LS1 Ground location
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Teching In
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4
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LS1 Ground location i know from looking at the schematics that the 3 ground wires hook up to the back of the head. 2 together in one sport and 1 in another.
Can i place them all at the same spot. I have the intake and everything on and it's really hard to reach the other bolt hole so placing all 3 would make life a lot easier.
Can i place them all at the same spot. I have the intake and everything on and it's really hard to reach the other bolt hole so placing all 3 would make life a lot easier.
You cant have too many grounds. The more the merrier. If you only have one spot that isn't so good but if you can only easily mount to one location with the existing wire length that isnt bad but you need to add more around the chassis and engine. Run a jumper ground from the single location to the battery ground strap on the block. You want to be sure the entire perimeter of the engine and all gasketed parts that have a sensor also have their own ground strap. 99% of the time and electrical problem with an auto is ground related
Originally Posted by cam
You cant have too many grounds. The more the merrier. If you only have one spot that isn't so good but if you can only easily mount to one location with the existing wire length that isnt bad but you need to add more around the chassis and engine. Run a jumper ground from the single location to the battery ground strap on the block. You want to be sure the entire perimeter of the engine and all gasketed parts that have a sensor also have their own ground strap. 99% of the time and electrical problem with an auto is ground related
Many times they rely on grounding through bolts at the factory, but take cylinder head bolts for example, grease them up for proper torqueing and they don't conduct as well. Multiply that all over the vehicle. I would jumper one cylinder head to the other to make sure they're atvsame potential.
Yeah I learned the ground gremlin game the hard way a looong time ago. In LS engines it can be bad because all the fasteners are coated as well. I have two good sized braided straps going from each side of the block one to the k member and one to the body. On the top side I have head to firewall, head to body, head to block where bat ground is. From my fuse box I have bat, block, and chassis all connected plus a bunch more anywhere I can fit one thats connecting a component and out of site theres grounds. At least three for my fuel pump too. All flux core soldered connectors and eyes and splices with dual wall heat shrink. It takes time to do this but my swaps run for years and years without hassle. Its worth it imo to get the wiring tight and right.
