Ground strap In the wrong spot??
Ground strap In the wrong spot?? I am chasing a misfire / stumble and I came across a ground that I believe to be in the wrong spot. There is a braided ground strap that goes from the passenger front coil mounting bracket bolt to the body. Every other LS1 I've looked at has no ground strap there. It goes from the coil bracket bolt by the alternator then goes to the body of the car. I believe this strap is supposed to go from the block to the body on the passenger side. I chased this strap and noticed it was torn and hanging by a thread in a spot. Is this strap in the wrong spot? Would the fact that its hanging by a thread and in the wrong spot cause me serious issues?
There is a ground that goes from the side of the block to the battery on the passenger side on the f body but its not a braided strap. Its about a 2 gauge wire. There is a braided wire on the driver side that runs from engine to frame rail I believe. Then there are a few ground on the back of the cylinder head.
There is a ground that goes from the side of the block to the battery on the passenger side on the f body but its not a braided strap. Its about a 2 gauge wire. There is a braided wire on the driver side that runs from engine to frame rail I believe. Then there are a few ground on the back of the cylinder head.
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Just ran in to a issue with a friends older big SS this week, we fixed it with a ground wire from one of the "Opti" bolts to the block.
When we put an ohm meter on the part of the housing that merges if thats the right word to the engine, it didn't have a good ground..
He had a random high speed miss on the highway and it went away with the new wire..
Totally voodoo ,, we thought about hanging garlic on the opti to keep the evil spirits away.. LOL
When we put an ohm meter on the part of the housing that merges if thats the right word to the engine, it didn't have a good ground..
He had a random high speed miss on the highway and it went away with the new wire..
Totally voodoo ,, we thought about hanging garlic on the opti to keep the evil spirits away.. LOL
Grounds are weird. Your opti fix makes sense. Sometimes the factory relies on bolts conducting current. Then oxidation sets in and it stops conduction.
Body mounts are that way. Rust on the bolt and they don't conduct, then anything grounded to body but not to frame acts funny.
Your garlic fix makes sense too. I do not suggest holy water, as the opti does not like getting wet
Body mounts are that way. Rust on the bolt and they don't conduct, then anything grounded to body but not to frame acts funny.
Your garlic fix makes sense too. I do not suggest holy water, as the opti does not like getting wet
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Ground wires are important. I had a Caddy DeVille years ago that had all sorts of electrical gremlins. Sometimes it had to be jump started. Sometimes it would miss fire and run rough at higher speeds. Sometimes you would roll the power windows down and the motor would die. All the ground connections were cleaned and good.
Finally on a hunch, I got an exacto knife and cut open the battery ground strap wire. It was green almost all the all the way to the block. Changed the ground strap and fixed the car.
Here, you found a severely frayed ground strap. Change it.
Finally on a hunch, I got an exacto knife and cut open the battery ground strap wire. It was green almost all the all the way to the block. Changed the ground strap and fixed the car.
Here, you found a severely frayed ground strap. Change it.
Learn how to properly do a voltage drop test to check your grounds and voltage.
Actually, IMO a voltage drop test is one of the best and most under utilized electrical tests there is. Ohm test is pretty much worthless unless you are testing to see if a circuit it is open.
Actually, IMO a voltage drop test is one of the best and most under utilized electrical tests there is. Ohm test is pretty much worthless unless you are testing to see if a circuit it is open.
Learn how to properly do a voltage drop test to check your grounds and voltage.
Actually, IMO a voltage drop test is one of the best and most under utilized electrical tests there is. Ohm test is pretty much worthless unless you are testing to see if a circuit it is open.
Actually, IMO a voltage drop test is one of the best and most under utilized electrical tests there is. Ohm test is pretty much worthless unless you are testing to see if a circuit it is open.
For example, if you have a wire with 100 strands in it and 80 of those wires are broken, using a Ohms test, it's going to "test" good because there very very little current flow through it that the meter is providing and the few wires that are left have no problem moving that low of current.
Now lets say you throw a fuel pump on that circuit that's pulling 20+ amps, those few wires can not flow that much current and you will see a lower voltage(if you are doing a voltage drop test correctly). That's why a circuit has to be loaded when doing a voltage drop test. All a DVOM measures is the difference of potential voltage. That's why if you hook the meter up to the battery it shows 14 volts. Because there is 14 volts at the positive terminal and 0 volts at the negative terminal.
For example if you want to voltage drop your fuel pump, you would go from the positive battery terminal to the power feed to the pump. In a perfect situation your DVOM will show under .2 volts. Why? Because it's reading the difference in voltage between to two leads, the battery and the power to the fuel pump.
You do the same thing with the ground side. Battery ground to the fuel pump ground.
You can have all the voltage in the world, but if it can't get back to the battery via the ground...it's pointless. It's the same as not having enough power. A circuit is a circuit.
Agreed, but lets sat a new ground strap had say 300 Ohms resistance. I do not know what it is, but for instance. If the strap was intact and not frayed away and it indicated much higher Ohms, that would suggest the strap was corroded and should be replaced. If it was missing strands but otherwise OK, an Ohms test would be useless since it would not show anymore resistance.
I was also not beginning a discussion on circuitry. The OP mentioned he had a frayed strap which should be replaced before it breaks on the road. The diagnosis was a 17 lb fuel pressure problem, not attributable to the ground strap. Otherwise the points you made were good and not lost on me.
I was also not beginning a discussion on circuitry. The OP mentioned he had a frayed strap which should be replaced before it breaks on the road. The diagnosis was a 17 lb fuel pressure problem, not attributable to the ground strap. Otherwise the points you made were good and not lost on me.
Agreed, but lets sat a new ground strap had say 300 Ohms resistance. I do not know what it is, but for instance. If the strap was intact and not frayed away and it indicated much higher Ohms, that would suggest the strap was corroded and should be replaced. If it was missing strands but otherwise OK, an Ohms test would be useless since it would not show anymore resistance.
I was also not beginning a discussion on circuitry. The OP mentioned he had a frayed strap which should be replaced before it breaks on the road. The diagnosis was a 17 lb fuel pressure problem, not attributable to the ground strap. Otherwise the points you made were good and not lost on me.
I was also not beginning a discussion on circuitry. The OP mentioned he had a frayed strap which should be replaced before it breaks on the road. The diagnosis was a 17 lb fuel pressure problem, not attributable to the ground strap. Otherwise the points you made were good and not lost on me.
Also it was me that went off topic from the OP.
