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I'm having some continued cooling issues with my build 390ci with procharger @ 14-15lbs of boost. The engine has the stock water pump w/44K miles on it and a 160* thermostat. I have two Zirgo puller fans (16'/10" S-blade) installed on a custom make 1 piece shroud that allows clearance for the D-1SC procharger. I am currently running an all aluminum radiator that is 1 & 7/8" thick and can't for the life of me remember if it is a single row or double row. Just cruising around not beating on the car the temps climb to about 220 and I have to turn on the defrost to lower the temps. On the high way its fine, just the lower speeds 0-55mph were it gets hot.
Running Dexcool and water wetter, purged all the air pockets out.
I'm thinking it may be time to replace the water pump with one that flows more or possibly a better radiator two/three row.
I do want to keep the Air conditioner. The lower air dam is still in place, only trimmed a little that was needed to clear some piping. The air diverter in front of the radiator has been removed due to the front mount intercooler. My stand alone transmission cooler is mounted on the passenger side in front of the AC condenser.
Spent a few days going through past treads and reading. Just curious as to what guys are doing now as technology keep advancing to keep high horsepower cars cool. So let me know.
Thanks in advanced.
Ken
Last edited by ICRAZY6; Jun 15, 2021 at 01:47 PM.
Reason: Correcting information for accuracy
Sounds like you need a better fan system. Get a PWM controller and the biggest electric fan(s) that will fit. That way the temp will control how fast the fans will run.
I went digging for the correct manufacture of the fans. Zirgo S-Blade fans one is 16" and the other is 10" between the two of them on high they should pull about 4200 CFM of air.
Looking at a higher flowing water pump. Not sure if I'm ready to make the jump to electric yet.
The fans only come on once temps reach 180*. So if temps are within range they run, or if AC is turned on they will come on no matter the temperature. The Diverter in front of the radiator I was referencing is the radiator baffle shield. It normally installed to funnel the air from under the nose up through the AC condenser and the Radiator. Items 1 and 2 have been removed.
Honestly you may want to ask around in the forced induction section, I know in the past I have seen threads about cooling problems with a procharger and people have shared their experiences of what worked in there.
I would double check the CFM rating on those fans. Unless they've got 20 amp fuses and thick gauge wires, I wouldnt trust the rating. Switch to Derale 16925 pushers and you should have no cooling issues.
I would double check the CFM rating on those fans. Unless they've got 20 amp fuses and thick gauge wires, I wouldnt trust the rating. Switch to Derale 16925 pushers and you should have no cooling issues.
Pullers, thru a good shroud, are actually more effective than pushers. Nearly all production cars use pullers and a good shroud for a reason..
Yea, he needs to figure out how to fit those back in or make something like them...the air has to be directed to the radiator.
Those pieces will no longer fit due to the front mount intercooler. I also believe my IAT will rise as there would be no place for the air to flow to once it exits the intercooler.
Air is currently directed to the radiator through the nose of the car with the fog lights removed and license plate hole cut out. Then flows through the intercooler and then the transmission cooler, AC condenser, and the radiator.
Pullers, thru a good shroud, are actually more effective than pushers. Nearly all production cars use pullers and a good shroud for a reason..
I am HIGHLY aware.....I am also HIGHLY aware of space limitations on a turbo or supercharged Fbody and how to keep the motor cool on a DD street car with AC
I would double check the CFM rating on those fans. Unless they've got 20 amp fuses and thick gauge wires, I wouldn't trust the rating. Switch to Derale 16925 pushers and you should have no cooling issues.
The CFM rating is straight from their website. They are ran using the factory wiring and fuse/relay block.
I will be getting some temp readings tonight after talking to Griffin Radiators to see if its a flow issue or if my radiator is affectively cooling like it should.
The CFM rating is straight from their website. They are ran using the factory wiring and fuse/relay block.
I will be getting some temp readings tonight after talking to Griffin Radiators to see if its a flow issue or if my radiator is affectively cooling like it should.
If it gives you any idea for comparison, you can't run the Derale's with factory wiring or you'll melt the stock wiring harness. They pull ALOT of current and move ALOT of air. I've never had trouble keep a turbo Fbody cool with AC in FL when the fans were right and I always used a stock radiator.
I am HIGHLY aware.....I am also HIGHLY aware of space limitations on a turbo or supercharged Fbody and how to keep the motor cool on a DD street car with AC
If it gives you any idea for comparison, you can't run the Derale's with factory wiring or you'll melt the stock wiring harness. They pull ALOT of current and move ALOT of air. I've never had trouble keep a turbo Fbody cool with AC in FL when the fans were right and I always used a stock radiator.
So did you just do away with the puller fans and run the pushers to keep it cool? Were your fans shrouded? I'm interested in your set up and how you wired the fans. did they come on like stock or did you have to run a temp probe and AC trigger wire? Please let me know.
Not really sure I follow. Many fan vendors, especially stuff from places like Ebay/parts stores don't give accurate CFM fan flow. There are pushers that perform better than pullers and vice versa. Having done multiple Fbody turbo setups with AC and a blower setup, you really have to pay attention to detail when it comes to airflow and fan choice.
Originally Posted by ICRAZY6
So did you just do away with the puller fans and run the pushers to keep it cool? Were your fans shrouded? I'm interested in your set up and how you wired the fans. did they come on like stock or did you have to run a temp probe and AC trigger wire? Please let me know.
You should only run pullers or pushers. When I ran the 16925's I did away with the pullers. I tried pushers with pullers on cheap BS fans and it never worked as good as 2 good pushers. On a couple other setups I hacked up a stock fan shroud to fit the factory dual pullers because they move a ton of airflow. Typically with high current draw fans like the 16925's you use relay wiring harnesses and use the stock fan wiring to trigger the relays which switches heavy gauge wiring that is wired straight from the battery. This lets you use the stock ECU fan control to decide when to turn on/off the fans.
Not really sure I follow. Many fan vendors, especially stuff from places like Ebay/parts stores don't give accurate CFM fan flow. There are pushers that perform better than pullers and vice versa. Having done multiple Fbody turbo setups with AC and a blower setup, you really have to pay attention to detail when it comes to airflow and fan choice.
You should only run pullers or pushers. When I ran the 16925's I did away with the pullers. I tried pushers with pullers on cheap BS fans and it never worked as good as 2 good pushers. On a couple other setups I hacked up a stock fan shroud to fit the factory dual pullers because they move a ton of airflow. Typically with high current draw fans like the 16925's you use relay wiring harnesses and use the stock fan wiring to trigger the relays which switches heavy gauge wiring that is wired straight from the battery. This lets you use the stock ECU fan control to decide when to turn on/off the fans.
That what I thought, one or the other. When talking to Griffin they told me that my 10" puller fan wasn't helping at all if any due to the 16". Now if they were all sized they same size they would flow better.
Do you have any pictures of the set up you ran? Was there a place you found those pusher fans cheap?
That what I thought, one or the other. When talking to Griffin they told me that my 10" puller fan wasn't helping at all if any due to the 16". Now if they were all sized they same size they would flow better.
Do you have any pictures of the set up you ran? Was there a place you found those pusher fans cheap?
I think I've got my build threads in my signature, there may be some stuff in there. I just did a search for Derale 16950 and tried to find a coupon code from Summit Racing for instance.
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