. The kits made specifically for my truck will blow me out of the water. Plus, I don't mind fabricating, and/or welding. If I can get guidance on the correct size BOV, and BOOST controller, I'll be set. That's why I liked the kit from Sloppy Mechanic.. It is tried, and proven, as he is running that kit and it WORKS. I like copying proven recipes so I thought his kit was a no-brainer. However... The idea of twin turbos does appeal to me. 2 smaller turbos might spool up quicker, and eat up less space under the hood and also would not require a HOT exhaust pipe passing from one side of the motor to the other. Either way, I am going to move forward with just the single turbo kit for now.
On the engine, I tore down an LQ4 today and am set to deliver the block, crank, and rods to the machine shop tomorrow. Can anyone recommend a set of forged pistons for a fair price that will work with the 317 heads, and give me a turbo-friendly compression ratio? My machine shop said "good forged pistons will run $800+ for that engine"... I know the LS1tech collective can point me in the right direction here. I have to get the pistons ordered ASAP so that the machine shop can balance the assembly.
00pooterSS asked-Why not turbo the existing 6.0? I'm currently over 11:1 compression. I'm actually probably close to 11.4:1. I have milled (.030") 799 heads, flat top pistons, & Cometic .041" head gaskets. I can only run 93 octane right now to avoid pinging. Plus, I think I'm going to gift the existing motor to my son for his truck. He currently has a mildly built 5.3L and of course he is begging for more power. Plus, the engine I have now has hyper-eutectic pistons in it and I really want forged.
PSI is pounds per square inch. So when people say 10 pounds they mean 10 psi. Thank you for that!!! I was so confused because boost gauges always show PSI, and yet every time I hear someone talking about turbos they are saying "lbs/pounds".. Makes sense now.
I think you might be better off running a kit actually made for your truck. I'm actually trying to do this entire swap-including the engine build, for under $3K. The kits made specifically for my truck will blow me out of the water. Plus, I don't mind fabricating, and/or welding. If I can get guidance on the correct size BOV, and BOOST controller, I'll be set. That's why I liked the kit from Sloppy Mechanic.. It is tried, and proven, as he is running that kit and it WORKS. I like copying proven recipes so I thought his kit was a no-brainer. However... The idea of twin turbos does appeal to me. 2 smaller turbos might spool up quicker, and eat up less space under the hood and also would not require a HOT exhaust pipe passing from one side of the motor to the other. Either way, I am going to move forward with just the single turbo kit for now.
On the engine, I tore down an LQ4 today and am set to deliver the block, crank, and rods to the machine shop tomorrow. Can anyone recommend a set of forged pistons for a fair price that will work with the 317 heads, and give me a turbo-friendly compression ratio? My machine shop said "good forged pistons will run $800+ for that engine"... I know the LS1tech collective can point me in the right direction here. I have to get the pistons ordered ASAP so that the machine shop can balance the assembly.
06-29-2018, 06:17 PM
#6
Machine shop said I need aftermarket rods. They are recommending Manley H beam rods with the .927" pin bore. He said it opens the door to a larger selection of pistons. They are asking $575 for the rods, and I will get a price on forged pistons on Monday. Block is set to be bored .030", and decked .005-.010" depending on how much it takes to clean up and square the decks. I think if I can find a set of forged pistons that will work with the factory rods, I will be better off. Currently the tune is set up at 5500 max rpm. I plan on leaving it there even with the turbo so I don't think I need the aftermarket rods. The build has officially begun...
I'm still building a 5.3L for another project and it's on the engine stand. I put the heads, valley cover, & knock sensors and knock sensor wiring harness on today so I can drop it in a '70 C10 tomorrow. That will free up the engine stand for when I get the parts back from the machine shop. I assemble all of my own engines so I'm looking forward to this build.
I'm still building a 5.3L for another project and it's on the engine stand. I put the heads, valley cover, & knock sensors and knock sensor wiring harness on today so I can drop it in a '70 C10 tomorrow. That will free up the engine stand for when I get the parts back from the machine shop. I assemble all of my own engines so I'm looking forward to this build.