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I emailed the tuner asking if they were certain they saw my note about the gm55 converter and havent heard back, im sure they are just plain sick of me....and why would they want to deal with a paying customer after they already received my money? So I get it.
yea I don’t like people like that. I always take care of people after I get there money. After all, you make sure they are happy , it’s slmost certain eventually they are going to send someone to you. I build transmissions out of my little workshop. I don’t have a business. Nor do I want one. I pick up units just by word of mouth. I never try on my own.
I think the trailblazer stall is the same weight as a normal convertor. I don’t remember. But it being looser will have less cushion on the rpms when you let off. So that in itself can cause idle issues without a few tune mods.
if you have the stock PCV system on your car and have never changed it.....thats a major vacuum leak right there.....not sayin that it will cure your problem ....just fix one leak
What do you mean stock pcv system? Do they sell aftermarket ones and you need to make it yourself?
I read a post today about the VSS maybe causing it, but my speedometer works fine.
@kfxguy It seems to only do it in first gear, the rest are fine. I can let off the gas doing 40 to a stop and its fine, if I let off the gas while still in first gear is when it has the issues, Throw it in nuetral and its fine. I still havent even tried to look at anything yet on my little ALDL obd2 reader.
Still havent heard anything back from the tuner about it, It makes me want to send my computer out to have someone check it now because I dont know what else it could be. Doing some o2 sensors on my LS430 so when its back up I think I just may send it out. The problem is noone knows what the GM55 converter actually stalls at behind a ls1.
Sounds like a vacuum leak. Check all hoses carefully. Check fuel trim at idle, if it's over 3-4% and especially if it's close to 10% or higher, that's an indicator of a vac leak.
Ill give this a try tonight. Hopefully the tool I have can tell me these values.
A number of times I have had idle issues after reflashing the computer. The most prominent symptom I've had is the "cruise control" effect - holding high rpms while coasting or coming to a stop. This is due to the PCM losing its learned idle settings, and can go on for several weeks before it corrects itself. You may give it some time and see if it evens out.
A number of times I have had idle issues after reflashing the computer. The most prominent symptom I've had is the "cruise control" effect - holding high rpms while coasting or coming to a stop. This is due to the PCM losing its learned idle settings, and can go on for several weeks before it corrects itself. You may give it some time and see if it evens out.
Idle relearn takes about 25 minutes and eliminates the weeks worth of driving with a screwy idle. It's actually recommended anytime the battery is disconnected. It can't fix any mechanical or tuning problems though.
High stall converters(9.5") can cause similar symptoms due the smaller diameter not loading the engine the same, but a TBSS stall shouldn't be an issue. It's still a standard size converter.
Yea you can use non factory parts like 3/8 heater hose....Fyi those lines are notorious for cracking and causing issues like you describe. I would replace them for sure.
yea when I ripped out my EGR and AIR stuff Im thinking maybe something stressed and I just cant find it. Im about to start a cam install so once the VC and coils are off maybe ill be able to access all this stuff a bit better and get it so I know its right. does the 3/8 heater hose work with everything on the car or do I need y fittings too?
Its not a tbss stall, its the 6cyl stall that guys use, not sure how it compares diameter wise.
Good to hear that may be the issue. Got into an argument with the tuner over simply asking if the tune addressed the stall...so that was fun. Figure when its apart for the cam/springs ill look into everything and replace the pcv valve hoses.
Well, I started disassembly for my ws6store hotcam, everything going smoothly so far. Used side cutters and trimmed the spikes above each valve cover, blew through all 10 coil pack mounting bolts in about 15min. Passenger rear bolt took about a minute which I was happy with after reading how much people fuss about it.
anyways the reason for this post is because the problem presented itself.
So yea, the way the hose was routed I couldnt tell anything was messed up. That definitely won't be effected by the carb cleaner method at idle.
so I'll be replacing that and things should be good! Just gotta finish the cam swap up.
Well I got the 3/8th heater hose and left the drivers side valve cover piece complete, slid a piece of hose on it and into a t fitting, from there ran a new line to the pass side valve cover and ditched the whole hardline, cut the hardline to the front near the pcv leaving about 5 inches and slid the hose over it from the T, then used the rest to do the line from the other valve cover to the the TB.
Idle is way better now, pretty much rock steady even with the hotcam, $8 well spent. Shes running pretty good! Glad I left the factory tstat in with the 30 degree temps we just got after a week of high 80's, heat is working awesome with new coolant!
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