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Longtubes+duals on 4th gen

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Old 12-04-2018, 10:27 AM
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Default Longtubes+duals on 4th gen

Installing a set of no name stainless longtubes and speed engineerings duals dumped over the axle set up within the next few days. I’ve done a few header installs more recently my C6 Z’s. All of which were done in my garage on jackstands.
Is there anything special for a 4th gen LS1?
Already have o2 harness extensions and new header gaskets as well as hp tuners to turn the rear o2s off. Hoping to have it done this weekend since this is my daily.
Old 12-04-2018, 03:56 PM
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Nothing too special about it, front end needs to be really high off the ground to get the header nearly straight up and down to work it up and in. Your biggest challenge will likely be fitment issues due to cheap parts.​​​​​
Old 12-04-2018, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Nothing too special about it, front end needs to be really high off the ground to get the header nearly straight up and down to work it up and in. Your biggest challenge will likely be fitment issues due to cheap parts.​​​​​

how is common is it for the engine to need to be lifted?
Old 12-04-2018, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by sean byrd



how is common is it for the engine to need to be lifted?

Not common that I'm aware of. Maybe needed for a poor design not sure. I try to get known good headers that don't have fitment issues to avoid that.
Old 12-05-2018, 12:59 PM
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Take old ones off. Put new ones on.
Old 12-05-2018, 11:23 PM
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Your stock manifolds should come out easy, but the no name headers will be a pia to put them in get the speed engineer headers they are bigger but have way way more clearance between body and headers
Old 12-08-2018, 04:59 PM
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Pacesetters & TSPs also have great clearance and Zero fitment issues. Some have gone the same route ur going and have had to remove motor mounts, steering linkage or K-members to install. But GL!
Old 12-08-2018, 07:36 PM
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Pacesetters went right in. Driver side floor board was a little close but I didn't have to remove anything major that I remember. Relatively easy install

Oh and same with my dads ebay stainless steel headers and y pipe. He had the driver side done by the time I drove to his house and he was like 55 at the time. That was 5 years ago. He still has no leaks and they actually look really cool as they've turned kinda metallic/mirror blue/gold over the years
Old 12-11-2018, 03:52 PM
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Its good time to consider replacing the old motor mounts and go with poly mounts . It will give you little more clearance. Could make the install go easier too.
Old 12-11-2018, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by omc8
Its good time to consider replacing the old motor mounts and go with poly mounts . It will give you little more clearance. Could make the install go easier too.
I would take this word "easier" with a grain of salt. It makes getting the headers in easier for sure. But replacing my motor mounts was by far my least favorite job on the car. I am very happy I did it because it needed it, but i've probably said more curse words over that day and a half it took to do both jobs than I ever have in a weeks time.
Old 12-16-2018, 03:31 PM
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Ended up replacing the no names with some SE 1 7/8 longtubes. Headers are on but now I’m trying to get the rest on. From reading all the threads I knew the hardware was junk. Gave it a whirl anyways. Clamps won’t tighten enough to hold anything and I broke a bolt. I bought grade 8 bolts but didn’t even notice that they are only partial thread and not enough to tighten the clamps on. I’ve gone to Lowe’s and Home Depot and neither sell grade 8s in full thread bolts. What am I missing here? Are grade 8 full threads not a thing or?
Also my kit only came with 6 clamps and I need one more-hopefully speed engineering will send me another.
Old 12-16-2018, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by sean byrd
Ended up replacing the no names with some SE 1 7/8 longtubes. Headers are on but now I’m trying to get the rest on. From reading all the threads I knew the hardware was junk. Gave it a whirl anyways. Clamps won’t tighten enough to hold anything and I broke a bolt. I bought grade 8 bolts but didn’t even notice that they are only partial thread and not enough to tighten the clamps on. I’ve gone to Lowe’s and Home Depot and neither sell grade 8s in full thread bolts. What am I missing here? Are grade 8 full threads not a thing or?
Also my kit only came with 6 clamps and I need one more-hopefully speed engineering will send me another.

update: Found some online for just under $10 but it’ll take a few days for them to arrive so I’m hoping to find a place in town tomorrow that has them in stock. Need the car up ASAP since it’s my daily and my trucks killing me on fuel.
Old 12-17-2018, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by sean byrd
update: Found some online for just under $10 but it’ll take a few days for them to arrive so I’m hoping to find a place in town tomorrow that has them in stock. Need the car up ASAP since it’s my daily and my trucks killing me on fuel.
With my SE true duals, I used Walker Mega-Clamp band clamps where I could but other areas I used the SE clamps and bolts and tightened them down with long extensions, swivel sockets and my breaker bar. It takes a ton of force to close up those pipes and I didn't break any of the bolts.
Old 12-17-2018, 06:51 PM
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Replacement bolts worked and it sounds noticeably deeper than the loudmouth I previously had. Sounds 👍
Old 12-20-2018, 12:00 AM
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I haven’t had a chance to tuck the exhaust in higher but tonight going into a gas station I misjudged those ports in the ground and my exhaust came off. Definitely getting this welded as soon as I can. 55 miles from home and trying to get it back on the car without a jack or tools isn’t fun.




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