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I've got a 5.3 engine out of a 99 Silverado with a 4L60E trans in my Jeep. I originally had the ECU programmed for 4.88 gears and 35" tires. I then installed a Jegs electric speedo and calibrated it. All was fine at this point.
I've since installed 38" tires and am struggling to calibrate the Jegs speedo. The problem I have is that Jegs gauge needs at least 4000 pulses per mile to register and accept the calibration and I need somewhere around 3500 pulses per mile.
Do you all know of a way to fix this?
My understanding is that pins 20 and 21 are sine waves from the VSS and pin 50 from the ECU is a square wave for the speedo so I don't think I can just pull directly off the VSS wires.
I feel like the best solution would be to correct the programming in the ECU but I get lost really fast when I start reading into that and I don't own the tools to do it either.
For a PCM that old, you don't need an expensive system to reprogram it. With a little coaching and a junk yard parts PCM bench harness, you could be doing it yourself with Tuner Pro RT, LS Droid or PCM Hammer. Unlike HP Tuners, there is no Tuner Pro RT wizard calculator for tire diameter changes, etc but the math is easy. A caveman could do it - see attached Tuner Pro picture here.
For a PCM that old, you don't need an expensive system to reprogram it. With a little coaching and a junk yard parts PCM bench harness, you could be doing it yourself with Tuner Pro RT, LS Droid or PCM Hammer. Unlike HP Tuners, there is no Tuner Pro RT wizard calculator for tire diameter changes, etc but the math is easy. A caveman could do it - see attached Tuner Pro picture here.
Rick
Thanks for the info. I've been trying for some time to get access to the files needed to use Tuner Pro without much luck. The admins at gearhead-efi won't activate either account that I've tried signing up for and everywhere I've searched just links this thread which has all the files....that I can't download. http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...ed-is-TunerPro
I can't help you with admin issues at Gearhead-EFI but I do have all of the files you need for a 5.3L engine and a 4L60E here - same setup I have on my El Camino. You would need to build a junk yard OBD2 wiring harness with a small 12 volt power supply.
Ok I'm resurrecting this thread because apparently I'm an idiot. I have a 99 ECU and 5.3L engine. Seems like everyone says to use the 2002 xdf file for 512kb files. I can edit the bin file that's on my ECU in Tuner Pro with that xdf but the majority of the parameters are blank or don't fall in line with anything that makes sense. I tried just adjusting what I needed and LS droid doesn't recognize that it's a real bin file.
I can edit the generic 2002 bin file and LS droid won't load it onto my ECU because it says it's incompatible with my ECU.
My current ECU works fine but the speedo is way off and I'm trying to fix it. I'm only changing VATS and the H0101 and H0103 for the speedo. I'm not totally sure what I could possibly be doing wrong but clearly I'm not doing something right. I've even tried the 2001 xdf and generic bin with no luck.
What is the BIN number you are trying to write into your PCM? Does it have a matching XDF? Mind you, neither of these will match the BIN that is inside your PCM now. You will be overwriting and abandoning whatever is inside your PCM now.
What is the BIN number you are trying to write into your PCM? Does it have a matching XDF? Mind you, neither of these will match the BIN that is inside your PCM now. You will be overwriting and abandoning whatever is inside your PCM now.
Rick
I've tried 12202088 and 12212156. I don't remember which 2001 version I used. I'll try to delete all the files except my backup and start over ensuring the right xdf and bin combination and make sure that isn't the problem.
Ok I started fresh this morning. Put the .dll checksum file in the folder, used a freshly downloaded 12212156 xdf and bin file.
This is what I get when I try to write to the PCM. I'm beginning to think the only way to fix this is either buy the HP Tuner or buy another ECU and try that. Either way, this endeavor is starting to get pretty ridiculous and time consuming just to fix the speedometer output.
Is it possible that your target PCM already has a Custom Operating System from EFI Live or HP Tuners? I'm no expert here but that might explain why LS Droid is struggling with a possible calibration mismatch. From your first post above, I see that as a possibility though you don't mention what tool was used to flash your PCM. I wish Pete would see this post and chime in to assist.
Given how inexpensive junk yard PCM devices are, I'd get a different PCM and give that a try. Everybody needs lab rat PCM's and I have five here in various conditions of tune. I understand your frustration and as some famous dead guy once said, "If we are not failing at something, we are not trying hard enough."
