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Race ready ls1

Old Oct 7, 2018 | 02:44 AM
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Default Race ready ls1

I'm switching from road racing motorcycles to cars. Class I'm running allows camaro 4th gen which ls1 right? Where is this motor weak or any common problems? Hp will not exceed 400.
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Old Oct 7, 2018 | 09:50 AM
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4th gen is LT1 and LS1. 400 hp is a walk in the park for the LS1
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Old Oct 7, 2018 | 09:54 AM
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Pistons are the weak spot on the LS1. As said above, 400 is a walk in the park.
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Old Oct 8, 2018 | 07:41 PM
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Definitely address oiling. I would addadd accusump system, and if the engine is coming out of the car, a crank scraper would be a good idea too.
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Old Oct 9, 2018 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob570
Definitely address oiling. I would addadd accusump system, and if the engine is coming out of the car, a crank scraper would be a good idea too.
I second this. I have heard that the LS1/6 has a weak oiling system. Not sure if that's really true, but some people say that. In either case, for any engine on the road course, you have to pay special attention to the oiling system if you want it to survive.

A good pan baffle and crank scraper helps keep the oil around the pick up. I installed a high capacity pan with gates and baffles. Not cheap, but good insurance.

Some big pans do not have provisions for the oil filter like the stock pan. That's OK. Installing a remote oil filter is not difficult. BUT be sure and spend the money on billit components. The cheaper cast parts will crack and leak. They just can't stand up to the rigors of track use.

Install a 2-3 qt reservoir like a Canton Accusump. There are a couple on the market. Before every race week end, make sure there is air pressure in it, as it will slowly leak out. Don't install any kind of electric valve. They have a high failure rate on the track.

Use a quality oil pump, like melling. Since you'll have a big pan and external components, use a high volume pump. But there's no need for high pressure.

Oil is heated by extended high rpm's. You need a cooler. Use a plate style cooler. They're sturdier and more efficient. If this is also a street car, install a thermostat. Otherwise the oil will never get up to temp, and that's not good. Minimum operating temp is about 180* or so.

Connect it all with quality AN lines and fittings. No rubber hose and clamps. For oiling systems, use -10 or -12. Lots of people use -8, and that's just too small for that kind of volume. Don't use braided steel, it's too heavy. I like the socketless hose. It's light weight, easy to work with, and less expensive. Pay attention to rub points.

This is what I did for my car. My engine rarely sees <50psi on the track, and never <45psi. http://www.racingtheexocet.com/?page_id=265
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Old Oct 9, 2018 | 11:22 AM
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Inside the block, all LS oiling systems are the same. I think it comes down to the pump and oil pan. A Melling high-pressure pump and a deep enough pan should put you in business beside what is mentioned above
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Old Oct 9, 2018 | 11:33 AM
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I've read, but do not have experience, that sheet metal pans like Cantons won't take the stress of bolting up to the bellhousing, or they start to warp. ?? Read that on other threads.

But I agree with boB on all points. I have an Accusump on my street/autocross car and I would *never* use an electric valve on it for road racing, manual valve only. The Accusump does require some regular upkeep and pressure checking.
Another issue some ppl have is with PCV, catch cans, and oil in the intake. Loads of threads on that, but if you are road racing and take that off, no probs.
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