Smaller water pump pulley? Does it exist?
nah I’m not doing that. It works fine as is and I’m not drilling into my oil pan. I’d rather spend money on a higher flow water pump or fab a smaller pulley because what I have now for a drain works and is easy to deal with if I need to service anything.
So last night I tried the idle at different higher rpms in neutral, ac on. It was 80f but humid. Low idle the temp would get to 200. Bring idle up some and it would drop 4 degrees. I should have done it in drive but didn’t think about it. I know 4 degrees ain’t **** but I repeated that a few times. That tells me the water pump isn’t moving enough water at idle. It’s amplified in hotter temps. I think a high flow pump is my next step. I’m still considering making a pulley tho.
93f and humid today. As long as I’m going down the road, ac on, it’ll be 186.7f which is about the temp of the thermostat opening. If stop, I can put it neutral and watch the temp rise. This is idling at 670rpm. It’ll climb a little past 200f (202ish). Then I can idle it at 1050rpm and the temp drops to 197f. So yea I’m pretty sure it’s partially a water flow and an air problem. Looks like I’m gonna upgrade the pump AND fans. Ugh.
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Joined: Oct 2016
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From: PDX-OR-USA
There are several variations of "glycol" products, Water Wetter/Blue Ice are variations of whats call a wetting agent in the building AC world.(Large building cooling and heating is done via glycol+ water mixes.) The products should work "ok" with most auto coolants,, don't expect to much if any change on the gauge, they don't work that way. Their primary purpose is to prevent bubbles from forming in the system, bubbles insulate and cause hot spots or in some cases cooling blockages in the system (If the inside of the radiator collects air bubbles the radiator doesn't work for instance.) The agents cause the surface tension of the liquid to drop so the bubbles can't stay coherent. I helps prevent issues from cavitation when you do spin the water pump at higher speeds... They also lubricate the system, and allow water to flow a percent or so easier through radiators/heat ex changers. One thing often missed, a fresh new radiator can contain a lot of contamination,, there are cleaners you can fill the radiator with to flush all the metal preservatives and fluxes etc out of it before install. If nothing else a healthy flush with clean HOT water does a lot to get rid of the manufacturing residue.
