0171, 0131 Code
I know, check the wires and if OK change the O2. But, this is the third left bank 02 problem I've had in the last 5 years. It seems every other year I have to change the left O2. One time it was the wire, and twice it was the O2. Any suggestions are appreciated.
I went to work today and started the car when I got home. I cleared out the codes and then did a rescan. The rescan showed no codes, so I started the motor. It ran well for about 10 minutes until it warmed up. Then it started to miss so I shut it off. Did a rescan again and had no codes. Restarted it a third time after a few minutes and it ran clean and did not break up. Certainly sounds like a wire or something wrong with the 02 after it warms up.
The GTO has two 02 pigtails. One going from the harness to where it attaches to the side of the transmission, and the other is the pigtail lead from the 02 which attaches to it. Both pigtails use standard 02 type plug ins. The 02 pigtail lead has been changed twice in 5 years, each time the 02 was changed. I have some time tomorrow, so I will check the grounds and the connection at the harness. Who knows without going under the car mavbe a wire is burned or frayed or corroded.
Does anyone know offhand, what the 02 voltage is from the signal wire when cold and also hot? Also, what should the voltage be to the heater circuit?
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After that, I remembered I had a Maf problem with the car a few years ago. That turned out to be the Maf plug in. So, I jiggled the left bank coil pack connector and voila the motor ran clean. So, I disconnected the plug in and cleaned the connection with brake cleaner and applied dielectric grease to the prongs and gasket. The connector snapped backed together and felt good. I took the car for a 20 minute drive and there was no missing and no codes.
When I returned, I did the right back too. When I restarted the motor, I heard the satisfying whistling sound of a smooth motor. The cleaning helped I'm sure, but the grease prevents any arcing or cross firing in the connection. Before I started, I remembered when cars used to have distributor caps. Crazy misfires would occur and examining the cap would show arcing between terminals. Sometimes the arc lines were easy to track, looking like little ant trails going from one terminal to the next. Sometimes arcing would occur but you could not see the trails with the eye.
The solution would be to replace the cap of course, but if the trails were not visible I would but a thin film of grease on the inside of the cap to see if it would help. Now as then, the grease is probably stopping connector arcing. I always used grease on the plugs and wires when I changed the plugs. In the future, I will also grease the coil connectors whenever I change the plugs. Tomorrow the car gets the acid test. I will take out for 30 miles or so and post the results.
Last edited by rednari2; Oct 18, 2018 at 04:39 PM.
FWIW, dielectric grease also supposedly helps combat fretting to some degree, although in my experience just replacing the connector is the best solution.
I do not know if the plug for the coil pack harness is bad or if it is the body loom plug in. I changed the right bank harness a few years ago after a similar problem. All the wires look OK with no fraying. The pins are probably corroded or there was arcing or a slight crack not visible to the eye in the plastic of the connector. Does anyone know where I can get a new connector?? I know I can go to the junkyard and clip one out, but I would like to find a new one.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...423044&jsn=426
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...423044&jsn=422
Let this stand as a lesson to all before you start throwing parts onto the car. False 02 readings are caused by many different things. I follow the old adages: (1) if its not broken, do not fix it; and (2) do not throw parts at the car, because you still have to find the real problem anyway.
BTW, the car ran good today. The weather is getting colder and with that and a good coil pack connection she ran strong.






