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Old Jan 29, 2019 | 07:33 AM
  #21  
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The more you modify your car, the more you will need a better flowing exhaust. The stock exhaust will really start to choke your motor with just simple bolt ons. This is just a hunch but are you an engineering student? I am, and this is what I have to deal with classmates when I talk cars with them. You can theorize all you want but real world results are real world results. Don't overthink simple solutions.
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Old Jan 29, 2019 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by msystic27
i read on forums about the benefits of after market exhaust, if u had the 345 hp slp kit on your 2002 SS. there does seem to be of any advantage, doing exhaust work. doing the math a 3 inch intermedia pipe will support 2 x 2 inch muffer and tail pipe, the factory 3,1/2 by 1.5 y pipe has the same area as a 2.5 inch pipe, yes fluid dynamics would say there is more drag in the factory y pipe and thus reduce flow, the math to use is this diameter divided by two then square the answer and then times pie 3.14. this does not even talk about exhaust velocity cause by heat and effect on that. to me spending over a thousand for 10 hp is not worth it. the manifolds are so good on LS motors it does not seem to make sense to spend a large chunk of money on headers, i believe tune the engine for headers will return additional 5% horse power increase
Back in 1999-2004 there was a local dyno-jet that had a friendly owner. Spent a lot of time over there seeing cars dyno'd back in the day with several local car clubs.

From what I recall, the typical six speed fbody with lid SLP MAF, catback, free mod's typically made 315 to 330 whp with stock manifolds and intake. The 98-00 cars 315-325 whp and the 01 - 02's 325-330 whp. The better cast iron manifolds and LS6 intake helped.

Same mod's on essentially identical cars with headers and tune would dyno 340 who to 350 whp. This way in the old LS1 Edit era before HP Tuners - so feel free to add 5 whp for HP Tuners

The cars with headers could spank the ones without headers most of the time all else equal. So the headers were definitely worth the cost if you like to WIN
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Old Jan 30, 2019 | 12:46 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by stockA4
2002 Z28, full weight, 245/50/16 nittos. Runs 11.80's @ 115mph with 1.6x 60ft times.

Suspension is all stock accept for tubular lower control arms and panhard bar, both sway bars still in place.

I upgraded my exhaust!!! pacesetter 1-3/4 longtubes with 3"y-pipe and a magnaflow welded in with the stock tailpipes.

Whisper lid and free ram air mod is all for induction. Nothing ported.

Btr stage III truck cam and blue LS6 springs.

Tci SSF 3500 10" converter pn# 242932

3.73:1 in the stock ten bolt, probably don't even need those but they help make the converter feel tighter.

That's it, that's all I've done.

It's been tuned with a good wideband of course, that is key. Good luck attacking the forums with your maths.

​​​​​​
I wish summit would let me "test" the new summit stage 4 truck cam this spring. I can just drop it in as I already have the springs on. I forget in my list of mods earlier that I'm already sporting the summit ten bolt rearend girdle. Do you guys Think it would be worth a few tenths on my setup to change cams? I could dyno before and after if needed if anyone cares what a "truck" (I read that as the most reliable) cam only completely original car will do at the strip.
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Old Jan 30, 2019 | 01:36 PM
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Headers wont give you enough back pressure and your car wont run right. wink wink.

You can get a true dual setup, headers and all, for $700 shipped from speed engineering. If you wanna stick with a single exhaust you can get their headers and y-pipe for $350 plus shipping. This aint rocket science homeskillet. Stop with all of your equations. Headers and exhaust are probably the best bang for the buck you can get for these cars.
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Old Jan 30, 2019 | 01:49 PM
  #25  
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I gained 6 mph going from bone stock to Lt's, ory, electric cutout, tune

That's simple math to me.
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Old Jan 30, 2019 | 02:06 PM
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I'm stock ride height and I still have to be careful. I wonder how well dual cutouts added to my current 3" y-pipe would work with the rest of my setup. I imagine a large volume of the exhaust gas would continue to flow into the merge but would it be as good as an x-pipe?
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Old Feb 3, 2019 | 07:42 PM
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4th gen Fbodies been around 26 years, now we want to turn stock exhaust into a science project and have a “what if conversation”?

Sorry but put the smoking vessel down. 😂
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Old Feb 8, 2019 | 12:19 PM
  #28  
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I've been here since 2001, but still found it interesting enough to click within to see the discussion on the y-pipe. Never know what you might read/learn.
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Old Feb 8, 2019 | 12:37 PM
  #29  
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That was the reason for the post to make people think
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Old Feb 10, 2019 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by stockA4
Get a cutout for $30 bucks and put it on the intermediate pipe right before the rear axle. Keep your stock muffler. It's worth a few tenths at the dragstrip. We all appreciate the math, believe me but we do our testing at the track.
If you do that where are you going to put your high flow cat/s? Again, the point is to remove the fuel smell WHILE having the best possible ground clearance WHILE being able to have the versatility of freeing up power. When I see these catted Y pipes I'm at a loss. The cats are the first thing after the headers. Putting cutouts after the cats defeats the purpose of having cutouts. On top of that, you can expect 2 inches or less ground clearance under those cats if lowered 1.5". This rules out catted Y pipes with a single cutout being in the intermediate pipe. Plus with a single cutout in the intermediate pipe, you need to make a 4" merge. Good luck getting that to clear short tunnel mount X members that actually have good ground clearance. The 3" pipe is a tight fit as is.

This is the end all be all for street cars that use shorty torque arms that want to run Y pipes and have the flexiblity. Now if it was an all out race car, I wouldn't spend the time and money on this system but I wanted it to be quiet, not smell, have good ground clearance, and be able to free up power as needed.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-cutouts.html
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Old Feb 10, 2019 | 11:35 AM
  #31  
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If your car was tuned right the exhaust would not have a strong smell to it. Your AFR is likely off. The reason for cats is emissions, not to eliminate smell
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Old Feb 10, 2019 | 12:18 PM
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It's a SD tune and is optimized for what it is. Car was tuned to be correct AFR at ambient temp and humidity. The cat is designed to clean up the last little bit of unburned hydrocarbons.
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