Is it possible that your target PCM already has a Custom Operating System from EFI Live or HP Tuners? I'm no expert here but that might explain why LS Droid is struggling with a possible calibration mismatch. From your first post above, I see that as a possibility though you don't mention what tool was used to flash your PCM. I wish Pete would see this post and chime in to assist.
Given how inexpensive junk yard PCM devices are, I'd get a different PCM and give that a try. Everybody needs lab rat PCM's and I have five here in various conditions of tune. I understand your frustration and as some famous dead guy once said, "If we are not failing at something, we are not trying hard enough."
Rick
It definitely has something because I sent it off to have the VATS removed and tire size/gear ratio updated back when I initially put the LS in my Jeep. Maybe that's the big problem. Although this seems obvious now, maybe I should stop trying to update the calibration and write everything including the OS and cal to the PCM.
Yes, please. Overwrite the whole entire OS and calibration shebang. This is what I do with my collection of Tuner Pro edited OS file sets and I'm only just recently getting the courage to try segment swaps with LS Droid 2.2 Beta. I have never bricked a PCM and there is a recovery path that someday I'm going to need - I have those instructions when that day arrives. Maybe soon but LS Droid has some good error checking that would likely prevent making a wheel chock out of a PCM.
One HUGE caveat here. Only overwrite your entire OS and cal if you have a backup copy of what works to start and drive your Jeep today. Or do this to a spare PCM. We gotta' be methodical and deliberate here and always keep a copy of our last known good tune.
See if you can read the full OS. Does it respond to a read request for DTC codes using other apps? I guess it is possible that you are already in some kind of a bricked condition here with that PCM.
Are you doing this with the PCM installed in your vehicle or are you using a bench harness? LS Droid has a rather strict 12.2 volts DC requirement for PCM power but this is for your benefit and protection against bricking the device. Exclusively, I only do PCM work on the kitchen table with a good 13.8 volt, three amp capable power supply and a homemade junk yard harness. Doing a read or write with the PCM installed in my El Camino has never been done here . . . too risky.
See if you can read the full OS. Does it respond to a read request for DTC codes using other apps? I guess it is possible that you are already in some kind of a bricked condition here with that PCM.
Are you doing this with the PCM installed in your vehicle or are you using a bench harness? LS Droid has a rather strict 12.2 volts DC requirement for PCM power but this is for your benefit and protection against bricking the device. Exclusively, I only do PCM work on the kitchen table with a good 13.8 volt, three amp capable power supply and a homemade junk yard harness. Doing a read or write with the PCM installed in my El Camino has never been done here . . . too risky.
Rick
You may be right on the current PCM being bricked or at least semi-bricked. It still seems to work fine in the Jeep but I can't even read it with LS droid anymore. It stalls out as well. The only thing I've successfully done with LS droid is read the first bin file. Everything else has stalled out or had a calibration mismatch. Never even made it to the pop up that shows write progress like I've seen on youtube.
I did not take your advice on the bench harness. My battery is strong and has maintained 13.2v after several hours of the ignition being on. Everything on this Jeep is fully custom so when I turn on the ignition, I'm only powering the PCM. I felt like I'd be more likely to buy a crappy bench harness or build one myself and have the wires get finicky.
I've got a 5.3 engine out of a 99 Silverado with a 4L60E trans in my Jeep. I originally had the ECU programmed for 4.88 gears and 35" tires. I then installed a Jegs electric speedo and calibrated it. All was fine at this point.
I've since installed 38" tires and am struggling to calibrate the Jegs speedo. The problem I have is that Jegs gauge needs at least 4000 pulses per mile to register and accept the calibration and I need somewhere around 3500 pulses per mile.
Do you all know of a way to fix this?
My understanding is that pins 20 and 21 are sine waves from the VSS and pin 50 from the ECU is a square wave for the speedo so I don't think I can just pull directly off the VSS wires.
I feel like the best solution would be to correct the programming in the ECU but I get lost really fast when I start reading into that and I don't own the tools to do it either.
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VSS output and speed calibration issues 
I understand your frustration and as some famous dead guy once said, "If we are not failing at something, we are not trying hard enough."
