Hey im new here sorry if i am asking a question that has already been asked, I have an 01 formula with slp catback slp ram air flo pac, intake, founder rear lc arms, panard bar, bilstein rear shocks, spohn 2pt sfc, tru track posi unit richmond 3:73 gears ls6 intake all new seals and bearings in rear nitto 555r's in the rear and dyno tuned. it dynoed 310 rwhp (mustang dyno) and did the quarter mile in 12.69 at 110.

I would like to add tsp lt headers Stainless steel with catted y pipe. Will this require me to replace motor mounts?

circle d 245 mm 3200 stall tc (I figure 3200 instead of 3400 as it would be easier on my car) with b&m super cool and trans temp gauge

- considering getting the tb ported and polished (bump stop mod as well), how easy/expensive is this to get done?

- considering a ud pulley (from what I've read either a slp powerbond or ati %10) and if i do get should i have tuned for fans to come on earlier?

I should mention i will be getting a fine tune done after all of this

Other then the above mentioned would i need any other supporting mods to keep my car healthy and reliable? eg would i need to upgrade my rear or fuel lines/pump or get a high pressure oil pan etc?

this is my daily driver outside the winter and rainstorms and I do drive like a bit of an animal 50% of the time. also this car WILL NOT be going to a drag strip or have engine work done (will be staying with only bolt ons), just a fun street car that will maybe see a circuit track near me once or twice a year and be blowing mustangs into oblivion .

Any suggestions, advice or general input would be greatly appreciated!! thanx in advance.
Side note; does anyone know of a good place to get this all done near me? i Live about n hour north of ny city.

 

LCA reloc brackets

 

Awesome, totally forgot about those thanx!!!

 

Don't fear the stall, if you go small you'll regret it. At bare minimal go yank/ brand ove your choice. Quality 3600 converter(or larger) it can make or break the way your car will act/ respond. A 3600+ will drive fine on the street. With converters it's one of those things that being cheap is expensive, cause you won't be happy when you went cheap and then buy the right converter later.... Just do it right up front..

 

This is what ive been told a few times now so i think i will go with the yank unless there is a better one? Id rather spend money (within reason) and do it right the first time.

 

3600 is perfectly fine on the street. Yank is definitely a good brand. I run a FTI and love it if you’re wanting to shop around.

 

I would like to add tsp lt headers Stainless steel with catted y pipe. Will this require me to replace motor mounts?
No, they work with factory motor mounts

circle d 245 mm 3200 stall tc (I figure 3200 instead of 3400 as it would be easier on my car) with b&m super cool and trans temp gauge
I've run a 4000 stall on DD for years. Just have your tuner program lockup in third gear at 30 mph and lock up in 4th at 40 mph. I drive around in 3rd until I hit the highway and then I use my overdrive.

- considering getting the tb ported and polished (bump stop mod as well), how easy/expensive is this to get done?
Don't do this, leave it stock. Porting the TB can cause weird idle issues and air flow issues at deacceleration. It isn't worth the trouble for a few HP.


- considering a ud pulley (from what I've read either a slp powerbond or ati %10) and if i do get should i have tuned for fans to come on earlier?
Keep it stock, not worth it.

I should mention i will be getting a fine tune done after all of this

Other then the above mentioned would i need any other supporting mods to keep my car healthy and reliable? eg would i need to upgrade my rear or fuel lines/pump or get a high pressure oil pan etc?
No, all of your mods are fine. Boltons and stall are plenty fun in a LS1 with an A4. Just be careful with the 3-4 WOT shift. They can blow the 4L60E.

 

"Just be careful with the 3-4 WOT shift. They can blow the 4L60E." is there away to make this less likely to happen (please don't say by driving slower lol).
Also wouldn't a 4000 stall be to high for a stock cam? I thought my highest power was somewhere around mid 3000's
and someone was telling me that if i could afford it i should go with arh lt headers instead of tsp, Are they worth the extra money?

Thanks for the advice about the tb and ud pulley, Ive been hearing that alot so will not be doing them.

 

Tsp 17/8 headers are great, I use em on most everything. And I'd go with prothane engine mounts, while your in there it makes it easy to do, since your pulling the exhaust anyway, you'll be glad you did. And yes a 3600 would work great for you.

 

I'd go speed engineering 1 7/8 headers, Yank ss3600 and a nice transmission cooler.

I'd leave the throttle body and balancer alone. maybe invest into a SSRA or chris1313 ram air setup.

 

Actually, it should NEVER upshift to 4th at WOT. At WOT it will stay in 3rd until you lift.

 

So I spoke to Don at slowhawk and I spoke to yank performance and they told me i should stick with a 3200 stall, But everyone on here (the forums) keeps saying 3600 or bigger. I feel like i am missing something here

As i mentioned i will NOT be doing engine work or fi just sticking with bolt ons and getting rowdy on the highway (maybe the occasional trip to a circuit track)

Also I like the idea of an ssra setup but wouldnt it get in the way of the trans cooler i need? And would heat sleeves for the headers be of any use or is it not worth it?

Sorry for the endless questions and thanx guys!!!!

 

I really don't know any body that has said ( man I wish I went with a lower stall than this yank ss3600) at least on a build like yours. Now I've known a couple blower/nitrous guys that went that direction cause they would (blow through) the converter. Meaning it acted way higher than rated.... And didn't really compliment their specific set up. Really 400 rpm ain't that much any way. And if you ever decide to cam it, it will just be that much better... Either way happy wrenching sir .

 

Oh and your going to replace plugs/ wires any way so yes, all you want is plug wire covers( who ever you buy the headers from will have a option) there pretty cheap really.

 

My stock 4L60E said otherwise on my previous setup cam only lol. I can't tell you how many times WOT 3-4 I did over 10 years. Funny thing was my 4L60E outlived my LS1.

My friends and I always called my 4L60E the real champ!

 

So wound out in 3rd, how fast were you going at the 3-4 shift ?

 

Somewhere between 125-130 I think. It has been a long time since I stared at my speedometer during the 3-4 wot shift.

 

Thank you for that! I had always heard, maybe erroneously, that under full throttle, it would not shift to 4th (OD).
Learn something new everyday....

 

I like my SS3600 a lot, it drives great and I have 2.73 gears. It drives the same as my old f-body that had a SS3200 and 3.23 gears. You won't regret the SS3600, just make sure you get a nice transmission cooler.

 

Might I suggest getting it dynoed at another dynometer, specifically a dynojet. Will be easier to compare. Maybe post up your graph.

I never understood how bigger stalls are not handfuls, on the street.

You have room to grow, with that trap speed. Your ET is nice however. See my sig for my times. Adding headers will probably get you there, perhaps some induction upgrades as well. Are you sure headers are emissions legal where you live ?

Based on your times, you're going to be faster than most on the road. Except modified cars, with big upgrades done.