Tapping after engine build!! PLZ HELP!
Which pushrod tool are you using? I seem to remember different brands have different values per turn of the tool.
You checked length with the lifters on the cam base circle, right?
You checked length with the lifters on the cam base circle, right?
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On The Tree
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so tell me what I need? They are saying my 3/4 of a turn is good. I've heard others say 1.5 is where you need to be? What do I need to do??
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On The Tree
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and yes base circle.
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http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/1801-the-wrong-length-pushrod-can-cost-your-engine-power-and-performance/
this website also agrees with TSP. Between 1/2 and 1 full turn after zero lash is on the money? Can someone explain this?
this website also agrees with TSP. Between 1/2 and 1 full turn after zero lash is on the money? Can someone explain this?
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Verdad Gallardo Follow the professionalls advice. You need to find 0 lash first. Then screw the checker out til you get 3/4 of a turn til rocker is bottomed. Thats it. Never add preload on paper, always measure.
I think this might be your issue. On LS engines you adjust the lifter preload by the length of the pushrod. It sounds like the method you used was for an adjustable rocker valave train (like the older SBC). Turning the rocker mounting bolt x amount of turns past the torque valve won’t help with lifter preload.
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I think this might be your issue. On LS engines you adjust the lifter preload by the length of the pushrod. It sounds like the method you used was for an adjustable rocker valave train (like the older SBC). Turning the rocker mounting bolt x amount of turns past the torque valve won’t help with lifter preload.
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Either I’m not understanding how you measured zero lash or you’re doing it way different than I do on these engines. .Either way 030-.040” sounds a bit short on preload. An easy way to check would be to pull a rocker cover and check all 8 rockers for play. At any given time you’ll have lifters on the base circle and will find loose rockers if your pushrods aren’t long enough. No need to do this check on the other side as results should be the same.
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Either I’m not understanding how you measured zero lash or you’re doing it way different than I do on these engines. .Either way 030-.040” sounds a bit short on preload. An easy way to check would be to pull a rocker cover and check all 8 rockers for play. At any given time you’ll have lifters on the base circle and will find loose rockers if your pushrods aren’t long enough. No need to do this check on the other side as results should be the same.
Of you are trying to find 0 lash then adding the preload on paper do not do that. like you see 7.230 as 0 lash and add .050 for "preload" on paper.
Dont do that. always measure. so find 0 lash then from there 3/4 turn til you bottom out the rocker in the pedestal. if youre over 3/4 you are too long. under too short. adjust accordingly.
Dont do that. always measure. so find 0 lash then from there 3/4 turn til you bottom out the rocker in the pedestal. if youre over 3/4 you are too long. under too short. adjust accordingly.
If you’ve actually pulled your valve covers and checked all the rockers for play, and there was NO lash, then I would guess the tapping noise you’re hearing has nothing to do with pushrod length being too short. Regardless of what method you used to measure and weather or not they’re the right length (possibly too long..?) would be irrelevant to the noise you’re hearing. I’m still not sure if you actually measured using a checker tool but it doesn’t matter.
So.... it may be time to start looking at other possible causes...? You SURE it’s not an exhaust leak?
So.... it may be time to start looking at other possible causes...? You SURE it’s not an exhaust leak?
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Since you are hearing multiple taps then I'd suspect the following:
1. O-ring not sealing at the oil pump. Did you replace the pump and the o-ring at the pickup tube/pump interface? How is your oil pressure?
2. Air pockets in oiling system. Did you prime the oiling system? Did you soak the lifters? Without any idea on how long the new build has been run, have you let the engine warm up to operating temp?
3. Loose rockers or failed trunion bearings.
4. Pushrod length. Did you measure? This is a need to know.
5. Oversized pushrod diameter. I have heard (not experienced) that 11/32" dia & 3/8" diameter pushrods can make contact with the head casting if not clearanced.
Just a few ideas for you to look into. Good luck.
-R
1. O-ring not sealing at the oil pump. Did you replace the pump and the o-ring at the pickup tube/pump interface? How is your oil pressure?
2. Air pockets in oiling system. Did you prime the oiling system? Did you soak the lifters? Without any idea on how long the new build has been run, have you let the engine warm up to operating temp?
3. Loose rockers or failed trunion bearings.
4. Pushrod length. Did you measure? This is a need to know.
5. Oversized pushrod diameter. I have heard (not experienced) that 11/32" dia & 3/8" diameter pushrods can make contact with the head casting if not clearanced.
Just a few ideas for you to look into. Good luck.
-R
Not sure about the cam retainer plate. Others will have to chime in. O-rings go bad on their own from time to time. Mine did. Whenever I hear complaints about top end tapping in more than one spot, I tend to lean towards aerated oil via oil pump o-ring.
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I'm sure they go bad on there own for sure. But mine was fine. Before I did the heads and cam swap so I don't think it'll go bad while it sit there? I took the valve covers off and ran it. I took slow motion video and I got a tap on every valve as it fully opened?
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can I replace the o ring without removing oil pan?