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Multiple lithium batteries to replace single std battery?
Prior to my 377-to-418 LS3 rebuild the summer of 2019, I used a Braille B3121 battery. The shop was nervous about using that battery on the new 12:1 engine, so we put my spare ACDelco in short term, and I have a Red Top in it now. I don't want to use battery tenders, I don't want to significantly sacrifice reserve time (right now that's about 45 minutes, longer would be more convenient) or cause any reliability problems. I live in Florida which has a reputation for the heat shortening battery life. A single lithium battery with a subjectively worthwhile weight savings doesn't really cut it for my goals, but I'm wondering if you could run multiple lithium batteries (such as Shorai LFX36A3-BS12) in parallel.
Can a multiple-lithium battery design meet my goals of weight savings and reliability? Could the multiple-lithium design be moved to the rear of the vehicle without any concerns? If yes, then I'm interested in the specific parts and process to convert from the OEM battery system to such a multi-lithium system.
Last edited by JimMueller; Oct 12, 2020 at 11:55 AM.
Prior to my 377-to-418 LS3 rebuild the summer of 2019, I used a Braille B3121 battery. The shop was nervous about using that battery on the new 12:1 engine, so we put my spare ACDelco in short term, and I have a Red Top in it now. I don't want to use battery tenders, I don't want to significantly sacrifice reserve time (right now that's about 45 minutes, longer would be more convenient) or cause any reliability problems. I live in Florida which has a reputation for the heat shortening battery life. A single lithium battery with a subjectively worthwhile weight savings doesn't really cut it for my goals, but I'm wondering if you could run multiple lithium batteries (such as Shorai LFX36A3-BS12) in parallel.
Can a multiple-lithium battery design meet my goals of weight savings and reliability? Could the multiple-lithium design be moved to the rear of the vehicle without any concerns? If yes, then I'm interested in the specific parts and process to convert from the OEM battery system to such a multi-lithium system.
I tried it. Used a zero gauge wire to connect in parallel. Problem is if one battery dies it kills other one also. That's what happened to me. Ended up using a single ATX30 from antigravity
I tried it. Used a zero gauge wire to connect in parallel. Problem is if one battery dies it kills other one also. That's what happened to me. Ended up using a single ATX30 from antigravity
How long have you been using the ATX30HD? Does it meet my requirements?
You could parallel batteries or buy a more appropriate sized lithium battery.
From what I saw a couple of weeks ago when I looked for lithium batteries for my truck and didn't want any compromises, they are $9xx
Something like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/alt-12v920
If I had a more electronically simple car like a F body, especially if it was a toy and I wasn't going to be running a/c, stereo system, and all the electronics I would go with the battery darth posted. Which may also be good enough if you are running a/c electric windows etc. But I personally like to have considerably more battery than I need, but I also like to run stereo systems and **** so I usually look for overkill on the battery
As for where to put the battery, you can put it anywhere you want, you just need to run cables to it. If you want to put it in the rear get a battery box and mount it and run cables to it.
Did you ever even try the braille? I looked and it says 550 cranking amps.
I haven't tested a ton of starters but I've checked a few and around 200 cranking amps is a avg number a starter pulls, with your 12:1 I bet the 550 amp battery will crank it, maybe not as happily or maybe it wont 5 times in a row but I would give a shot to give me a baseline of what may or may not work
And if it does crank it, then you know the 8xx amp darth posted would work out, and that would be the battery I chose if I could have ran it.
I just noticed Pooter's replies. Never tried the Braille. It's been sitting in storage since summer of 2019, never on a tender. Not sure if it's still any good as a result. I just had a shop install a Mechman alternator to replace my AlternatorMan alternator on Monday. The old one started dropping voltage above 5000RPM, and the new one was advertised to support rotor speeds above 21K. But having some quirkiness with the new alternator, which I posted in a different thread earlier today.
Don’t confuse Lithium ion and Lithium Phosphate batteries - they are not the same. Li-ion is what’s used in electric cars with a very sophisticated charging system - these are li-phosphate batteries and can handle the crude rudimentary 12v charging system.
Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
If I had a more electronically simple car like a F body, especially if it was a toy and I wasn't going to be running a/c, stereo system, and all the electronics I would go with the battery darth posted. Which may also be good enough if you are running a/c electric windows etc. But I personally like to have considerably more battery than I need, but I also like to run stereo systems and **** so I usually look for overkill on the battery
Accessories have nothing to do with battery size. Your battery doesn’t power anything when the car is running. In fact, once the engine is running, the battery is just another load on the charging system just like everything else. If you’re having a problem keeping your battery charged when the car is running, you have an alternator size problem, not a battery size problem. The battery powers the starter. That’s it.
Don’t confuse Lithium ion and Lithium Phosphate batteries - they are not the same. Li-ion is what’s used in electric cars with a very sophisticated charging system - these are li-phosphate batteries and can handle the crude rudimentary 12v charging system.
Accessories have nothing to do with battery size. Your battery doesn’t power anything when the car is running. In fact, once the engine is running, the battery is just another load on the charging system just like everything else. If you’re having a problem keeping your battery charged when the car is running, you have an alternator size problem, not a battery size problem. The battery powers the starter. That’s it.
Hmm. I wonder why my electric power steering works so much better with a new battery. And my stereo systems stopped dimming my lights and losing charge until I went to better batteries. Maybe it's because they are giant capacitors that store electricity that can be used during high draw situations instead of relying solely on the alternator... maybe.
Accessories have nothing to do with battery size. Your battery doesn’t power anything when the car is running. In fact, once the engine is running, the battery is just another load on the charging system just like everything else. If you’re having a problem keeping your battery charged when the car is running, you have an alternator size problem, not a battery size problem. The battery powers the starter. That’s it.
Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Hmm. I wonder why my electric power steering works so much better with a new battery. And my stereo systems stopped dimming my lights and losing charge until I went to better batteries. Maybe it's because they are giant capacitors that store electricity that can be used during high draw situations instead of relying solely on the alternator... maybe.
Also, the battery ONLY starting the car is especially incorrect when it comes to newer vehicles (the last 10-15 years or so) where they use PWM charging and the alternator duty cycle runs up and down, cars with stop start tech, electric power steering etc etc. There are MANY situations in which a load can exceed or come close to the alternators output and the batteries retained power is the best place to draw from for a high amp draw situation, since it is a giant capacitor. Who would want to solely rely on their alternator anyway? How long do you think an alternator would last if if constantly saw amperage spikes from having no capacitor (battery). The battery dampens the high amperage spikes to by providing power when those big electric fans come on, or whatever high draw system you activate.
The battery does more than just start the car. Essentially, the battery handles large amp draws, the alternator tops it back off afterward.
In the sense you're speaking of, yes the alternator keeps everything powered while running, but there's more going on than just that.
If you know what a hydraulic accumulator is, think of a battery along those lines. It picks up the slack in high-demand situations.
Or better yet, a truck air system. Without a tank, a truck's compressor could not keep up in a braking situation.
Another antigravity guy here... the 75/78 series I have is a direct replacement for C5 corvettes... 1000 cca and you can pick it up with your finger is amazing... warranty Bluetooth monitoring and re-start with a key fob... are just icing on the cake...
I’ve been running dual cheap LIPo lithium batteries in my firebird for about a year. They were $110 for 2 about a year ago and now u can’t find them lol. They are power sports batteries and connected together and starts my turbo 5.3 from the trunk so much faster than a gold series lead acid. I put in a manual marine cutoff switch that if the car is gona sit I kill it but I had a hot start issue one day and I cranked and cranked the car like 10 times in a row and it showed so signs of slowing down. These lithium batteries have built in power level leds and I have maybe $135 invested. I bought the batteries, 1/8” pure copper plate that I cut to make the jumpers and got a marine battery strap to hold it down in the battery mount in the back of my 87 TA. I ran single 0 welding cable a year or two before when I did the rear battery relocation. I run a custom blower cam and and FB db electrical stock style gear reduction starter.
I will tell you these batteries turn the engine over very easily and much faster than the led acid. They have never needed a charge since I got them and they will sit inside my warm basement for the winter and will never need a trickle charger or anything bc of how well they hold a charge. these are 380CA each so they provide 760CA and all together weighs less than 10lbs.
I got the battery tender 4 amp LiPo battery charger which you will need for these types of lithium batteries.
the cost of the lithium setup was less than a new led acid at my local advance auto. I couldn’t imagine paying $300+ for a lithium battery...
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Multiple lithium batteries to replace single std battery? 
