Porting a FAST 102
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2018
Posts: 640
Likes: 297
From: Michigan
Porting a FAST 102 I'm thinking about porting my FAST 102, it just bothers me knowing how much the heads and intake are miss-matched. I'm not sure if I want to risk destroying a $900 intake though.
What are the best methods and how far down into the runner do I need to go? The plastic seems pretty thin in some spots.
What are the best methods and how far down into the runner do I need to go? The plastic seems pretty thin in some spots.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 809
Likes: 230
From: Nebraska, The Good Life
I ported my own 102 when it was brand new. I ported into the runners as far as my Dremmel would reach. I have the extension adapter on my Dremmel that places the tool on a long pencil handle and connects to the Dremmel motor via a large speedometer cable type contraption.
The one tip I will share to help get to the best port match: disassemble the intake and then place the base plate on the engine and using a curved or hook shaped scribe tool, scribe onto the fast runner openings following the edge of the runners in the heads. Then port it to match that scribe mark and blend that much new opening into the runner. It seemed to all work out for me pretty well. If you've never done it before, start slow and use less aggressive grinding media. Once you feel more comfortable you can go to a bit more aggressive media and then smooth things out more and clean things up with a much less aggressive media. Also, you are working on plastic so if you go too fast and hard you will melt it and gum up your grinding drum, if you go too slow you won't get anywhere. You kind of have to experiment and use a lighter touch. It takes TIME, don't get in a hurry!
Another tip, I ported with it fully assembled so the porting I did at the opening matched the porting on the individual runners. I then disassembled it again to clean everything up and blew it off with compressed air and let it dry in the sun completely before reassembling. Don't over torque the bolts! Also, use some loctite on the bolts, especially those inside holding the runners in place. I actually found two that never had loctite on them from the factory!
The one tip I will share to help get to the best port match: disassemble the intake and then place the base plate on the engine and using a curved or hook shaped scribe tool, scribe onto the fast runner openings following the edge of the runners in the heads. Then port it to match that scribe mark and blend that much new opening into the runner. It seemed to all work out for me pretty well. If you've never done it before, start slow and use less aggressive grinding media. Once you feel more comfortable you can go to a bit more aggressive media and then smooth things out more and clean things up with a much less aggressive media. Also, you are working on plastic so if you go too fast and hard you will melt it and gum up your grinding drum, if you go too slow you won't get anywhere. You kind of have to experiment and use a lighter touch. It takes TIME, don't get in a hurry!
Another tip, I ported with it fully assembled so the porting I did at the opening matched the porting on the individual runners. I then disassembled it again to clean everything up and blew it off with compressed air and let it dry in the sun completely before reassembling. Don't over torque the bolts! Also, use some loctite on the bolts, especially those inside holding the runners in place. I actually found two that never had loctite on them from the factory!
Last edited by Rich-L79; Jul 15, 2020 at 08:19 AM.
