Quick assist please....
11-14-2018, 12:44 PM
#1
Quick assist please.... Fellas is know there used to be a tab with a breakdown of ls1 diffrences by the years. I searched but cant find it. I'm looking for info on the 98 model f-body. I recall a difference in the heads, I belive they were center bolt vs perimeter. Any setbacks to this set up? Any other negative aspects, please let me know. Set to meet a guy in a few hours with a decent mile, clean title 1998 Z28, A4.
11-14-2018, 01:36 PM
#2
Teching In
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I recently bought a stock 98 TA and looked into this a bit.. I'm sure there's some more differences but these were what mattered to me before my purchase:
98's have different valve covers / heads with each ignition coil mounted individually instead of on a bracket. 98's come stock with EGR and AIR assemblies, as well as LS1 intakes instead of the LS6 intakes found on 01-02's. 98's also have steel gas tanks which are a bit smaller than the plastic tanks on 99+. 98's also have an older pcm which I heard is more difficult to tune in some ways. My tuner had no problems with mine. They say the heads on the 98 don't flow as well and the rod bolts can't handle higher revs as well as the 99+ cars.
However 98's have upsides too. The sail panels on most 98 cars do not suffer from the bubbling problem the 99+ cars exhibit, also its anecdotal but the 98 ta door panels seem to be less prone to developing cracks. The 98 cam is also a bit more aggressive.
If you plan to do bolt ons or upgrade heads and cam I see no reason to shy away from a 98. All of the areas the 98's lack can be fixed pretty easily in my opinion.
98's have different valve covers / heads with each ignition coil mounted individually instead of on a bracket. 98's come stock with EGR and AIR assemblies, as well as LS1 intakes instead of the LS6 intakes found on 01-02's. 98's also have steel gas tanks which are a bit smaller than the plastic tanks on 99+. 98's also have an older pcm which I heard is more difficult to tune in some ways. My tuner had no problems with mine. They say the heads on the 98 don't flow as well and the rod bolts can't handle higher revs as well as the 99+ cars.
However 98's have upsides too. The sail panels on most 98 cars do not suffer from the bubbling problem the 99+ cars exhibit, also its anecdotal but the 98 ta door panels seem to be less prone to developing cracks. The 98 cam is also a bit more aggressive.
If you plan to do bolt ons or upgrade heads and cam I see no reason to shy away from a 98. All of the areas the 98's lack can be fixed pretty easily in my opinion.
Last edited by jshow816; 11-14-2018 at 01:43 PM.
11-14-2018, 01:36 PM
#3
TECH Senior Member
No drawbacks to the perimeter setup itself. No cool aftermarket valve covers though. Later on when you get some good 243 heads that issue will negate itself
11-14-2018, 01:40 PM
#4
Thanks Much appreciated fellas! Just returning from overseas duty. A little rusty, been stuck in asia since 2012. I have a set of 243s sitting on the shelf at my buddy's place. With 81K miles, clean Carfax and looks to be in great condition, I may be about to get steal!
11-14-2018, 01:42 PM
#5
TECH Senior Member
Welcome back, and thank you for serving our country! Go for the deal!
11-14-2018, 02:12 PM
#6
TECH Resident
Good luck on the deal. I hope it's what you're looking for. The difference between a 98 and a 99 is so small that it shouldn't scare you off at all. If I bought a 98 my roof and hatch wouldn't have bubbles lol.
Trending Topics
11-15-2018, 06:44 PM
#9
First of all thank you for your service!
As for the car, just be aware that depending on how the compressor failed, it may also need a new condenser and drier too. Not to mention the possible evac and certain refill of refrigerant. AC work is pretty simple with s few special tools and you can find replacement parts online at decent prices so don’t let that scare you away. In fact, this would be a good negotiation point. Good luck!
As for the car, just be aware that depending on how the compressor failed, it may also need a new condenser and drier too. Not to mention the possible evac and certain refill of refrigerant. AC work is pretty simple with s few special tools and you can find replacement parts online at decent prices so don’t let that scare you away. In fact, this would be a good negotiation point. Good luck!
11-17-2018, 01:37 PM
#13
TECH Junkie
Hope that made sense, couple drinks in......
